hrontos

Very nice video and a really first class woodworking. I like how you finally managed to build the band saw and how nicely you managed to pretend it can really cut the wood. Could you, please, share more details about the model?

Hehe, I would not say that. There are really many great entries that better fit the competition idea. But I am really glad you like it. Yes, that's exactly the principle how it works. Very simple. All the gears are there just to be able to wind up pullback motor by a key and not by pulling.

Thank you. It's a bit fast and running time could be a bit longer, but as I said, the pullback motor can accumulate only little amount of energy. High speed at least makes it more adrenalin, because you never know if it falls off or not. I know, it is a crazy and may be a bit off topic entry into competition, but it was fun to build and my kids liked to play with it, so I enjoyed it also. Thanks to EB for organizing this mini contest. There are many great entries.

I finally managed to find some time and uploaded a short video of the model in action: For this video I modified the model and added a small yellow lever to have a comfortable way to start the model. LXF file reflects these changes.

May be I do not understand the point of the Hall of Fame correctly, but I like the idea of having a topic with a list of good models. If you put level too high, you will get a useless 5 models topic. Each of the models in the Hall of Fame is interesting by something - either nice design, good functions or a good usage of number of limited parts or even original first attempts to create something on topic. I do not want the Hall of Fame to be a set of models where each has to be at least 5kg, 7000+ parts and 10 motors. I would like to see many models which look like designed by a professional designer or TLG. Even smaller ones. Because it is not easy to make even a small model professionaly.

There is also may be a problem that top and bottom propellers "steal" the air each other. What if you put all propelers on the top with 90 degrees offset? It looks like the pin should be able to hold both propelers. What if you put it with some support structure on a kitchen scale? Will it show 40g less when the propellers are spinning?

To avoid the communication/management problems, what about trying something with well defined interface - like wheeled/tracked bases similar to the one of 8043 and various superstructures (digger, drill, ...). Or some truck chassis with various "superstructures" - flatbed, dumper, cherry picker, crane etc... Or skid steer loader and different atachements for them. Or tractor with many different accessories. This way also less experienced builders could participate without feeling that more experienced one redesigned completely what they designed.

Hinges are related to parts, which are actually assemblies of more parts (like minifig arms on minifig body). The books are simple parts in real life, not assemblies, so it is very unlikely, that they will make it as assembly. Making it closeable as a single part would make the part fall into "flex" part category (corresponds also to real part behavior). Implementation of flex parts is much more complicated a require more effort. So simplest is to close it and leave it as a closed book.

If you are asking if it is buildable, yes, it is. If you are asking if the model would be playable, I would say, no. At least not by hand. It is quite difficult to achieve middle position of the clutch. In your scenario at each moment only one clutch on each input axle can be engaged. This makes it difficult to play with. And I am not sure if you can use more than one function at a time (to be more precise, functions has to be grouped, which makes the model a bit more tricky to design). So it can be useful, but probably for some specific application in combination with Mindstorms, where engaging/disengaging clutches can be programmed.

This truck is really great. Very nice and compact design. I like it. The working suspension is exceptional in this scale.

The use of pneumatic in this really nice. It reminds one of those "egg" diggers, as my son calls them. I think you captured the shape quite well. I wonder what would be price per piece for such set. For me it would be good way to get some pneumatics.

Thank you guys. I am glad you like the idea. I don't know, what is proper English name for this beetle. According to my knowledge, it should be ladybird, but in the North America it is called ladybug. Latin (binomial) name is "Coccinella septempunctata" - seven-spot ladybird (ladybug), C-7. LEGO set having a latin (binomial) name is quite crazy idea.

I like it. The white/blue color scheme is great for a plane. And you nicely used all available 200 parts. This part count limit makes combining smooth design and functions quite tricky.

