SaperPL

Well, it's something you need to learn how to use. You need to use submodels and assemble small things, otherwise the snapping is annoying. Make submodels and then assemble submodels, otherwise it'll be snapping all around with each part separately. I know that it could be done differently, but I guess it's also theoretically less steps/commands than what I'd have in mind/what I know from solidworks. Maybe other lego CADs would be better for you, but I only know this one well.

I thought the EB was supposed to be to adults or something like that? Or am I missing something :P It's not about drawing. Go download bricklink studio: https://www.bricklink.com/v3/studio/download.page And play around. If you don't have money for bricks, this is still something you may learn to use. Note that 3d isn't going to tell you if something works physically or not. Anyway it's not about drawing 3d models yourself but building it with existing bricks that you pick out from studio bricks library. It's not like actuall 3d modelling software, so don't worry.

My take on trailer coupling - just a concept for now, but hopefully I'll get an occiasion to use and perfect the design based on it:

Not sure if you've got money to spend on specific bricks, but my approach is like this: I prototype the mechanical part first iterating between studio and physical model and when it starts to work I start to figure out the looks in studio to know which parts I need to get. It's still more expensive than buying sets, but you're getting exact parts that you need. It's an expensive hobby, but this approach to design works for me. You just need to learn to use virtual design, otherwise you'll waste ton of time on iterations with limited parts you have on your hands at the moment.

You just need a goal and some practice, but feel free to check out the rest of my free instructions :)

No, it shouldn't be, delet dis xD This is prone to damage those pins easily, I think.

Comparison with the John Deere set:

mwinkler built this truck and shared the photos:

As in AND and not OR. My reasoning here is that In either of those scenarios we'll end up with trucks which again is pretty common theme for a MOC. So maybe forbidding the trucks explicitly should also be considered or explained as a part of the "no car" rule?

30 mm tires, like the ones in mini claas xerion. By wheel I mean whole package of rim and tire, I wonder why often the wheel rim is called a wheel in studio, huh... Oh, that's interesting. Any RC limitations? Manual or whatever?

Am I blind or is there a thread or post about the next contest already somewhere? Is the "something in here" waiting to be decided or is it hidden for the sake of everyone having same chances? Are new suggestions still open for debate? How about a contest about Speed Champions cars made in Technic, at specific scale? Not necessarily remaking original set cars as there are also tons of awesome MOCs at the scale/style, so not a "studless remake" kind of contest, but something like miniature TC18 on 30 mm wheels for example.

Thanks! Try to build them or my other MOCs from my free instructions on rebrickable if you have the bricks :)

Cab tilt limit and steering knob on the cab done: Cab needs some mirrors and maybe I should see if I can cut down on the parts anywhere to reduce the weight if possible. After that the rest is the fifth wheel, rear bumper and lights, and maybe fenders if possible.

Can you explain what you mean here?

So after finishing my sport car model, I wanted to figure out if the chassis can be used for a truck as well, and it seems doable: The chassis is almost the same with the seat attachment area shaved down and with cab attachment points at the front: I figured out some pretty cool tricks including using the wheel arches as a front grill (so potentially a car model would be a B model of this model)... ... and angled wheel arch mounting with pin and ball pin on one side. The pin is pushing it up from the inside, the ball pin is holding it from going up. I don't have a holding mechanism for the cab yet, but I need to figure out what to do with the rest of the model because it's imply too light to hold the heavy cab angled I'm still not sure what to do with the HOG steering knob - should it be there or should it be transferred to the top of the cab when it's sitting in driving position? I feel like putting it on top may feel weird if the base is not heavy enough while staying at the middle of the chassis means attaching any trailer would mean no access to the steering. This having more parts, while still using most of the parts of the sports car model, could be an A model while the sport car being a B model could get some additional static pieces like dyno station for example with the panels and liftarms that were required in the truck.

I just checked and if you set the 4K on Hero 7, then the zoom is disabled and you're stuck with wide angle. The zoom is effectively made by shrinking the area of the sensor to the middle, if I understand it correctly, so you won't have a zoom in with 4K on this.

