MxWinters

I made a LSD a few years ago when I was prototyping for an off-road Morris C8 field artillery tractor. I ended up not fitted a centre differential so I never used it in the final model. This version worked quite well and applies a good amount of torque to the side that is free or lifted up but still allows the axles to spin at different speeds when cornering. It isn't as compact as your version so its more suited for centre differentials instead of axle differentials. The pink belts go onto pink pulleys (I do this when LDD doesn't allow for part adjustment or manipulation). LDD version here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1E_1AwQ_ixsdeD1Bnowy41epDdgkuo5Bn

All the class 08's I've seen/driven/riden on have air whistles. I believe they are powered from the exhaust system. I'm also a huge train fan. I have a few models in my display cases, see below. I love the proper Great Western Railway locos like the City class, Castle class, Pannier and Prairie Tanks. I also love British Railways diesels like the type 2, 3, 4 and some type 5's. I also love the GWR Railcar and the British Railways first and third generation DMU's (diesel multiple units) like the class 108, 121, 124 and the class 150, 153, 158 and the 159. I have also driven a couple of class 08's and a class 50 Hoover. From left to right: HS4000 Kestrel (limited edition), Class 47, Class 43 HST. From left to right, Class 52 Western, Class 33, Class 24 (limited edition). Right to left, Class 20 Moose, GWR Pannier Tank 67XX Class, LSWR 0298 Class Beattie Well Tank and a LEGO model of the Napier Deltic engine. The LSWR Beattie Well Tank above is a model of same loco that the Bodmin and Wenford Railway has and is one of the oldest British locos still in steam and it still pulls fair paying passengers, although on a preserved railway and is not main line certificated use. The LEGO Napier Deltic engine is a reverse engineered copy of MOC-Pages user "Lego Stalwart" (see here http://www.moc-pages.com/moc.php/247991). The real Deltic engine has 3 banks of 6 cyliders each (total of 18 cylinders) with 2 pistons on each cylinder (total of 36 pistons), these 3 bank were then arrange in a triangle or deltic configuration and coupled together with gearing. The engine was then supercharged to increase its power output up to 1650hp for railway use. The Class 55 Deltic locomotive had 2 of these engines to give 3300hp. Due the the configuration of this engine, I has a very unique sound to it considering it is a 2 stroke engine.

Without a question but I was looking at the Ink Koi version, they like colouring in (they are only 6 and 8) and LEGO, that one mixes multiple things into one LEGO set. These are also funky looking mechanical machines rather than cars/trucks/cranes ect. Regardless, I totally agree with your point and that is how I got hooked on Technic when I was that age.

Interesting idea but not a set for me. I like automata like mechines, LEGO or not, but to me this seems a poor attempt for the adult market unless the creators were intending for a "fish out of water" look. That said, I could see my nieces loving this as they love normal LEGO and could be a neat way of getting them into Technic.

Totally agree, no thanks needed.

Could you not also add a half bush on the outside of that connector just to add a little more friction on the outside? Granted you might need to stock up on them as they may be prone to falling off if they are at the very end of the steering arm axle. Looks a sweet project though, can't wait to see more .

I have less than 30 people in my FB friends list, still, I have shared the link to the video above on my FB (I hope you don't mind). Sorry I can't do anything else.

Wow, how sad can people get? "More than 1400 parts of the entire product", could have sworn Sariel said more than 3000 parts. Funny how they have a huge green shield saying "AES 256bit", yet if you add this into the shopping cart and click checkout, it then asks for your home address, this page has a http:// address and Firefox says the page isn't is encrypted. Isn't that info classed as personal data which needs to be encrypted by UK/EU law? The contact page is dodgy too, non British phone number and "detail-usefull" doesn't exsist at that address quoted, although they could have registered in a different name. I'm shocked how people can be so disrespectful to a community member who has given so much just because they know nothing will happen to them. Utter shame on them and if they are hiding behind the Chinese government, utter shame on the Chinese state for allowing this to happen and continue to happen. Of course I'm refering to the Chinese government here, not the Chinese people in general.

Oh man, that sucks, I hope you've banned your brother from touching your collection. Still, good on Susan for great service . This is a reason I don't let anyone touch any of my LEGO, not even for a quick test drive, I consider my LEGO collection too valuable, both sentimentally and monetary. The other day, I had my lorry in my Mum's car to show her and my Dad some changes I'd made. When they dropped me back home, I found the front axle/steering system was all broken and I had to rebuild it, luckily it only took a couple of minutes to fix. My dad carelessly dropped a heavy bag on the top of the cab, crushing the axle. If this kinda thing happens when I show someone my model, no chance Ill let someone touch my full collection. Free feel to call me overly protective, I won't ever deny it .

Awesome model, very impressive. How far does the drill head reach below the ground?

