ITSDEEKAY

Any plans on making one for the G500?

Looks cool..but the materials are just way too expensive.

I started collecting Lego technic 2 years ago. Based on my observation on free vs paid moc. I'd rather buy MOCs that are high quality... meaning proving PDF step by step versions and not just photos including 20 steps into one photo (it gets confusing). Because I live in the USA, most of the MOC designs are foreign to me and the parts used on the designs are either from decades ago or very hard to find on the market. This is also why I stuck with official released Lego Technic models and appreciate the designers here making their own MOCs from the official released (Unimog looks very popular to build in this community). Best of all, I'm getting into motorizing my MOCs and this is where I'm putting my money in.

Can you please do your magic and put some buwizz motors into this?

I feel like the Lego designers went on Rebrickable and took some ideas off of the MOCs there. The MOCs of the G wagon looks a lot better than this.

For me, I don't mind if all the wires don't fully fit in the deck. My original goal is to see if your set up is able to run mutiple buggy motors without compromise of damage to the motors!

Looks promising! Did you switch all the PF cables to jst in the motors? Is your rcdeck compatible with other receivers? I have a flysky.

I've been using RC components with 3s Li-Po using 4-L motors in my Land Rover and it has been working fine. It generates enough power for me to drive indoors and outdoors. Now the other problem I'm facing is the same as you. I've tried running dual buggy motors in my builds and in all occasions it would burn the PF plastics using 2s or 3s. The only scenario where I could run dual buggy motors safely is when I use the steering wheel hub with planetary gear reduction.

Thank you for the response. This is definitely something I need to consider before selecting my options.

Hey guys, I'm considering purchasing my first Buwizz unit. Comparing the 2.0 vs 3.0. Both are able to run in ludicrous mode and possibly running two buggy motors with one battery unit? With the new app unit, does anyone know if the 2.0 can run on remote control?

That's unfortunate. I came to accept that a lot of the motors and battery modifications are made in the Europe and enthusiasts such as buwizz. I found a modified RC brick control that allows to run 2 buggy motors with no issues from an Russian lego enthusiast. Again all of these are unobtainable for me since I live in the US. I'm happy enough with the power of 3s lipo batteries gives to my motors safely without burning up.

In your Falcon truck, are you using a transmitter/ESC with your 3S lipo? Kind of curious how you're running that with no issues. Yes the PF plugs melts when running 3S with buggy motors. If I soldered the wires I'm sure I'll catch fire eventually but I won't go there.

I'm glad I'm not the only one out here trying to make these buggy motors faster. I've removed the thermistor from the motors and so far, I've only melted the PF plastics and the motor still works (I just replace the cable+PF plastic part). Two models I've tried to use two buggy motors, range rover (i know its heavy) and Ford raptor. I used 30A esc with 3S and 2S Lipo. It runs pretty darn quick but at the same time it melted the PF plastic just as fast. So I went back to using 2L PF motors with 3S lipo and it works just fine. It won't be fast using the buggy motor but at least the L PF motors can climb over bumps and hills vs buggy motors with out melting the plastics. I've also tried using two ESC+transmitter to run on each buggy motor on 3s lipo. One of the buggy motor would stall. On the other hand, I use a 3S lipo with a buggy motor(thermistor removed) on a much smaller scale model and it still works fine for the past few months now.