I'm using GoPro Hero 7, but I have to say that it's not perfect really. First of all, the 4K is in wide angle (fish eye?) and not linear view so it's not really good for shooting this kind of stuff. I'm using 1080p mostly on it. Secondly ISO to shutter speed is graded in a way that you really can't tweak brightness/cut out white background properly and it's either overburn or too dark in a pro softbox with dedicated LED lighting. You can check my videos to see effects, but I end up with a lot of overburn videos because I'm not yet ready to spend my time figuring out what should I upgrade to. Thirdly the screen lies about the brightness the camera registers, so the outcome is a bit different overall and tweaking live is a problem. I think that the newer ones that allow for wireless connection may be better because you could be connected to your PC live to see it properly even if it's at lower refresh rate. Fourthly I can't see on the screen whether the focus is correct or not so I end up moving camera away and zooming in, which isn't ideal, I know I'm losing some quality because of that, not to mention time wasted if I figure out afterwards that the shot is out of focus. What I like about the camera being 240 Hz is that you can do a shot on a moving camera and slow it down 4 time to 60 Hz like this here (should be a timestamp where required): It works well for those if you do a fast movement and slow down the capture rather than try to move properly at real time speed. I'm using something like this: the roller, not camera, but shorter. You get the idea. The issue with this is that it requires some space, big background and good lighting. And here you'll see that the shots are slightly overburn yet the background is still not cut away properly. Overall not recommending going with GoPro unless you've got a plan to handle the issues mentioned here.

Thanks for sharing the model, I wouldn't go through all of the steps in instruction to build in in studio, it'd be too much work. I did it once with senna set and it's painful to look for parts and jumping through instruction pages like this :) For the new model there may be some excitement, but it's a time consuming chore, so thanks again for making it when the set was released.

Really cool model. It always amazes me that there are people that can think out of the box and squeeze so much in such small structure. It looks like you can't fit a finger in there, that's how tight it is Is there any chance for you to make photos of the bare chassis? Without the body on it? Or is the construction too tightly integrated with the body? Do you plan on making some video to show off the suspension?

I made some comparison to car transport set thanks to @JunkstyleGio's studio model: Hopefully it explains the size well. Seems like Suzuku Cappucino would actually be a good size reference for this car in context of car transporter set.

artemisovsky was pretty fast this time around and already built it and shared photos on rebrickable

Well, thanks. The chassis may seem perfect in comparison to previous iterations, it's still has the shortcoming of slightly reduced turn angle, but for a manual/static model is okay. The rear axle is slightly overusing this specific 3L wheel attachment piece, so it could be improved, but I wanted to have both wheel and differential fixed rigidly in place. The body on the other hand has a lot of quirks and it's only to show what can be done at this scale. We could have slightly different finish of the body like from the original car transporter's carried car, how the mustang GT500 looks (I actually ripped of ideas for the front from that set), or something like @dickylaban's corolla: But the core point here is that Lego could do a lot better with models at car transporter scale (this model is even smaller and has full size engine and doors + hood and trunk opening), and we get models like corvette ZR1 and the GT500, so in that sense I think it's a perfect example to prove this point :)

Interesting. What about a ratchet locks that make it so that it first does a wheelie/thrusts upward at rear axle and the front axle is constructed in a way that once it lands back, the second batch? It might be interesting.

The propeller launcher video is actually stating that you can build it having the set, which IMO is not true because you need two same panels and not opposite ones for the propeller to by symmetric... As for some ideas I'd be thinking about: 1) someone on a discord server that I'm on had an idea of using the pull backs as energy storage for the vehicle (or anything) exploding. So making a mechanism that makes panels all over the car be thrown away when the bumper hits something and releases the spring tension. 2) something like trebuchet/balista could be interesting 3) If you have two of them, make a ramp and a locking mechanism that will unlock first one to drive towards the ramp and the second one to be unlocked when you're entering the ramp for additional boost right at the ramp 4) making RC model that somewhat manages to use those pull backs as a nitro boost storage. It would be cool to either have mechanism to slowly wind up it on its own, but it seems complicated. Option to have few of those for two or even four "charges" could be nice, but again it seems like additional complication. 5) making mechanism for the tank cannon with something like this

Sorry for digging out the old thread - is there anyone who perhaps has the studio model for the set that @JunkstyleGio shared? Bricklink studio doesn't allow downloads anymore and I wanted to use it for some visual comparisons, but the lxf file is all messed up in studio.