Robin_IV

Thank you. It makes me very happy that you like my model. :) I have measured out my model. The red frame is a square: Seems to be correct. Nice to hear that you like my little cockleshell .

The facade looks very clean but detailed at the same time. The trees are nicely done and look very spooky.

Don't know if it is ok to post this topic and/or if it is already existing. (I searched but found nothing) I am looking for minifigures for the pirate theme which I can buy. I do not have many Lego at home and not very many minifigs. Torsos are pretty simple to choose (Soldiers have one soldier uniform). But buying the correct faces for my minifigs is very hard for me. I do not actually know if there are better flesh tone heads for soldiers and pirates or if yellow fits better. (Also keeping in mind the yellow torso parts of pirates.) The minifigs I want to buy are - Imperial soldiers (Redcoats, Bluecoats) - Pirates - Gunners I searched different sources and looked on BrickLink for different head expressions. I saw many good MOCs out there on EB which have flesh tone but also yellow heads. Due to the fact most of the pirate expressions (with tooth, eyepatch) are printed in yellow it seems to me fitting better for minifigs. I thought a overview for good heads is very helpful to choose your favorites. (Link to BL entry and name is pasted in images) Yellow: Male: Female: Flesh: Male: Female: Custom: MiniFigure Head decals (130 facial expressions) - By Capt. Kirk I will update the list from time to time. If you have more minifig heads you can post them. (Pixel height: 120, Link-URL: BL-catalog entry, Image-Title: Part number-> e.g.:3626bpx302 )

Thank you very much! Yes I know. I recognized the issue with the gun gates 2 weeks ago. Their scale is not fitting to the scale of the ship. Actually should put 3x3 in. Will do that at time. I do have luck because I can edit the walls whith the gun gates very easy. Thanks for reminding. A bigger anchor is always a better anchor. :D I'll take a look. I have to admit that I have still not compared it to the size of my ship. And I found the book and will take a look at it. Thank you. Also for interested people there is a interesting book named The Sailing Frigate - A History of Ship Models with very good images, informations and plans of frigates.

I saw the pictures of this build on your flickr album and thought: I have to find this post on EB! Really amazing build! The roof working is tremendous! Also the colours are working together very well. This is giving a atmospheric view on the build. I always loved types of houses like this. Keep up that great work!

I'm a real fan of the ancient roman and greek empire. I think you catched the scene very well! I love your goats and the vineyard! The trireme is really nice and accurate for this size. But imao it could always be bigger! Where did you buy the minifig utensils like armor, helmets and weapons? from BrickWarriors?

It's a very beautiful little castle! I like it how you achieved this wall angles with the transition of the walk on the walls. A castle in this size can be displayed much longer then taller MOCs. I like your roofing of the little house in the inside of the castle :)

As far as I know a electromotor can not really be damaged in this way. The main purpose for the clutch gear is that there is not put too much force on e.g. a transmission. Because everything is out of plastic it tends to bend when you put too much force on a technic structure which is at it's end of turning and gears will break or parts jump out of their position. So the clutch gears purpose is more to protect the Lego pieces than the motor itself. But for your build it is not really needed because you have a linear and constant movement. Just make sure to reduce the gear transmission so there will not break your gears.

Bucks of course. It was late yesterday so...

2 Months ago I wanted to buy the 79111 LoneR Constitution Train Chase for 100 bucks from a US seller to Germany. He had to add 50 bucks for shipping/taxes. @coaster How much will it cost to ship an order from these R104 switch tracks from the US to EU? And I would not only buy one box and I don't know if the size affects the price of shipping/tax. I also think the idea of these custom tracks with 9v is very interesting mainly because I am an 9V fan. I would rather buy from BT than from TrixBrix. 3D printing is okay but molding is much more endurable and you hold some higher quality ABS in your hands than the 3D ABS imao.

-> No. I have no piece count yet. Because the ship is not in one single file saved. So I have to count all piece counts manual together from each file. But I will update as soon as I've done it. Maybe at the end of this week or next week.

-> And when you go to the album, you will see a pic of the anchor. I did't display it in the ship file because I have no ropes there and this would look weird.

@Tenderlok did also recently a very nice model Bricksafe - Flensburger Kreisbahn Diskussed in this topic.

Omg. This thing is so cute You hide the electronic stuff so good

Amazing builtding! I love your vehicle. Are these stickers from the original Egypt Lego Theme?

