P McCatty

Likewise - I use mainly Stud.io, then export & hop over to LDCad for the flex parts before re-importing. I really love the old school look & feel of the UI. Stud.io does have some functionality with flex parts, specifically the rigid hoses. I played around with this when I did the RC MOD for 8437 Future Car. It's really touchy & I much prefer LDCad. Going slightly off topic I wish Stud.io would fix the size guide text in the instruction maker. You wouldn't believe how tedious it is to use images (of text) as a work-around.

Thanks! The RC valve is very clever & well done. Yes I used LDCad for all the flexible components. There was a bit of a learning curve but in the end it is fairly intuitive. Modeling all of the hoses & wires turned out to be both tedious & fun at the same time (if that's even possible)

This is the part that interests me the most (with the discontinuation of PF elements). If the proportional control works with Buwizz (and by extension, BrickController), then their pro series servos are really attractive. On the BrickElectronic pdf there wasn't any torque data for Cada or Wange so it's a little tough to directly compare the motors. The Bluebrixx XL motor looks to be a bit more powerful than the LEGO version, but they said they can't ship across the pond

I'd be VERY interested in this. From the literature I've seen, the Bluebrixx motors are more powerful (slightly lower torque but MUCH higher rpm). With proper gearing, one can get a lot more out of them than the standard PF motors. I'm considering getting a few to pair with Buwizz 2.0. As of now I'm uncertain if they can handle ludicrous mode, but I'm tempted to give it a try.

Thank you! To be honest I have no idea how much time I've spent on it. I just know it was a LOT. I've only recently come out of the dark ages, picking up a few medium sized models here & there to see what this studless thing is all about (yes it's been THAT long). I actually started tossing around some ideas & basic prototypes over the winter. Then I switched gears to work on a few smaller MOCs before getting back on track in the spring. In the end, the build was really the fun part. I tested & retested everything, built up sub-sections & prototypes, tore it all down to access that one part that needed to be changed, etc. This process is actually very useful because naturally the sub-models sort themselves out, & the "method of assembly" comes to the forefront. To put everything together as a "project" took a TON of work. I had to learn LDCad for the flex parts. And as you can see, there are a lot of them. To that end, Philo is an incredible resource. Once I sequenced the steps & sub-models, I put together the display build seen above from scratch. After that it's final testing & tweaks while filming/playing with it. Once satisfied, I started annotating the instructions. This is quite tedious & not as much fun, but had to get done. Stud.io has it's quirks so I had to be inventive, finding various work-arounds. Finally, for the obligatory video the filming & editing took a fair bit of time as well. Totally worth it

Thank you This was one of those that "got away" for me so I threw everything & the kitchen sink at the recreation. It was more challenging than I thought to find quiet secluded spaces to film, especially in the summer when kids are off school. During one session, a little one came over when I was unpacking. She turned around & screamed "IT'S MADE OF LEGO", then another 6 or so came running. I didn't get much done in the way of filming (GoPro & Gimbal on a stick with a controller in the other hand while trying to answer questions & avoiding all the little feet in my shots), but it was very rewarding to share it & get their feedback "OMG it's so sloooow" . Fellow maniacs in the making. I actually almost gave up on the manual mode. Gearing down the steering & routing it in the frame was a tedious, iterative process & brought out some colorful words on many occasions. In the end it turned out to be useful because it can roll freely & would be an ideal candidate for a big towing job. It's too bad the Servos are so expensive these days. From what I've seen, as of now alternates aren't very good at achieving the 15 positions either. The shocks were definitely necessary due to the "boom crashing down" phenomenon. There is a tiny bit (almost imperceptible) of slack at the upper ranges but I eventually got the linkage to dampen virtually all of the crane arm movement. They also keep the arm elevated (maybe halfway) after the inevitable pressure drop if not in use for a while. In any case, that's what the bar at the rear bumper is for . The front suspension is a basic 4 bar parallelogram made with 6L links. I used a 9L link as a panhard rod for lateral positioning. It might be visible in one of the pictures - I also protected the ball & socket connections from popping out by integrating them into the frame & using additional bracing. I'm making a prototype for the drive at the moment. It might not happen right away due to other priorities. I'm using the C-Shape Pivot Frame (92910). Less links to work with & I might be able to get more suspension travel. So far I've also got a positive caster built in. I tried to get kingpin inclination on the portal hubs to offset the massive sweep but there just isn't enough room for this scale, & I eventually moved on to the planetary hubs like you said (great minds & all that ). Hoping those newer CV Joints can handle the torque. I can't take credit for the Pneumatic Servo. I first saw it HERE by FT Creations. Working out the trig, the relationship is (surprisingly) pretty linear. The trouble I had was that the axle kept falling out. I first redesigned the guide to work with a frictionless pin, then added a 4L axle with stop to secure the connecting 2L liftarm. This was very reliable & I feel it might have worked out if the motors were upright instead of sideways, but one of them disengaged during testing (1 in 1000 type thing) & I went back to the drawing board. The 5L liftarms now eliminate that possibility altogether. I also considered geared options as shown by Sariel. The 8-24 pairing can't be stacked since the 24T gears would mesh. The 12-20 pairing slightly exceeds the range of the switch & is harder to achieve fine control.

