TexasEngineer454

Can we assume the steering mechanics will be similar to the 42136 set, just larger? It's a very simple and effective means. I definitely see this as a good base to install some PU capabilities.

Hard to tell from the pictures I've seen online, but does anyone have an idea of tire size? I'm guessing same 107x44r as the 42054? Honestly if it comes in under $200USD I'm getting it. Lots of pneumatics and if it really has 4 hubs and all of the gears and such to move the claw it'll be worth it for me. Better pieces than the new Volvo 42081 too.

This is one of the coolest MOC builds I've seen! How long/wide is the finished truck? Looks loooooooong from the side.

I meant a wider axel. I didn't mean to de-rail this thread I was just offering my own experience with the rims. I had issue using them on a narrower steer axle.

I have not seen Attikas truck? I can only speak from my own experience that the defender rims have a very deep offset and required longer arms when incorporated into a steer axle. I believe this is why the original LEGO 42110 set had IFS/IRS.

Not sure what your end game is for your MOC, but I'd suggest looking at BrickController2 APP. It does have functions for setting a PU-L motor for 90degree rotations. I think you could adjust the parameters to meet your needs.

That may solve one issue and create another. The backspacing on the 49294 defender rims may bump the tire into the axle. This was an issue I discovered on my Rover MOC.

That turned out amazing! Great Job! I had noted the lacking power in the PU motors but found that using them through the BrickController 2 App improved performance quite a bit. I have a PU-L motor set in servo as my steer motor in my Rover and it does quite well with the large 94.3x37mm tires.

Four XL motors should provide plenty of torque and the diff locks on the rear and center axles are a great idea! Are you planning on a winch of some kind for the body? Also, it looks like your front axle is 1 unit higher than the rear/center? Is this by design or is it just the camera angle?

Steering hasn't been an issue, but the Rover isn't very fast either. The rim offset is actually slightly better than the stock rims the 42110 set comes with and my suspension and body actually sit higher than the stock design. The issue with the trailer hitch is that my current design does not offer any side-to-side movement. What I mean by this, when the Rover approaches an incline at an angle I would like the trailer to independently roll. Much more like an actual ball hitch coupler on a real trailer.

Greetings All, posted this in another thread but thought I'd make my own thread here in hopes of some more technical input. I kept most of the body intact and used maybe half of the original drive-train. Everything else is MOC. I used parts from 42124 and 9620R to finish the RC swap. MODS -1 PF L motor runs the steering -2 PF L motors run the AWD system (1 to the front and 1 to the rear) -1 PF M motor runs the winch -Fully independent All Wheel Drive -Added tow hitch to pull the trailer I built (I'm open to better designs for a hitch???) -Lego technic 4 port HUB programmed through BrickController2 working with XBOX controller -Swapped original tires for 94.3x37mm (purchased used from local LEGO re-sale store) A few items I have left to finish 100% -Install differentials: The Rover has a solid axle in the center fed to each tire as the differentials I have (62821a) kept popping loose when crawling over obstacles. Part of the criteria for this build was to keep the IFS/IRS and AWD system. The problem was the suspension geometry offers quite a bit of camber and articulation, but it was pulling the axles out of the differentials. I am considering swapping in the newer closed style (65414) differential. Has anyone with a similar design had this issue before? Currently have 12 tooth bevel gear on the motor into a 20 tooth gear on the drive axles. This seems to give the best speed to torque ratio. -Redesign trailer hitch: I am using the same basic design as the John Deere 9620R but the side-to-side movement isn't very good. Does anyone have an idea for a better design that offers side-to-side as well as arch movement?

@2GodBDGlory, have you tested the carrying or towing capacity of the MOC yet? I only ask because I really like the rear axle set up and think it could be incorporated into a larger scale build for optimal towing/carrying. Also, did you notice any steering issues at high speed with the locked rear and open front differentials?

