astyanax

They look regular LBG to me

Yeah I was wondering too if we're seeing more kinds of concave panels.

Might have 2395 and 2403 in Red, those were sorely missing

https://rebrickable.com/parts/32198/technic-gear-20-tooth-bevel/71/ They appear occasionally in LBG, also in recent years

Yeah, I'm working on an alternative (not saying improvement ). Aiming to publish this side of Christmas.

https://www.newelementary.com/p/new-parts-added-to-lego-pick-brick.html Lots of new Technic parts have been added to Pick a Brick. New Technic molds are outrageously expensive though...

I've found workarounds for each of them. Even simpler, I used beams connected with I'm expecting the 6x1 slope will appear in red soon enough. Until then I just use the 4x1 curved slope (11153). The convex curve is inaccurate, but it doesn't look bad. Interesting, do you have any in virtual format? Hear hear!

That's basically what I did in both cases. But I made a lot of modifications on the way, made sure they're fully buildable with Lego bricks, and offered them for free. Thanks for the tip, I'll refrain from that then haha!

It's not a total ban. For example, I have 2 models on Rebrickable (Ferrari 488 Pista and Lamborghini Vision GT) that are modifications of sets from Chinese brick manufacturers. But my models are published in full, and indeed they're fully buildable with Lego bricks. Perhaps where yours runs foul is it's a partial modification with dependence on non-Lego bricks or instructions?

Today is a beautiful day! Thanks @jb70. I'll be using these files as the basis for my additional cosmetic modifications, like in previous years. Caveat: my version will be Red, aimed at those like me, who can't be bothered buying the actual set in Bright Light Orange...

Perhaps it would be possible to have the pinhole 1L higher? That would trivialize the kingpin variant, and also the other variant still seems possible and rigid. Not sure if this is naive and would complicate printing though.

However, what's possible is connecting 2 macaroni pieces. They have a cutout for a stud, and the stopper is exactly 2 studs in length. In the old days, we had to cut pneumatic hoses to the required lengths ourselves. I remember doing this for set 8868 (I'm getting old...). Not sure if cutting was ever required for rigid hoses though. But I have no qualms doing so, nor in asking others to do the same in my published MOCs. Occasionally I buy 40+L rigid hoses just to have something ready for cutting down when needed.

The stopper prevents it from "getting lost" inside a 2L pin. Obviously, you can make a stopper-free version by cutting a rigid hose... What bothers me most is that the black 2L pin doesn't hold this 2L bar, because the "grippy" part lies too deep inside the 2L pin...

Hear, hear!

Amazing! Thanks @jb70 That answers my question

Great work @jb70, thanks!! No pressure whatsoever, just wondering: will there be a next version of the pimped model too? The question is relevant to me because my modification of the front is progressing well (IMHO) and I'm considering if I'll be able to use your pimped LDraw model as a basis for codifying my mods, as done with the Ferrari Daytona SP3 before.

Just BrickLink. Was lucky enough to find a domestic shop only shipping domestically, that had just parted out a P1 with reasonable prices. Since I live in a smallish country, that gave me a chance to order before it was all gone....

Good news and bad news. I guess some people are hoping I might give this model some extra "pimpage" on top of @jb70's excellent efforts... and yes I will, but... I've decided against buying the set. I'm just not looking forward to adding this BLO color to my collection. Nevertheless I've ordered all the new generically useful parts, like suspension arms, gearbox parts, and A-pillars. So I'll be building the P1 in Red (the least worst choice in terms of parts availability -- and I already have a ton of Red parts in my inventory). And while I'm at it, I'll extend the nose by a stud and create entirely new headlights, to my taste (which may include glow-in-the-dark ). I'll study the engine bay as well, see if that can be made more attractive. But I'm not eager to implement ride height adjustment... if anyone has concrete ideas on that front, do let us all know! I'll share the results in due time

Right, so nose of the P1 model should've been exactly 1 stud longer. Looking at @jb70's virtual model (I don't have the set (yet?)), I don't see any reason whatsoever -- structural nor aesthetic -- why the nose couldn't have been made 1 stud longer...

You'll snap the plastic before those shocks will contract!

FWIW, the tip of the splitter of the Ferrari Daytona SP3 is a full 2 studs further out than the splitter of the McLaren P1. Is the real SP3 that much "pointier" than the real P1?

While there's a lot to complain about the front, Sariel made a big building error and then proceeded to point out (literally) how wrong it looked...

That's gonna have electronics?

What could be problematic is if someone charges money for a model that contains work of others. For example, if one would take the pimped 1:8 supercar as starting point, adds a few more mods to it, then puts premium instructions for it on Rebrickable.

Cannot be unseen