gyenesvi

Yeah, that's exactly the problem. And moving to a specific step is also very cumbersome if you have a large number of steps, and also if you forgot to create a new empty step before selecting parts.. But let's not derail this topic too much.

Grouping parts into submodels while building the model certainly does help with managing parts (such as hiding) and later making instructions, but ordering parts into steps while building would be pretty hard for me at least, since I don't know the proper sequence until I see the bigger context (especially in heavily form locked builds, that can have a long reaching consequence in terms of steps). And unfortunately Studio is lacking heavily in this respect, it does not have good commands to order parts in the main building mode (such as moving parts to previous/next steps, only in instruction builder mode, where you cannot add parts), so this sucks, and hence this is one of the most cumbersome part of making instructions.. I have already filed issues about this long ago, but they never bothered to fix it.

I like the idea of a size-limited non-branded non-supercar contest. Just make sure off-roaders are also included :) I'd like to build something inspired by small Suzukis, they have a cool retro vibe (for me).. And I like when a model flows well with available lego parts instead of trying to hack parts to match a real-world shape. That entry looks pretty cool, never saw it before!

Actually, older sets did that exactly. But then you have the dilemma of whether to take them off at some point. I still have some pieces of my 8880 with the stickers applied to those multiple parts (the mirrors), I never wanted to take them apart, just in case I rebuild it... I think Lego got rid of this solution because of that, and while it looks worse, I kind of understand it. But I'd still do a sticker over multiple parts in a MOC :)

This is looking awesome so far, really curious about its functioning with that mini pneumatic system!

I liked the video, it's nice to hear both of your opinions about these topics in one discussion, even though things have been discussed elsewhere before, not everybody have read thoset. And of course I suppose the video is originally posted on YT, this thread is just to draw people's attention to it, so it's fine here as well (though agree that a simpler title is enough here).

Thanks for the info. I guess it applies to throttle as well then if the temote is just on-off. Next question is then whether the servo itself is capable of proportional control, if the remote is replaced later on to the new one. Wonder though how precisely such seemingly fast car can be controlled with on-off steering.. Guess I'll have to wait for reviews to see more.

Just came across this new Cada set, just the RC off-roader of my taste: https://decadastore.com/products/cada-wildcat-atv-c62006w For $99, I am quite tempted to give it a try. If anyone has tested this, please let me know. Haven't really found any reviews yet on YT, just this promo video. It seems quite fun to play with. Wonder what the electronics is capable of. It seems to be the new system with non-PF plugs. Wonder if the steering servo is proportional. Anybody knows that? The tires also seem quite nice (75mm).

Did you add round 1x1 tiles on top of the half pins? Those give them more weight and help them get stuck less often. But it's not a critical thing, so no big deal even if it skips a few strokes.. Glad you like it btw.

Some progress in between two holidays.. :) I have added the fake engine. It has to be a really flat one to fit under the hood, as there's not much vertical space, only about 1.5 studs. I made a V6 engine that relies on the 112 degree connectors and half pins. Those connectors just fit into the 7x5 frame, the piston rows cannot tilt sideways, but is loose enough to let the main shaft spin without friction. Due to the use of the half pins as pistons the whole engine is not super smooth, but good enough, doesn't jam, I have built it in real life to test it. Here it is inside the chassis; it just fits in between the shock mounts (tested that as well, tight fit, but okay). The other thing I did is the bull bar and the winch. I wanted to make the mounting of the bull bar similarly triangulated as in the original, which uses angled liftarms in a smart way. On a smaller scale, angled connectors can be used similarly. The winch is functional with a ratchet mechanism and release lever (also built it in real life). Also, I have realized that parts that hold the top are not DBG (as I thought based on the official instructions) but black in the original, so I have recolored them to black. I have also given this a try, but not so many thin liftarms are available in dark blue (the key 4L is missing for example), so I could not even build a structurally weak version of it. Also, the thin stripe would be different from the rest of the stripes (especially the cross stripe on the tail), so I think it would not end up any better than now, so I won't pursue this any more.

Glad you like it, and of course I am okay with someone else shrinking the same model, as long as it's not a copy of mine :) I can see your chassis is quite different, though I wonder how different you can make the body at the same scale.. Do you already have plans?

Exactly :D I am actually thinking of sacraficing some Buwizz motors to try it out some time..