Oh, I didn't realise you could buy Technic parts from the Pick-a-Brick site, I always assumed that was for normal Lego bricks, tiles ect, although I did get all my PF parts from there. I stand corrected and thank you for telling me about this. I have to place an order for a 8869 PF switch for an auto-compressor anyway, so Ill start adding some of these to my bag. Thanks again

I totally agree. Considering I like most things done in a set way, I don't have that many OCD things with LEGO such as mold marks, perfect symmetry ect. However I do have a couple, mainly due to autism. All 2L or 3L friction pins must be black and not blue, All full bushes must be oriented to minimize friction as much as possible, 2,4,6,8,10 and 12L axles must be in black. 3,5,7, 9L axles must be in light bluish gray. 5.5L with stop must be in dark bluish gray and 3L with stud stop must be in dark tan, All frictions axle pins must be in blue, all non-friction axle pins must be in tan, All vehicles must have the steering wheel on the correct side (right hand drive), With the exception of batteries, stickers, elastic bands and string, all components must be made by TLG. This of course rules out the use of the SBrick, the Power Functions system is miles better anyways. I do tend to buy LEGO new instread of used but since TLG have started making only blue 3L friction pins and red 2L alxes, I have to buy these in the proper colours second hand . A little off topic, "I know these are kids toys and it is for ease of assembly but were kids smarter back then compared to now?" I often wonder that and can only conclude that the answer to that is yes, and not just with LEGO, kids these days are, for the most part and being polite, dumb.

Ignoring the fact I hate American cars, this model is awesome. Its good some nice lines on it. I love the square styling of the older cars, modern cars just look like a mess. One happy customer I bet :D.

Hello LEGO Train 12 Volts, Thanks, good to meet you.

Interesting, I've not seen that book. That idea is similar in principle but quite primitive (expected for 1984). It does only have a single contact point but it does work on each wheel and not the differential. Thanks for showing that to me :D I completely agree, I can't fit drums on each wheel, due to the size limitations. If I was building my lorry in 1:10 scale, it wouldn't be an issue but 1:16 is a little too small for individual brakes on each wheel. This axle brake is my next best option. Interesting, I shall have to keep this in mind and make sure this doesn't happen, thanks for making me aware of this. I have only tested this on my proto-type lorry and it worked well, but that was just a test model and only weighed about 1-1.5Kg so I don't really consider those tests to be totally accurate. The high speed could be the reason for your design was slipping. With my current lorry, the wheels only spin at 3RPM in first gear and 15RPM in fourth gear, the differential's 20 tooth pinion gear and thus the pulley spins a little faster but not by much. I should just point out, I'm not building an "arctic" lorry. The term "artic lorry" is a British phrase which is short for articulated lorry. Most places tend to call them semi trucks. An artic lorry is just like a normal semi truck is that it is designed to drive on smooth tarmac roads, it has nothing to do with the arctic or vehicles designed to drive on snow/ice. Sorry for the confusion. Regardless, don't worry, I will start a new thread for my lorry when I've ironed out a couple of issue it has. Take Care Morgan

Lol I totally agree. I only have two LEGO display models. The 21312 Woman Of NASA set and a model of the insane Napier Deltic engine. All my other LEGO is there for playing with, not for displaying. I can see why, but I just don't have the time or motivation for make them. This forum seems to be respectfull unlike people on YouTube, but I just wanted to make it clear as the lorry I'm building is by far my biggest and most ambitious model and I bet someone will ask, I don't want this forum spammed with instructions requests. Thank you, Tis nice to meet you :D

Sorry I'm not sure quite what you mean on your first two points, would you mind expanding upon them. On your third point, see below for my reply. I also believe most air brakes require air to release for safety, I think its the same for rail stock, both for positive and negitive air pressure braking systems, at least in the UK anyway. I also think that this is the better method for my model. I plan on fitting an auto-compressor and air tank under the trailer of my artic lorry as the trailer will have pneumatic suspension which will require air pressure. Regardless, the air compressor doesn't need to be running continuously anyway, once you apply air and release the brake, you can just close the value again and the brake will stay released untill most of the air in the ram and air lines leaks out. This wont happen within 5 seconds of releasing the brake thus there is no need for the compressor to anyways be running. I don't think its that complex. Its 84 parts including diff and axles. This will be an important feature on my lorry as I will be parking the trailers on hills and since I will be using wheels on the landing gear rather than a flat plate/tile, I don't want the trailer rolling down a hill. Mainly due the suspension on the trailer will be pneumatic and I rather have air lines going between trailers instead of unrealistic flat wires. Just remember, I built this for my lorry which I'm building in a very particular way and due to curtain specifications and design choices, I think that this is the best solution for my model. I'm open to ideas and if I see a better braking system that will fit into my design, Ill happily use it. Also I prefer to flick a valve then applying the brake electrically or manually. Ive posted the LDD file for this on my Google Drive account if you want to download and look at it properly, hopefully I'm allowed to post this link, really sorry if I'm not: https://bit.ly/2kcF9h1 Take Care Morgan