I would like to see it's reaction, since it's a bit oversized ladybird. I will make to video to show it in action. Pullback motor accumulates only little energy, so it makes only 3 or 4 attempts to fall off the table. It has also fallen several times during testing, but the body is quite sturdy and it always only looses head, since that's the weak point.

Thank you. I hope not too much off topic creation. Yes, the torque produced by the pull back motor is really very high and motor normaly unwinds very quickly. There is still a room for improvements and optimize the gear ratio to get longer run times. It is not unwinding quickly, so I do not expect any dust, but finding longer run time would be nice. I already have made modifications to improve running capabilities and "not falling of the table" feature.

Dear all, inspired by an old times toy I have create my entry for the MINI Contest.It is a ladybird that "never" falls of the table (quite adrenalin with a brick build version ) . Model consists of 200 parts (including the brick built key).Features: 1WD differential (a bit crazy feature for a ladybird) pullback motor unfoldable wings will not fall of the table (hopefully never) LXF file - pullback motor and one rubber band is missing there since they are not available in the LDD. Here is image of whole mechanism: And finally a video of the model in action: I hope you like it and it will at least inspire you to create also some crazy creation for the contest. Thank you. Martin

It is really a picture for picture replacement. This means, that if you define, that decoration with number N should use your custom picture, it will apply to all bricks with that decoration, no matter how many times it is used. Moreover, the replacement is clearly visible on the to of the POV file and that means, you can copy it from one file to other. It is not necessary to do it again and again for each of your files. Of course,it works only if the replacements should be the same for all files. Preserve the decorations replacements from the pov file also in cases when you make only minor changes between renders in the lxf file (like change of the camera view or minor brick changes).

The price for these seems to be too optimistic. Google for 18650 to check what the stated capacity means in real and what is the experience of others with these cells. There are quite big differences between brands and some of them have very poor real capacity. To stay on topic: I wouldn't go over 9.6V to prevent damage to motors and IR receivers. Make some tests with the battery you already have and you will see if it makes sense to buy other or increase the voltage by the regulator.

Chrome or any "polished" looking parts need something to reflect. This means, that if you render it only with standard lights, it will appear as gray. Since your lights have only let say 40% intensity, they are not pure white but gray. It is just like when put small mirror in front of big white paper and look at the paper being reflected by the mirror. Since it is white, whole mirror will be just white. If you will photograph it by camera and crop all surrounding environment in picture editor, leaving only paper in the mirror, nobody will know, that it was mirror, since on the picture it looks exactly like the paper.

This shrink amount is in brick size units and it is exact amount which is subtracted from the brick size. LDD2POV declares also ldd_part_scale variable, which is now declared like this: #ifndef (ldd_part_scale) #declare ldd_part_scale = 0.99999; #end You can try to define this value at the begining of the POV file. This value is relative, not in brick units. So 0.99 means that each brick will be 99% of it's original size. This approach for "bevels" by shrinking is good for larger models, but on close-up renders it will still visible, that edges are sharp and not really beveled. Enhancing mesh and generating fillets on it is demonstrated for example here. I did not find sample algorithm. I found only some 3D Max or Blender plugins, which are written in some script language using capabilities of these tools. So it is not low level enough to rewrite it for POV-Ray. But if anybody has experience with this, it would be great to cooperate on such algorithm. Current beveling in LDD2POV is based on operations with solid objects in POV-Ray which are well supported, but "difference" operation is slow on renders and that's why beveled models are so slow to render.

This rendering looks really great. The lighting and materials you used look realy realistic.

After editing an include file, restart the converter or edit it without converter running. Windows caches filesystem data and when editing while virtual file system is active, it results in invalid filesize info and therefore some crashes.

Put there an axle first and then bushes on the axle and it will fit without problems.

As a first atempt, try "Don't bevel transparent bricks". But they will look different. If they are not very visible, then there will be no visual difference in output quality.

My suggestion is to use transparent PNG. This means, make the area of decoration that is supposed to match brick color transparent. And it will work for any brick color.