To answer your question, yes. It should be better when approaching an incline at an angle. Torque only seems to be an issue for the older style differentials 62821b in independent suspension rigs. I am currently running my WIP Land Rover (full independent suspension and all wheel drive to four corners) without any kind of differential and have noticed the better torque for crawling. Turning and handling isn't very good though. So there are some trade offs.

This looks like it'll be an interesting build! I do have a few questions and comments. Are you planning on powering each axle with it's own XL motor? Are you thinking about adding a working winch? I'd guess the rack and pinion would provide better control but the locked differential and low gearing may make turning at low speeds difficult. You may want to consider an independent suspension front drive axle and solid rear axles. As long as the rear axles can float independently of each other this should make off camber crawling a bit easier.

Greetings All, I wanted to share my version of the 42110 Land Rover. I kept most of the body intact and used maybe half of the original drive-train. Everything else is MOC. I used parts from 42124 and 9620R to finish the RC swap. MODS -1 PF L motor runs the steering -2 PF L motors run the AWD system (1 to the front and 1 to the rear) -1 PF M motor runs the winch -Fully independent All Wheel Drive -Added tow hitch to pull the trailer I built (I'm open to better designs for a hitch???) -Lego technic 4 port HUB programmed through BrickController2 working with XBOX controller -Swapped original tires for 94.3x37mm (purchased used from local LEGO re-sale store) A few items I have left to finish 100% -Redesign front suspension: too much sag, larger tires scrub against fenders at full turn when compressed or off camber side-to-side -Install differentials: the Rover has a solid axle in the center fed to each tire (sorry no underside shot) as the differentials I have kept popping loose when crawling over obstacles. Currently have 12 tooth bevel gear on the motor into a 20 tooth gear on the drive axles. This seems to give the best speed to torque ratio. -Redesign trailer hitch: Does anyone have a good design that offers side-to-side as well as arch movement? Fixed the picture links. Thanks to @pleegwat and @2GodBDGlory

That maneuvering at 1:32 in the video was great! Great job on the build!

I looked through your album and I see the issue you are talking about. The body mounts stick out past the front axle far enough to cause a problem when crawling over obstacles. Would it be possible to fix these mounts? Or else remove them completely. It looks like you have the 107x44 tires. I wonder if going to a taller tire would help fix part of the issue.

Would more ground clearance fix this? The solid rear axle would limit the amount of height you could get from this build. Best solution maybe to convert to AWD.

Do you mean the car doesn't have enough torque to go up steep inclines? Or it doesn't have enough clearance to go over a steep crest? I am having similar issues with my RC MOC and am curious as to how you plan on working around this problem?

Hard to tell from the upside down chassis but it doesn't look like there's a drive axle going to any of the wheels? I assume this is more of a free wheel spin model? Either way, the scale and suspension look amazing! Definitely adding this to my wishlist.

Looks good! Any more pictures of the front end steering/suspension? Seems to hold together in the video really well.

Does anyone know what scale it's built to? Curious if it will be the same size as the 42110 Defender? I really like the right hand drive. Great attention to detail!

Independent Front Suspension and Independent Rear Suspension. I swapped my control for a joystick type throttle (using XBOX controller and BrickController2) and the acceleration seems much smoother now.

My current chassis uses IFS/IRS and two motors to power the AWD. I have noticed the front steering geometry binding when off-camber. I am wondering if I switch to a traditional axel design similar to your bronco if I could fix this? I understand the Zetros is fairly slow. I was curious if the low gearing coupled with the torque of the motors caused any issue during initial acceleration, but I'd guess the AWD design negates this concern? Did you have any issue with this during early design/testing?

This is a great build and has given me a great deal of insight for my own RC build! I do have a couple questions for the expert OP @gyenesvi? 1. How quickly does it accelerate with the current (3:1?) gearing? Do you have a top speed? 2. Have you noticed any steering issues when going up or down an incline? Movement from the front axle when doing so? I am part way through chassis building for my first Lego RC MOC and am trying to learn as much as possible from the great creators here!