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Two sets of Ladda’s would still cost more than two Znter batteries and that’s before the cost of a charger (which is less convenient). True, the train motor will easily derail at somewhere around power level 75 with the Znter. But for lower speed shunting, the consistency is nicer with a constant voltage.

NiZn is probably the best drop in solution but expensive if you include the charger. If I could borrow a set, I would do a comparison with the Znter.

The battery cradle with 6 AAA cells is 80 grams, the Znter battery with the Veroboard is 38 grams. The Znter battery is smaller and you could ballast the cover or leave the cover off and lower the box by one brick. Philo also has a graph showing the how voltage affects rpm.

I believe so. They have a low voltage cutoff and an active charging circuit. Lygte-info carries out very detailed tests on many charging and battery related items and mentions no safety issues with them https://lygte-info.dk/info/BatteryDisassembly9VLiIon UK.html

There are two main reasons LegoDW. Cost: I paid 12.48€ for two of the Znter batteries. The clips and Veroboard should could a couple of euros at most. 12 750mAh Eneloop cells would have cost me 30€, plus I would need a AAA charger. Voltage: a) Rechargeable NiMh AAA cells have are rated at 1.2v. 6 * 1.2 = 7.2v. A Locomotive with fully charged Eneloops with run slower than with Alkaline or Lithium. b) A NiMh and Alkaline battery (made of 6 cells in series) will rapidly drop from 7.2v and 9v respectively as you begin to use them. This results in your locomotive running slower and slower. The Znter battery will always output 9.5v. In the comparison above, found here, The smaller 400mAh Znter can be seen delivering 9.4v for 300mAh. A 9v alkaline battery from Ikea starts at 9v, drops rapidly to 7.8 and is then at 6.7v by the time it gets to 300mAh. (I realise this graph isn't a comparison of Eneloops/6*AAA and the Znter but it does represent the voltage drop well, regardless of capacity) On the other hand, Capacity: The Znter is rated for 600mAh but I imagine testing would show 500mAh. Eneloops are rated for 750mAh, so in theory the Eneloops should run a train for longer (although much slower for the majority of the time).

Today I made a quick and easy adapter to run my Powered Up hub from a lithium battery. Information for this project came from Philo and Lygte. The battery: The Znter 9v LiIon battery is rated at 5.4wH. I choose this over the ZIPPY Lipo that Philo used because: It can be recharged via Micro USB It has a constant 9.5v output which means train motors should run at a constant speed regardless of charge level It is available on AliExpress, I can post a link to the seller I used if allowed. I cut a piece of Veroboard to fit the width and height of the AAA insert. Then I soldered a 9v battery clip to the columns that touch the pins inside the hub and scratched away the copper in the middle. It took me a couple of attempts to find the best holes for the clip wires. And I added extra solder at the bottom to push against the pins. The battery and Veroboard fit tightly so no extra padding is needed to keep them in place. The result: I haven't had time to do much testing and I only have a single hub so I can't do a side by side. The hub powers up and works as expected. This could be a placebo but I feel like the train pulls better at low speeds and don't loose as much speed through the corners. This may be because lithium batteries handle high loads better than alkaline so the voltage don't drop when the motor is working harder.

The blue horizontal support should be directly above the vertical ones, set back below the white/grey roof. Ah yes that would be good

They wouldn’t allow me to have the reddish brown tiled ledge Which panels? What for? I agree the bricks are too thick but I want to keep the brown ledge at the bottom of the opening.

Thanks Selander. I tried both of your suggestions. Less supports does look better.

I'm working on an open summer wagon. The prototype has an overhanging roof with a horizontal blue support running under it. I've used jumpers on the end windows and on top of each vertical support to centre a 7w roof. Then I've used jumpers to fill in the rest of the horizontal support between the windows. Is there a better way to do this?

Amen to that. Yes, but at least sets generally have a good resale value. I'm generally seeing postage costs between 7€ and 14€. I'm adding any stores with postage above 10€ to my filter list. That's my problem, I'm trying to think objectively. Thanks again everyone

I agree Alex, I need to see if I get the satisfaction of actually building and running the model. Phil and Zephyr, thanks for the tips, I'll keep those in mind.

I'm new to Lego and it is my first and only collecting hobby. While I enjoy putting together a MOC in Studio, I agonise over optimising the build and trying to order from BrickLink. I live in a smaller EU country so most of the of the suggested carts from Bricklink are international and the postage can easily be half or more of the cost of the order. Free shipping from Lego.com is only for orders above 55€ and we only have Pick-a-Brick, not Bricks and Pieces. I'm am happy with the design and I can afford to place the order but I guess I keep asking myself a) is it really finished and b) is this design worth the cost. When did you decide to order the parts for your first MOC?

McDiesel, try this link: https://web.archive.org/web/20180821133535/http://www.moc-pages.com/user_images/80135/1478540833m.lxf

lgauge.com have forked and posted an update of BAP https://lgauge.com/article.php?article=trains/gallery/articles/bap

Thanks Zephyr, that's exactly what I need. Do you also add a plate below the 1x2 technic bricks to help strengthen the assembly?

I've looked on Flickr and Eurobricks but I've not been able to find any examples of simple single and double axle, Technic/ball bearing trucks. I just want something to replace the standard wheel assemblies. Without having a set in my heads, I can't compare the height so I'm unsure how many plates are needed to match the standard wheel assemblies & couplers.

@Sixpence, are you still running these? Did you make any changes?

Edit: Wrong thread

What parts did you use for the side railing?

I'm still working on this, learning new techniques and finding new parts I've also started work on a passenger car, 'Kubko': Although in reality, it's not wider than 'Danka', I designed it basically 7 wide to get two rows of seats in.

Is there a Powered Up motor model for Stud.io?

I made a 5 wide roof but the jumped plates needed to attach it raise it higher than I like. I've also extended it by 2 studs to better suit the proportions and filled in the undercarriage a little. I'm most unhappy about the way I've attached the upper lights.

A 6 wide roof was easy, but I haven't yet been able to workout a 5 wide one

Amoreternum, are you talking about these hinge bricks? https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3937c02#T=C I'm having trouble imaging exactly what you mean, although I'm sure a 5 wide roof would look better