thekoRngear

@Ngoc Nguyen That last one is savage! The 16t gear will now rotate most possible smoothest way [when the frames are finally fully attached/mounted]! That's the spirit man! Keep going on!

There has to be a 1:8 scale car as 2026 marks the 10th anniversary of UCS Car lineup. Ah, I become nostalgic, the Porsche, the wrong gearbox sequence, the dedumos and jb70 gang here in EB. Good ol days, the 2026 set for sure wont have such amount of buzz, not even a quarter I think!

No disrespect or disagreement with what Howitzer said, I also do not mind System bricks being blended with Technic sets. The designer(s) just have to have proper sense of using them inside/outside/front/back/top wisely. I am amazed by the use of system bricks used in the recent 42210 Nissan Skyline set and it does not bother me at all. In the back and on the dashboard they are used/mixed cleverly by the designer. They are eye-pleasingly good.

Great! Sadly this year prolly we won't be seeing any C model of an official Lego Technic set from you?

The King of Off-roaders is back! Watching that jeep crawling is a pure joy!

Cannot wait to see it in its full glory in video!

Noted! And thanks all. The steering problem is fixed as I settled with leftover #6536 perpendicular connector. No need for 5L lift-arms or the 3L ones as they look a bit occupied. The whole chassis with front diff, steering, crankshaft AND Engine pistons moves smoothly 🙏🏻

Okay, I will try with all the options above. Luckily I have some 7L Lego Flipflops. Though they are in DBG, I am gunna use them!

Big Update: Guys! We have slayed the beast! No more rolling resistance! No spread out/toe (or tow) out! The wheels just don't want to spread even if I push my finger slightly towards them. I assembled the whole chassis and the car moves just as fine as it moves backward; feels totally natural. Sadly, we cannot declare victory just yet. @Zerobricks @gyenesvi This happens. If I gently steer it still happens. My heart sinks. I think there was another reason why Lego used anything but with 3L underneath the gear rack. There is big empty space in between I used a black 5L beam with different orientation just for testing and it, just say, works. I have 2x 5L flipflop beams. And also 2 pairs of 5L lift-arms. I have detached the front chassis before one final modification finalization. This is the top view. When differential is mounted challenge increases. Howevr, I will have no problem keeping the car RWD as did the 2F2F movie guys. That will be a defeat tho' This will be the final version when everything is hopefully [properly] assembled including always on AWD. So guys, help me out one final time to mitigate the slack inside the gear rack movement!

That's mahoosive! 🙏🏻 I'll do that and let ya know guys!

Okay, I will do it too and let you guys know but, can you please explain/walk me thru as to how to extend the steering arms? Is it changing position or so? I'm kinda lost in there! Also, guys I have two of those Audi Q e-tron parts (72008 Technic Connector 2 x 2 with 1 x 1 Cut-Out with Axle Holes) in black. Just in case...

Thanks 🙏🏻 I'll try them. Interesting...

Indeed. So guys, here it is. The final steering rack solution which is actually a brilliant crossover by @Timewhatistime. I wanted to use 3x3 T beams because they are a life saver when it comes to steering rack. On the other hand, @Stereo came up with using 7L beam connecting the both end of the gear rack. Now we got both! It works so well Looks good too Look out Lego. You may have a team with a lead designer but, here, at EB these guys just selflessly poured in their highly efficient ideas that work so well. Now, another elephant in the room is the Engine. I won't ask for continuous help. The Engine, as I have built it officially in the beginning, is very wobbly. In fact, is the 2nd worst Engine after the 42128 HD Tow Truck. Is not liked by people over Technic Group in Facebook. Situation worsens as soon as the less liked pistons are put on those camshafts. Now, take a look in the official designs Since we have modified the steering rack we cannot use these connectors in that fashion. Moreover, I have seen the blue gear does not need one more stud support as they did with a 5L axle with stop. The foundation to mount the Engine from the front side [top to bottom] is very cartoonish. They stick out a 3l brown stop axle, put on a red perpendicular connector. Then a blue 2x1 thick liftarm sits on it. Provides poor support for the mounting. The 5l stop axle would tend to stick out from the bottom🤦‍♂️ Keeping in mind all these, I have come out with this solution. I used #44809 red part. Even after this, as you can see, the red beam tends to stick out a bit, but it stays that much as more and more time the car is moved. I also want to inform that the red beam's end point [connected by the 3L black bush pin] would also tend to stick out due to poor choice of using tan 4l axle they have used on the dashboard mounting. I have removed them with 3l hybrid pins and it does not stick out at all. Personally I think poor alignment of front and rear blue biscuit parts are to mainly blame for these issues. Cannot put blame on the 11L beam all alone. Also, note that I still did not install front diff yet. I want to finalize this design. So, any suggestions and insights are much appreciated.

Gotcha! On it!