LT 8868 Claw Rig MKII Aptly named "The Godfather" by Blakbird, I had a go at this one a few months ago. LOTS of BL orders, testing, prototype failures, clicking gears, back & forth, partial builds, disappointing tear downs, broken parts, more testing, and now here we are. Initially the idea was to remain on scale, but the end result turned out more like a big brother. The thing is an absolute unit at 3 kg & contains almost 5 meters of pneumatic tubing. Let me know what you think! If there are any questions I'll be happy to answer. RC Drive 6 x 6. Buggy Motor geared at 17 to 1. RC Steering. PF Servo RC Turntable. PF M Motor with Worm Gear. RC Compressor. PF L Motor driving 2 x 6L Pumps. Dual Air Storage Tanks. RC Pneumatics. PF Servo & Pneumatic Switch assembly. Dampened Crane Arm movements for fine control & modulation. PRV Function to automatically shut off Compressor. Powered by 2 x (Buwizz 2.0) or (2.4GHz Module) Live Axle Suspension Front & (Tandem) Rear. Ackermann Steering Geometry. Positive Caster Angle. Working Cab Steering Wheel. Opening Cab & Crane Doors. Technic Figure compatibility. Fully customizable Crane counterweight compartment (88 cubic studs) for better stability. Disengage drive & steering motors for manual locomotion. Working HOG on roof. Instructions HERE Credit to @Philo for the original digital file on LDraw & @functionalTechnic for the Pneumatic Servo idea. Spoiler (Video): Spoiler (More Pictures): Spoiler (Digital Renders): Universal Turntable Drawbar Trailer (6 in 1 Suite) While ripping around with this Truck, the first thing that became apparent was that I had nowhere to put the objects I was picking up, since the Crane occupies the entire rear section. That's really where this Trailer idea came from. The most straightforward execution came in the form of a 3-Axle Turntable Drawbar set-up, using the built-in trailer hitch. I also went back to basics by keeping everything manual & making the design as simple as possible. After developing a logging variant, I quickly realized that there were many other possibilities. I ended up with 6 attachments in total. Chassis: Springless Pendular Suspension Chassis: Rear Axle Suspension 2 Modes (Hi/Lo) Chassis: Rear Axle individual Lockable Parking Brakes Chassis: Adjustable Drawbar Lift Stand with Caster Wheels Chassis: Heavy Duty 3D Coupling. Chassis: Jackknife capability. Chassis: Easily Adaptable Universal Chassis. Chassis: Trailer Hitch for stacking options (road train). Logger: Ratcheting Tie-Down Straps x 4. Logger: Cross Section 75.5 sq cm. Carriage Length 31.2 cm. Dumper: Max Tipping Angle 45 deg. Dumper: Max Tipping Capacity 1.25 kg. Dumper: Bed Containment Capacity 2,893 cubic cm. Dumper: Manual & Automatic Gate Lock Options. Flatbed: Platform Area 511 sq cm. Flatbed: Ratcheting Tie-Down Straps x 3. Flatbed: Storage Box Capacity 131 cubic cm. Flatbed: Storage Box Dual Access Doors with limit stops. Tanker: Synchronized opening Hatches. Tanker: Hose Reel with Nozzle. Tanker: Storage Box Capacity 63 cubic cm. Tanker: Storage Box Access Door with limit stop. Tanker: Safety Accessories (Fire Extinguisher, Pylons). Tanker: Access Ladders at front & rear. Tanker: Sticker Sheet included for Hazard Symbols. Loader: Platform Area 501 sq cm "19 wide". Loader: Ratcheting Tie-Down Straps x 6. Loader: Automatic Bi-Fold Ramp. Loader: Ramp auxiliary Support Stand. Loader: Ramp Security Lock. Loader: Loading Winch. Skeleton: Compatible with “20’ International Container” by HUWI. Skeleton: Forklift clearance underneath. Skeleton: Adjustable mounting width (17, 18, 19, 20 studs). Skeleton: Container Retention up to ~ 30 deg tipping angle. Instructions HERE Spoiler (Video): Spoiler (More Pictures): Spoiler (Digital Renders):

In my experience, this has not been the case. I've had it for months now, tearing around the house at least every other day.

I made RC modifications to some past favorites for those of you who remember the 90s, also featuring some cosmetic/structural/functional improvements, as well as the real OG Technician. Love to hear thoughts & feedback 😁 8437 Future Car (Sahara Blaster) Features: 1. Technic Figure Compatible 2. RC Drive. PF L-Motor geared at 1 : 1. 3. RC Steering. PF Servo Motor. Upgraded turning radius. 4. Powered by Buwizz 2.0 5. Independent Front Suspension. Solid Axle Rear Suspension with flex. 6. Reinforced Wings. Improved range. Free Instructions HERE 8858 Rebel Wrecker (Big Foot) Features: 1. Technic Figure Compatible 2. RC Drive. PF L-Motor geared at 1 : 0.555. 3. RC Steering. PF Servo Motor. 4. RC Winch. PF M-Motor with worm gear. 5. RC Lights at front & above cab. 6. Powered by Buwizz 2.0 7. Independent Front Suspension. Solid Axle Rear Suspension with flex. Free Instructions HERE

I'm not sure how much space you have available, but I think that having dual compressors and (or) gearing it up for a faster flow rate may help solve this problem. Cool concept. Solid build so far.

Regarding the rear Live Axle, I had a go at this earlier in the year as part of an RC MOD project & this was a "must have". I posted (free) instructions if you would like to take a look. I imagine adapting it to the odd studless convention would be a bit easier.

This is good. REALLY good. Totally blown away.

LOVE this! All time favorite. Can't wait to see how it performs. I've been working on something similar, but not quite as true to the original as your model. Well done.

Thanks for creating this app. I might have missed it in the previous discussion, but is there a way to adjust the zero offset for the PF Servo Motors?