Update III - 18.08.2018 – ship design complete! - hull [c] - stern [c] - front [c] - deck [c] - mast [c] ([c]=complete; [ip]=in progress; [p]=pending) Hello back again. The last month I worked nearly day and night at my frigate. This happened not because I wanted to finish the ship. I waited for this moment since I was a kid. So I really enjoyed the work to experiment with new building techniques and go to my limits. I really like to build sailing ships and after I had finished this tiring work on the hull design things like the masts, the boats and attachment for the rigging were really fast built. (I literally started 4 complete new hulls (after completed the one before) before I got the result I wanted. This was not very motivating.) I will as you like it guide you trough my working progress and try to explain different things at my ship. Pls. be lenient with me. It’s my first MOC. :’) HQ pictures in the album. Credits Before I start I want to thank to all modders out there for their building techniques. I invested so much time on the web to find pictures, plans, models of ships and different techniques and so on. Special thanks to - @Anders T for your help with historical informations - @Horry for your very helpful tutorials about sailing ships - @deckard9 for pics of your dinghies which based on models of @Anders T - @Dread Pirate Wesley with your bow design of your Man-o-War and your anchor I mention them now and not at the end so that you can recognize them when you see the pics :) General Information The statistics of my ship changed during my building process because of limitations of space and of Bricks in the right colour. (Oof. You can’t imagine how less space you have on such a ship) I also wanted it to be determined. Now I carried together some additional informations and found a consent. Name: Providence Type: Frigate Rate: 5th rate Armament: 34 guns Launched: 1770 Operator: Royal Navy Model: - Dimensions (rounded): Width: 87 studs; 70 cm; 27 in Length: 235 studs; 186 cm; 73 in Height: 180 studs; 142 cm; 56 in - Approx. 13000-15000 studs (exact number pending) - Single Deck frigate - Decks: Gun deck, Quarterdeck, Forecastle (Quarterdeck and Forecastle were not counted as actual decks) - Armament: Main battery 22x 12-pounder Quarterdeck 8x 6-pounder Aft 2x 9-pounder aft guns Forecastle 2x 9-pounder chase guns 4x 24-pounder carronades The hull I’m very happy that I have finished the hull so far. The only thing missing are the segments of the lower hull (mainly the brown part until to the black 2x3 Slope Brick Curved) which need to be filled with bricks. I think I will take some Duplo bricks for help. But the gun deck and the quarterdeck is finished after a couple of corrections. To get access to the gun deck the side walls can be removed. Also small parts of the decks can be lifted out to get access from above. The aft and the bow can be removed from the middle section complete with only removing some tiles from the upper decks. They are hold at place with axles and pins. Really straight forward. The guns in the gun deck are fixed to place by a 1x6 Plate and a 1x2 Plate with Offset-Peghole between the carriage. In this way they won’t move around when I carry the ship around and will safe me from a lot of frustration. Also the gunners will have a stud to be placed on. I will anyway attach some ropes to the cannons for design purpose. It was an important feature for me to build the ship in segments to easily dismantle different pieces. It will be complicated due to the sheer size of the ship to transport it or put the minifigs back to their place without the ability to remove some pieces. Because of this reason there are emerging a lot of structural weaknesses trough the hull I have to compensate. I’m not 100% sure though if I can build everything in this way I want it. The decks First I didn't want to have an opened waist. I had to be disabused. ^^ Now I am really happy with the result and it looks much more realistic. :P On the quarterdeck I placed 4 guns each side. I wanted to place another row on the height of the steering wheel but the swivel guns had to be put somewhere as well. The brown box in front of the Mizzenmast is the cover for the stairs down to the gun deck. I also placed two stairs right at the beginning of the waist. On the forecastle I placed 4 carronades instead of 2 because it looked better to me. (Love big guns!) The two chase guns are placed in a 45° angle but can be positioned completely to the sailing direction to hunt down the enemy! _________________________________________ The gun deck is going completely trough the ship and is mounted with 11 guns each side. Due to the width of the carriages (3 studs + 2 for the wheels) it was not possible to move together the guns to get 12 guns each side. You always have to decide between design and stability because the columns and pillars have also find their place right? ______________________________________ The grid behind the Main mast and the plates next to it can be removed. The crane on the right side of the ship will carry a white dinghy but I removed it for now for better visibility. ____________________________________ One of the creations I wanted to build before I even started the ship was the bell. But I waited until end to keep the motivation! And it helped. I can recommend for you to build your MOC in the order from “I don’t like it” to “This is why I started this MOC”. The bell itself is in Chrome Silver. ____________________________________ Between the bell and the Foremast there is the anchor capstan. It’s actually working with technic axles and gears. The ropes will be going trough the technic 1 x 2 brick in the bow. In the third picture I have opened the bow section. There you can see the gears and next to it the string reel drums. ____________________________________ The figurehead is a dummy for a mermaid torso. I’m actually really happy how it turned out. My brother was not happy with the version before. So I started completely new. Originally I wanted a mermaid with a tail. But this piece is too high. I really like the addition with the two fishes. They are actually very old pieces and only available in Dark Gray. But this gives more aesthetic. The Pearl Gold part was very complicated to built because of lack of space and elements. I’m not sure if the hoses can be bend so much. But I already replaced some of the black clips with a ring plate (4081b). The masts The masts are really straight forward and build them on one day. First I wanted a Reddish Brown colour but I have to consider the colour scheme of a ship. So they turned out Tan and on the upper part in Black. The problem is that the Technic Pin Connector 2l is not available in Tan. I am really looking forward to attach the rigging. :) Gun For the 12-pounder gun and the 9-pounder chase gun I used my originally self-made cannon. I recognized that I am missing some Carronades. So I build them. The first tries were really tall. This is the final version so far. Dinghy This beautiful model is not my creation. (→ Credits) But I loved it so much that I had to use it. Sidewall The railing is attached with pins to the deck. The walls below are held with hinges to the railing. It's a simple but effective technique. ___________________________________ With the side wall at the stern I had really to struggle. (→ See also Update II) The railing itself was actually very complicated to build. No ship has the same railing than an other. But my railings always looked unrealistic (esp. the colour scheme). So I decided me for this way with a two Plates high tan going trough the quarterdeck. I also considered to attach some anti border nets. Another problem is that quarterdeck on real life ships is curved. It’s sloped which is not very Lego friendly. ^^ When do you start to build it? To be honest I have no clue. At the moment I really have no money to buy anything. Also the order process will take several days to organize which bricks I am going to buy from which seller. I’ll buy the Bricks on Bricklink. But I am really looking forward to start it. I think I have mentioned everything important. I hope you like my first MOC. I am really a fanatic of LEGO, Guns and sailing ships. To combine this is very satisfying. For the real model I will add rigging etc. But there will be no sails. They always look ugly, don’t have this bloated effect from wind and are covering too much of the ship. I will put some small fabric pieces like the sails are take in. I thank you very much for your feedback. Robin_IV View more pictures in the gallery.

