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2GodBDGlory

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  1. 2GodBDGlory
    I bet some AFOLs are having an expensive day today!
  2. 2GodBDGlory
    Name: Plymouth SuperBIRD Description: This model was meant to transform a car into the most believable airplane I could. In the end, the car turned into the famous Plymouth Superbird because of its convenient shape. The functions included: -Rear-wheel-drive with a PF M-motor and micro V8 piston engine -Steering with a PF M-motor and working rudders -Front independent sliding-pillar suspension -Rear independent dual longitudinal link suspension -Manual flaperons -Transformation powered by a PF L-motor, including: -Width contraction with linear actuators -Nose "pinching" -Center roof lowering -Jet engine deployment -Wing deployment More images at: https://bricksafe.com/pages/2GodBDGlory/transforming-plymouth-superbird
  3. 2GodBDGlory
    Probably either this thread or the Generic Building Help one would be reasonable. Welcome to Eurobricks!
  4. 2GodBDGlory
    Take a look at this thread; it should have plenty of info for you!
  5. 2GodBDGlory
    Nice job! That makes a big difference!
  6. 2GodBDGlory
    My recommendation would just be to search up this model on Rebrickable.com to see if it's on there, but otherwise I don't know.
  7. 2GodBDGlory
    Looks like they're bringing it in line with the new mold for the similar part (whatever it's called). At least this one didn't have a bar hole to lose!
  8. 2GodBDGlory
    Or maybe the AT-AT quarter gear wheels?
  9. 2GodBDGlory
    A buddy and I threw this set together at his place today, but he didn't have any of the 24112 part that sits on the rear axle between the pullback motors. Therefore, we had to improvise! We put a 16T gear in its place, and replaced the 3x5 L-beam that is part of the catch with this assembly: Not having built the stock version, I'm not sure if this is a modification that others would like to try, but for what it's worth, we didn't experience any of the issues of jamming that Sariel described in his video, so maybe it could be worth it! Also, we came up with a super-simple three-piece mod to provide a space for the removable lever to be stored in the car, requiring only two 1500 pins and one 11214 pin. The lever slots into the 1500s and rotates down, and then the 11214 is slid over to lock it in place. (We tried using a bush-pin there, but it caused rubbing on the half-stud-offset front axle).
  10. 2GodBDGlory
    Amazing! The accuracy of such a complicated machine is very impressive!
  11. 2GodBDGlory
    Hmm, I've got three thoughts about that: 1. I personally usually use universal joints on the top half of the half-shaft, since they can't come apart. New HD CV joints would work well, too, if they fit. 2. If you want to fine-tune the length of the axle further to keep it tight, you could try using some of the old toothed half-bushes in various combinations, because two of them meshed with each other are a little less than a stud in length. 3. Likely this is just a trick of the eyes, but when I look at your suspension setup, it kind of looks like your upper suspension link is a half-stud above the CV joint rather than a full stud. If this is correct, causing the CV joint axle to not (always) be parallel with the suspension links, it's length could be changing throughout the suspension travel, giving it opportunities to fall apart. Hopefully something here helps!
  12. 2GodBDGlory
    Thanks for the information! I'm glad to hear that Lego motors hold up to the peak 12.5V of the 3.0!
  13. 2GodBDGlory
    I'm pretty sure that's not the only vehicle with a ten-speed. I believe that may be the only 10-speed transmission in use, but it is seen in a number of Ford and GM longitudinal-drivetrain vehicles, including F-150s, Mustangs, and (I'm pretty confident) GM trucks, some Cadillacs, Camaros, and maybe large GM SUVs too. As you say, though, there isn't really anything worthy of a 1:8 supercar set... As for building challenge, I think the easiest way to build a Lego 10-speed gearbox is to build a 12-speed on a 3x4 working principle and then just ignore two of the gears!
  14. 2GodBDGlory
    This is looking to be one of my favorite entries!
  15. 2GodBDGlory
    Very nice model! It is crazy complex and good-looking for the size. As for the steering, I really wish Lego would make an opposite-pitch worm gear--it could be so useful sometimes! And to think they could have done it easily with the 3L and 1L ones released more recently--or even when they redesigned the slots on the standard one!
  16. 2GodBDGlory
    I've got a question for anyone with a Buwizz 2.0 or 3.0 and a multimeter: At full charge, what output voltage do you get when measuring from the contacts with a multimeter? I know the nominal voltage is 11.2, but I'm curious if the full-charge voltage goes much above this. The reason for my question is that I am working on building a custom 3s Lithium battery, and at full charge I'm getting a voltage readout of 12.3V. More power is great, but I'm not sure if Lego stuff will be happy above 12V... What I'm hoping to hear is that Buwizzes are in a similar range when fully charged, thus implying that my battery is safe to use.
  17. 2GodBDGlory
    Agreed. I don't see the justification for having a motor of almost identical output, but much larger size. Sure, once in a while, the Xl could be helpful, but if Lego is already investing in a second motor, they could at least have made it reasonably different! I am still intrigued about the fact that the Xl was not used once in any of 2021's three PU sets. Could this motor be being discontinued? Even if not, I'm happy to see as few of them in sets as possible!
  18. 2GodBDGlory
    Odd! I always found that transparent ones had less friction! Either way, I'm very happy about these friction stud-pins. I'll no longer have to do workarounds, such as sticking a flick missile part into a 2L pin!
  19. 2GodBDGlory
    Looks very striking! I like seeing those System-oriented motors used, since I tend to forget about them!
  20. 2GodBDGlory
    I think that U-joint thing came up in a Defender thread, as a possible culprit for gearbox roughness.
  21. 2GodBDGlory
    Alright, thanks! I'm not sure when I'll be looking into that project, but I'll let you know if I'm looking for more detail.
  22. 2GodBDGlory
    1:5, eh? Sounds like an easy gear ratio away from 1:10, which could be extremely useful for whenever I get around to making V3 of my base-10 mechanical calculator! I don't understand it either, but it looks very cool!
  23. 2GodBDGlory
    My first thought is to just mount the spoiler on some vertical axles that would allow it to slide up and down, and then control it off of a 3-4L beam connected to the output of the motor, which would push/pull a link to move the spoiler up/down. You'd have to add a slip clutch if you were using a normal motor, but since you've got the EV3 one you should just be able to program it to move the required number of degrees.
  24. 2GodBDGlory
    Yeah, that's really about it, and I don't expect that would happen often...
  25. 2GodBDGlory
    You can also jam a 2L axle extender into it, which is strong but questionable.
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