Sure, I know, I have used them, but they have a very bad form factor, difficult to integrate into (smaller) AWD vehicle, without putting it into the middle of the cockpit.. Having those motors in a better form factor would be great. I heard that the motor itself can be hacked into the L motor..

Yeah something like that, and indeed the axles probably need strengthening in that case (or just dropping the portal setup). But let's not run forward too much. First the manual one :)

Thanks for all the positive feedback, glad you all like it! I'll surely provide the digital, probably even free instructions. I am already also thinking of motorizing it after the contest, since it turns out to be my favorite scale :) I did also think about that, will give it a try, but it will definitely be harder to make it hold together. Now it relies on the 4x2 beam (and the black tubular frame), which I cannot build out of half liftarms. But maybe first some hypothetical renders to see if it would actually look better. Though I think it's already better than I initially thought.

This is like the most interesting and surprising news of the year! Totally blown! Thanks TLG! As much as I'd like to believe that the design of @allanp inspired this, I tend to think that the timespan would have been too short to develop and test it. I'd rather believe that they had been experimenting this for many years, and now the time finally came, though they may have been pushed by the negative feedback on the Ferrari, the ideas here on EB and also the developments at Cada to finally turn it into an actual product. I could also imagine that they did plan it for the Ferrari but it was not yet ready. I was wondering why it is first introduced in a motorcycle and not a car. Sure it's a good way to convince many fans to buy the motorcycle even if they are not interested in the subject otherwise (like maybe myself).

Thanks, I have seen all of these solutions, but so far only tried some of efferman's printed parts. The mount for the brushless motor seems like an interesting thing for sure!

I know because I tried that too recently, and so I was surprised to find them on lego.com accidentally, so ordered about 20 them quickly (same goes for the orange pin-pinhole connectors, also very useful but rare). I guess it's because they are both only used in 1 or 2 sets recently, the McLaren being one of them.

Great choice here, used to be one of my favorites as a child, curious to see how you manage to preserve the functions!

Cute little build so far, curious how it continues! BTW, 1L liftarms are available in orange (cheap now at lego.com), can be good to fill the gap on the A pillars.

So you also ended up with the theme that you are best at :) Nice choice, I haven't even known this model existed! It seems we are working with exactly the same downscaling, using the same pair of tires (rear ones for you). I agree you should go with the ballon instead of the tractor.

Thanks, glad to hear you like it :) At first I tried to build the nose as in the original, one vertical layer of blue and one white beams. That looked too much, so I removed the white one to get the scale right. But you are right that I should keep the white one instead. As for the springs, the original has yellow springs, which are not available in soft version (but the red is). But maybe I'll put in the yellow harder ones just for keeping with the original. As progress tonight, I have made an overhaul of the chassis to raise the axles by half a stud to get it more into scale. As a side effect, I also cleaned it up and strengthened it structurally. The original has many chassis parts in red, so to keep it closer I also recolored some parts there. Furthermore, the drivetrain joints had to be replaced due to the raising and changing of the angle (shortening of the axle), swapping out the U-joints to the new long sliding CV joints to account for the non-full-stud axle length required in this configuration. Here it is with the full body in its current state: I think the height is better this way, and with the red parts, it does look closer to the original.

I wonder what counts more; keeping the original functions, or scaling smaller.. I see a lot of people going really small, where many not so visible functions like drivetrains and suspensions will have to be left out, while others reduced to a bare minimum, almost like 'adjustability by hand'.. Starting to feel like I am not brave enough with the down-scaling and dropping functions :D

Glad you like the choice, well I never saw it in real life, so this will be my first time :) Here's some progress, I worked on the body last night and got it more or less done for the general shapes and main connection points. Indeed, the paneling from the Ford GT is perfect for this scale. The original model does not have an opening bonnet, instead a big part of the body can be tilted, I guess in order to have access to the electronics that is deeper in the chassis. For a manual version that does not make much sense (and would be hard to do at this scale at the cost of weakening the structure and obscuring the looks I guess), so I went for an opening bonnet instead to be able to access the fake engine. Here it is mounted onto the chassis. I think the stance is a bit too high though, so I'll try to lower it (raise the axles) at least by half a stud. The front is still missing the which mount, and of course the internals need to be done as well.

Ok, thanks for the info, I see it now. Compared to the factory hub, the mounting is indeed a bit better for allowing the liftarm directly. Doesn't that weaken the holding of the female CV joint end though? Or the bearing takes care of holding it well?