SteamSewnEmpire

The problem with the mercury comes down to the rear truck - and has always been the rear truck. Not that the front truck has amazing play, but I regard the six degrees that it is capable of to be a minor miracle, given the shrouding. The rear truck can manage just one degree of turn. Even if I were to incorporate the lower rear shrouding into the truck, it would become this massive, chunky thing that would require the cab to rest directly on top of it in order for the clean symmetry of the shrouding to be maintained (in straight track). And, even then, I'd have to stop using the rear set of bow tiles (because they would, themselves, interfere with any such bloated truck swinging). I don't think it's a problem that has a clean solution. I would either have to massively sacrifice on appearances, or performance (or do something wild, like make the rear truck completely non-functional [I don't like this]), or make the locomotive the James Whitcomb Riley, and then move the truck unprototypically close to the drivers (this would likely work, but would look stupid). Another option might be to try to assemble ultra-fine wheels for the rear truck utilizing something material like modeler's styrene. This would probably give the rear truck the same play as the front, albeit with unforeseen tracking issues (and durability). I need to build the thing first, then figure out of there's any hope of running it on (massive) curves. Thanks. My perspective: the wheels are already going to be Schupp's - I'm "cheating" with custom parts no matter what. I don't see a problem with going a bit further. *Edit* Actually, I lied. I forgot that I bought Schupp's medium thin wheels. So the rear truck has about 4 degrees of play. Lol. Still wretched, but whatever.

It was... and it wasn't. I think the Century was, honestly, the more difficult of the two. Plus, I am cheating a bit with the Mercury by boring my own headlight hole (I don't think there's any way NOT to do that, and use this set of parts; I really had to choose between "legal" Lego practices, and what produced a good shape. I chose the latter). Thanks, though. As an aside, I have - after studying numerous photos, train artwork, and models - concluded that the color of the original (the first run) Mercury was actually dark grey... so I guess that's the color this engine will be. It's pretty sad, because I think it looks sexy as heck in the blue. But grey with pinstripes was really the NYC's "thing" - about the only loco they ever did that wasn't that color was for the Rexall Train.

Okay, just spent the past 5 hours gutting and completely rebuilding both this loco and the Century (and I do mean gutting - they were in a lot more pieces than the photo below). They both now have identical motoring schemes: 2x large PU motors powering a single shaft leading down (I dummied up the PU motors by using PF L plus a technic stud to the rear). The first and third drivers and powered, while the middle will be driven by the rods. Optimistically this new arrangement will be powerful enough to meet my needs: While the Mercury will likely never have clearance issues sorted (even if I fix the rear truck, the front is impossible to redo in any manner that looks good), I am confident that the Century can run on at least some Lego track, since it has pretty generous clearances for both trucks.

I'd really like to see you do the coach, too. Also, considering the work you've put in, have you considering making it able to run via some custom wheels, power sets, etc? Even just making it a static display where the wheels turned would be a really neat visual.

Wow, that's gigantic. I like the trailing truck a lot. How do they get through tunnels without everyone dying?

If your engine is the one I am thinking of, isn't it 10w? I mean, there are probably a lot more bricks that it's having to lug. The most coaches these engines would ever pull is 3 - probably more reasonably 2. Coaches (with interiors) are like 1,200 parts per - I couldn't justify more than three. I'll see if I can get two Ls into them tomorrow. It will take a ton of retooling, and I am too tired for it now.

Done, thanks again. I actually believed these are the PU equivalent of a large motor, though (they are the "middle" size). Should I go back to the other gearing arrangement?

Does anyone know if this kind of dual motor setup will work with PU?

I've designed two locomotives recently, and I'm having a hard time deciding which one to build. Such a hard time, in fact, that I am considering assembling both. However, I'd really need to know before I start parting them both out what I could expect them (just in terms of range) to cost. One is 1700 pieces, and the other is 2000. Both locomotives are mostly black, DBG, and LBG - there are (as far as I know) no rare parts involved. If I went through Bricklink and only used new parts, what's the opinion on what I could expect to pay (or expect the price per part to be)?

Interesting idea. Thank you.