Hey everyone, today I would like to share with you a design for a pneumatic axle brake. I had intended on using this on the cab unit for my artic lorry (semi truck) as the 2 speed gearbox I had in it had a neutral position. The 4 speed sequential gearbox designed by Sariel that I am using now, doesn't have a neutral position so I will simply use the drive motors as a parking brake. However, I do plan on using this air brake for the trailers. The axle/differential is something your familiar with and this air brake is more-less an addon. Just like most real air brakes, air pressure is required to release it. This was designed for a ~1:16th scale lorry and is 2 1/2 studs from the rear of the axle frame but the basic principle could be made bigger and used for other creations other than a vehicles. When using this design on a vehicle, it should be noted that this brake works on the differential and not the wheels, therefore it this is not a perfect braking system, the wheels can still slip causing the vehicle to move. Thus I don't recommend using this with living Minifigs. This air brake won't always release evenly causing added fraction on the axle from one of the double half liftarms remaining in contact with the pulley's tire, however there are serveral options for overcoming this such as routing the air lines in such a way that brake does release properly. When applying this air brake, its best to only supply air to the ram for a short time, as the ram doesn't ever fully retract, air will leak if you leave the valve open. This isn't really an issue when the brake it released. I won't claim that this is completely my design but I don't ever recall seeing this online and have searched for similar designs but didn't find any. If this is someone elses design than I'm sorry for posting this, mods please take this down if that is appropriate. Not sure if I can post the LDD file for this to this forum but if you need it, I can post it to my Google Drive account if it is allowed. Hope you like it, let me know what you think. Take Care Morgan

Hello everyone, I've been a member for a little while but this is my first post. My name is Morgan, I live in Cornwall, UK, I am in my early 30's and have been a fan of LEGO since I was about 5 or 6. My main interests are theatre/stage lighting, physics, electrical/mechanical engineering, LEGO and video gaming, I also like fiddling around with Python and C code for the Raspberry Pi and the Arduino. As well as my LEGO project, I am also working on a computerised hamster cage with automatic lighting, climate control with the ability to record to file or stream over network, video data from the cage camera. As a side project, I am also making an external user interface unit for the cage with an OLED display, pretty colour LED's, menu buttons. This UI will be linked to the cage computer via a serial data link. One could say I like making things :P. About My LEGO hobby: As you may have guessed from above, my main building theme is Technic and I love making cars, off-roaders, mechanical machines and lorries (semi trucks), basically anything functional. I am not a fan of LEGO models that sit on a shelf gathering dust, when I build a model, I treat it as the real thing by making it earn its keep and making it work hard. For example, the last proto-type of the model I'm currently working on travelled just over 3 miles (4.8km) (according to Google Maps), and that's real miles not scale miles. My last off-roader did at least 50 real miles though I never kept a proper log of the distance so that value is a rough quess based on its speed and length of time I played with it. When building with LEGO, I try to use the following design rules: Strength and structural rigidity over looks and/or detail, Reliability over complexity, Power and torque over speed, Modify nothing (except for adding stickers). This is why every design I see online, or come up with myself, is tested extensively in the real world under a wide range of conditions before I use it in a model. If said design fails these tests in any way, I don't use it. This is the main reason why my big models can take years to finish, sorry no fast build times from me. Due to the cost and playability limitations of official LEGO sets, I almost never buy them (sorry LEGO), I only normally buy parts from Bricklink. However, electrical parts such as Power Function, I will only ever buy from LEGO themselves. Apart from the 21312 Woman Of NASA set which I picked up a couple of weeks ago, its been many years since I bought a LEGO set. Due to this and the fact that I do not play with LEGO every day or several times a week, I am not an expert builder so please don't ever expect super awesome builds from me. I simply play with LEGO because I enjoy it and because LEGO, at least for the most part, doesn't actively try to kill you unlike playing with mains electrics. Here comes my slightly rebellious side, I also love building LEGO models of vehicles so I can drive them on public roads with no tax, insurance, MOT (annual safety check) ect. Luckily UK traffic laws don't apply to LEGO models hehe :P. Current Project: I am currently building a ~1:16 scale model of a 6x4 artic lorry (semi truck) built around Sariel's 4 speed sequential gearbox and Brickshelf user pipasseyoyo's cab shell design, I will post a topic with full details once the cab unit comes out of testing and into trails. This model is not based on any real cab unit, however the dimensions are as close as I can make them to the Volvo FH16 750 6x4. Due to the use of other people's designs, I personally do not consider my lorry to be a MOC, although some may disagree with my definition of a MOC meaning 100% my own creation. My cab unit is more like 50% other people's designs, 45% MOC, 3% brute force and 2% luck. As I said, I will post a proper topic for it soon with full details, specs, pictures and videos soon. Please Note: Please keep in mind that I have only ever built LEGO models for myself, therefore I do NOT publish instructions or LDD files of my models, I may post some in the future if I come up with a unique design for something, but please don't ever expect instructions or LDD files on any of my models. Feel free to put the effort in to reverse engineer my models if you want to build them yourself, but please don't ask for instructions. Also, most of my models contain design ideas that I've found online, thus it would be wrong of me to give out instructions on other people's work without their consent. Forgive me for adding this, but with the amount of rude comments on YouTube with people demanding instructions and as a new member, I just thought I'd make this clear from the outset. Hope you have a good day/night, Take Care, Morgan