thekoRngear

I have some old black pins as spares. Will try with them.

Two not too serious problems: 1. The right white panel of the hood is a bit off in the front compared to the left one. I checked the white panel and adjacent parts but nothing seemed out to me. 2. The front right stabilizer does not always close properly, a gentle push is needed. What could be the possible reason? Does it have something to do with the bottom hinge mechanism or the linear actuator inside? Has it also happened to anyone else?

I reverted back to the 2L-connector-3L setup for the axles. After finishing the build I did not find any friction in the drivetrain. Replaced some half bushes with newer ones with a few changes on the top steering. Kept the build as original as possible. Another possible reason for keeping both the 8L and 4L ends open maybe is to keep the steering as stress-free as possible because after some times the steering of a Technic set (depending on the gearing and setup) becomes a bit hard, i.e., 3L with stops (for the car attaching bushes) can sometimes be seen pushed out a bit. Edit: in my unit I have found one of the two plain 1x2 plates has a sticker (labelled 1 and 2) applied on it. I had no idea which side that plate to put on LOL.

Awesome! All the swappable engines look really cool!

Thanks! I now have become a lil' lion from a kitten! Used a 3L brown axle with stop and also if you remember the 8L from the other end has its end one stud bare. Used a 7L axle to replace it. After rechecking I have discovered I had forgotten to flip the axle pin connector perpendiculars to upward. Shame. Corrected them. And then moved the drivetrain axles slowly only to find the olden 2L connectors' tabs were indeed getting contact with the top edge of the perpendicular connectors. Took OP's "fix" as a caution by putting 5L yellow axles. Howevr, if the driving axles get slipped out of the wheel-hubs as pointed by Frequenzberater I will revert them back to the classic connectors with 2L and 3L axles. I kept the 1L full bush though. Here is the current state of the build. If anyone points out any mistakes (or concerns) I will happily correct them as the final parts are getting their ways sooner into the final assemblies, hopefully. About OP's 3rd point, it was another pain in the back to make them aligned as per many builders. It was super tricky to make them as straight as possible. Unfortunately that segment of build was done one and a half months ago and I cannot remember the trick.

Learnt another thing from you, thanx. There is one funny thing- as I am currently in the building process of 8880 I eliminated the top steering wheel (that rubberized split axle wheel) with the 42128's black double bevel gear. Just out of curiosity, I have put that rubberized wheel on top of the 42128 and it feels even better. As the rubber is slightly bigger and slightly slippery it gives a better feel, lol.

Sorry to drag this old thread as I was having the same issue as OP where the 2 crown gears were not producing smooth experience. Replacing them with 2 24z gears just completely eliminated them. I am currently in the middle of the building process where I just have mounted the dashboard and, there I see the 4L black axle happens to stick out beside the steering wheel. I checked and found for the remaining building process that black axle will remain sticked out by full one stud. Looks totally odd. Is it left in that state for a reason? Might sound stupid but I wanna know if I put a full 1L bush will it hamper the steering function? This set is a legend and therefore I am bit hesitant even for pawing on a few modifications 😛

Good to see someone has mentioned the Z06 as well. The recently announced one has very cool opening/closing of the back/convertible that if Lego ever implement it correctly it would be one of the best features in any Lego supercar. In general, I think Lego definitely has some interesting (fancy) mechanism for this year's UCS car to wonder the mass what might or might not have been discussed here.

The interior looks awesome. The overall looks is impressive. Would be very cool if it gets added to Rebrickable

42145- I sense a C(rap)+ Volvo like truck (or another type of construction set) is incoming with real improvements in some aspects that we all would like to see. 42143 could be something in the form figure of the cement truck (or even the 42108 cartoonish crane). And I will also be happy if one or all of them turn out to be completely opposite (with some upset as well 😛)

I have a similar feeling. Zetros is not the only official set with quirks. There are others but were less fortunate as they did not have this case

Interesting. The Zetros is going to have upgrades in terms of stability in the hood and doors (besides the battery hub). Apparently no upgrade info about the rear axle (bashing the wall test failures).

You can count me in. The steering is superb! I played with it a lot yesterday. Sariel complained (lightly) the top steering requiring a bit more rotation but that's fine with me

I did not get as lucky as you. Even after removing the 3L Beam with yellow warning sign the black tube refused to get raised. So I had to remove the LBG connector hub too and ensured the rigidity stays as firm by adding some extra parts. Since the black tube is not in the centre it gets a bit stuck by the left blue 7L beam, a slight push towards centre and it's all good. The tow bar problem is now gone. I actually did not understand what AllanP already told was the solution. As for the Engine, well, I did what is more than a solution. I made a 3 cylinder piston engine with the good ol' engine blocks right when I was building it as I knew some folks here and there had problems with the crappy stock engine. @amorti's tweaks are great. The crane now rotate slightly faster. I also (accidentally) made the gear swap to the 2nd axle lol. The axle is now raised and lowered a bit faster with no collisions or such.

I have the Cada version and it is there

As amorti said the original has locking door mechanism and it works pretty well on my set

@allanp What the!!! It does lift up just fine as if there was no resistance or such. So what should I do now? As I slid it again through the blue beam it gets stuck again @anyUser great observation. I will definitely check if that same happens to me

That's an eye-pleaser! Edit: the front wheel axle seems a bit out

Guys, I have this strange (or embarrassing) problem that I found just after I had built the Tow Truck. The tow bar does not go up when pumped. Well, it does go up, just a little. A gentle push by hand and it goes upward. Today I disconnected the tow bar structure by removing the yellow 5L axle only to find it just goes down and up smoothly! Connect the structure and it apparently struggles to up the tow From my observation: 1. takes the same amount of pumping to make it go down and go up 2. Going up just a (literally) little slower than going down Has anyone faced this problem? Is a significant strip down required? Below picture is after I have pumped the pressure pump to make it (the yellow thin cylinder) go up. You see it just went up smoothly.

The recent official sets by Grohl give us tough hell. They are no straight bad, but full of genius attempts and controversial designs and raised eyebrows. I guess the video will have a follow up once it reaches higher number of likee sub and comment which many reputed youtubers ask for. Our resident folks here at EB already managed to come out with mods as well

16t and 24t gears, chain, a cute Engine. All those in this tiny piece of art. Technic is not dead yet!

Wholeheartedly agree with that, but seems highly unlikely. My intuition says the parts count will exceed 4000 and the gearbox might even get more complicated (which jb70 will fix anyway )

Nvrmind

Since we are not that far away from the Toy Fair London (which is still subject to Covid situation) I think the next 1:8 will have a 10 speed gearbox? 8 speed has been done for the last two models. The last one was polished on the Sian. A 10-speed does not seem to be that bad- in terms of building challenge.

Trust me this one single MOC is enough to consider buying the Senna Set! Finish looks awesome. Would just have added a diff in the rear and boom! Everytime I see a MOC out of the Senna it just gives me that impression as well