Guys, first of all thanks to all of you 🙏🏻 I have taken all of your advices and the result is that resistance is now hugely reduced; to the point where I would not panic and create a thread at EB. @Timewhatistime You meant this, right? Sadly, the 1/2 grey/blue pins cannot fit thru the pinhole of the ellipse part. As you can see the cross axle hole takes up space for that [ironic] I think so but, you had me lost there. I am not expert at customizing the steering arm lengths. A bit more elaboration could be useful! Then, I got another idea. I used couple of spare [Cada] T beams and they seem to be very very stiff with this setup. By far, it's my favourite one as it seems efficient and looks good. I can use the red 1/2 pins and the black pinhole connectors provide additional stiffness. However, I could not use it as I cannot seem to understand how to make up for the length adjustment as the tow ball steering arms are 4 studs long 😥 @Stereo you mean this, right? Interestingly by the time you posted this I already worked with 7L flip flop beams. Luckily I got bunch of them and it seems no brainer. I used 3 of them and now am using it as final solution. As you can see, this reduced the friction significantly. For experimentation purpose, I have modified the Engine setup and also removed front diffs and the double bevel Now, if I slightly push either of the wheels with my finger, as you can see, either one or both can still spread yet, the resistance is nowhere near as bad as it was with the official steering rack solution. See, one is straight while other is spread. Both are spread. Sorry for picture bombing. That's all for today. At this point, I think as veterans/experts here already pointed out it is the 4L ball joint steering links that just cannot seem to keep themselves straight. I take a look at the parts and to me they don't not seem defective or deformed or any such [maybe I still can be wrong given TLG's Quality Assurance has fallen]. As the steering rack solution is now stiffened up, they behave better but, they are not supposed to spread at all [okay, maybe a little bit]. Any more suggestions and insights can be helpful.

@Timewhatistime thanks! I'll update soon

You mean this, right? I have removed the wheels and with a little pressure, as you can see, it is possible to spread out. Sadly, I think the red perpendicular connector is not a strong guard as the black parts underneath are only directly connected by one point to the steering gear rack. I swear, when I was building the car I just followed the instructions, just like any casual builders; no in-the-process overthinking or modding The set is new, the parts are in all good condition. Maybe, it is a problem/limitation which was planted. Many may get away with this. Some may fall for this. I unfortunately happen to be in the latter group Also, take a look at that all hole 2L beam. They can be disoriented too! Also, the red beam holding the Engine pistons has a very loose attachment to the chassis. The front axle parts had too many challenges for Lego designers I think.

Sadly I don't have such dimension tyre's spares. But I did use the tyres and wheels [of the set] randomly. Those are used in the rear axle and the rear axle runs just fine. I am at my wit's end. Also, please don't keep doubting whether my set has faulty parts are not. It is a new set with no faulty parts. Period. Technic sets have problems that cannot be observed immediately. Sets come, reviewers review them. Only thru extensive play they become visible. For example, the 42126 Ford Raptor's rear axle is a joke. If it is moved frequently the wheels can fall off. The 42156's [the same designer behind Nissan Skyline] front axle diff has very weak left shaft connected by a 2L cross axle connector. Nobody talks about that.

Hi, To my horror, when the entire chassis/mostly built car is driven there is a significant rolling resistance from the front axle. When the chassis is driven backwards it's completely fine! This is annoying because when the body is put and the Engine is installed the resistance becomes more visible. The Engine refuses to cycle the pistons move smoothly. I have to push the car hard to drive it forward. I have seen YouTube reviews and videos and none seem to have such bizarre rolling resistance. Please note that, I have tested it when the car was in completely stock build. No full time AWD or other mods. I detached the front axle part from the chassis and removed the engine and crankshaft setup and it still happened. I tried completely removing the differential and double bevel gear, and it still happened! I rotated the front axle without the wheels on the hubs and the differential moved just fine either way. Problem becomes noticeable when the wheels are connected to the wheel hubs. Below are the pictures and a video I noticed when the front axle is moved forward the wheels are spread As said above, when driven backward the wheels are in normal orientation and no resistance Just in case, here are the pics of the front part of chassis/axle. From the top and bottom: Also, from side: Kindly help me out!

I am mezmerized by the densely crafted looks! A truly marvelous MOC with tasteful choice of accessories

Man wayyy bettah than that excavator crap! Set "deserves" to be talked about and discussed in this theme for its building techniques and functions!

TBH, that kind of super strong shocks should be used inside/in the middle of the suspenstion control arms. Howevr, Cada is ambitious, Lego is tired

Same. I built Cada Ferrari Supercar (2020) with black 3l pins. Had faced no problems. With Lego cars becoming more closer to the shape of the real ones blue pins just keep maddening us

Indeed, although improvements been made over the years but, they aint no groundbreaking. I think they got sick. Personally I think the whole Technic design team should be sent to vacation for at least three months while the execs straight to hell Then we can actually expect something better!