There are a few hangups about the Mercury that I'd like to ask your (and others') input on: 1) The big quarter bows don't come in LBG - the closest color (oddly enough) is flat silver. I'd be inclined to dye the parts, but, aside from black interior car dye, I've never had any luck with dyes coming even close to the mark of reproducing actual Lego colors. Does anyone know of a good dye that nails LBG? 2) The rear truck has minimum swing capacity no matter what I do - even with the more "open" version, it (ironically) has about the same few degrees of movement capable with the "close" skirts. I'm kind of up against a rock and a hard place when it comes to these skirts - I want to reproduce the look of the actual locomotive, but achieving it almost fully compromises its ability to turn. 3) Speaking of skirts, this is a new version of the loco with the actual full-length skirts. Is this preferable, even though it eliminates detail (it is the classic Mercury look)?

Sweet, I want one. Though a number of the runners up were fantastic, too (that ice cream truck is astounding).

Have you submitted this to ideas? Because if you haven't, you should.

Thanks. I just can't decide between this and the century :(. I can only afford to build one.

I spent about 4 hours completely rebuilding this one. I could find no evidence that the Mercury was ever actually painted baby blue, so I defaulted to grey. I also... Lifted the boiler by one plate. Completely reworked the internals. It now has 2x PU Large motors driving one shaft (I hope they can do this? IE, have one motor run forward and the other in reverse, powering a single gear?) Totally rebuilt the front end. This was ridiculously difficult because the two curved pieces aren't actually 2 bricks apart - they're slightly less than that. So I had to search all over for pieces that would fill this gap. This does necessitate the temporary removal of the headlight, but I can re-add it as a custom part (with lighting - I left space inside to run the wires for a light). I'll have to cut the central arch piece, but have no qualms about doing so since it was literally the only brick type that would work in this gap. Moved the rear skirt curve back to the "refit" position, exposing the firebox (which was never there before). This not only allows for some additional detail and interesting angles, but also gives the rear truck an opportunity to swing a bit more. Technically, the locomotive is now the James Whitcomb Riley. The front truck is now double articulated.

I think I'll build it tonight and see what I think. It's not that much work - nose, tender, skyline, trailing truck, swap Walschaerts for Baker.

Alright, so I was able to fix all those problems as pointed out by Daedalus304. Now, here's another, unrelated question: I believe I have figured out a way to create the nose cone of the New Haven I-5 4-6-4. A combination of these parts... ... will likely produce very close to the desired effect... I'm very confident that, with a few hours work, I could create the I-5 in just as convincing a version as the J3a. The proportions are really so close that most of the modifications would be superficial. So... which locomotive do you prefer? I am really on the fence here. I like the NYC hudson a lot. But I've never seen anyone with the NH engine in Lego. Opinions?

Okay, I rectified 1 and 2 with relative ease (redesigned the pilot; added a second ball joint to each truck). With regards to the third point: if I add traction tires to the drivers (which I assume they will need, considering that they are the only point of contact for the motors) won't that have the effect of "heightening" those wheels very slightly, thus giving the lead and trailing trucks some clearance? If I run this, I would only ever be doing it on a flat modeling table - I'm not laying out a circle of track on a rug or something. So I expect any 'terrain undulation' to be very minor.

I think I would have preferred an interior... but, then again, there's not much that could be done with 6w interiors, anyway. Wasn't your locomotive 8w?

Blech. Well, you prodded me into it. I spent 3 hours completely gutting the interior. It now has 2x Large PU motors, both in the engine, both powering the main drivers. The tender will have 2x battery boxes/receiver units.

Neat. Always loved New Zealand railroads.

Because it bothers me on a fundamental level to have an unpowered locomotive :P. I don't like the idea of the tender being the "engine." Stupid? Unreasonable? Impractical Yes sir. But when I drop $50 on high-end 3d printed drivers, I want those puppies to spin under power.

Overall, great. I'll offer some minor critiques: Did you consider widening the boiler to 5 studs width? It looks a bit narrow at 4 to me. I think it's possible that the stack could be closer to the real-deal. For example: You could also probably use a more severe angle on the roof of the cab. These are pretty small nits, though - I can't really spot anything else. Great job.

I was able to squeeze 2 large PU motors and two battery packs into the loco/tender. Optimistically, that should do it.

I'm increasingly of the belief that the PU XL motor isn't going to work with this particular model - it's simply too big, and I am having to make structural concessions in order to get it into the locomotive. Does anyone think two PU Mediums will be enough?