Really beautiful castle! It shows that a moc has not to be always a big one. It reminds me of the old classic castel lego sets.

I really love your work at the minifigures. It was surrely hard work! I love your Eomers Hideout Tower. It has so great stone pattern and details. Have to build a castle in the future too. I love your arch from the gatehouse. Really beautiful tile work.

I would really enjoy to see new Sets like a harbour with a quay wall, crane and a storehouse or smaller boats like a sloop/schooner. But with more details and appropiate to the minifig scale. Also a smugglers cave (1000+ pieces) would be very nice...

E.g. BrickLink. On Bricklink there are many sellers who buy professionaly sets and resell them in the original brown Lego shipping box. So you have to buy sometimes at least two or three. Like this one. He has a Min buy of 100 000 CZK (one hundred thousand) which are roughly 4 400 dollars. I didn't mean other Brands witch frauds. I mean seller who sell sets as new when they aren't and reseal them or used but with old heavily bad parts (like in your example) or parts which he has added from other sources and not the original set which could be even older and worse. If he would take care of parts and store them accurately it would not be such a disaster that bricks break like glass. And even then he must make it clear in the product information for the buyer that bricks might be like cookies.

And I tested LSynth in LDraw and it works perfectly for bending pieces. (ropes, chains, hoses) But Hm. Maybe I should use pneumatic hoses instead. Because I have to bend them on very tight space. I have to order some additional and test it in RL.

I would never buy such sets on Ebay. There are so many frauds out there. I would not take that risk. It's not worth the money imo. And as we all know Lego uses 4 identical seals for their boxes. ^^

Here are a few examples: They call it "marbled bricks". Heres the video I have talked about when they change the colour: ____________________________________________________________________________________________________ And heres another interesting vid from TLG itself. They also metion when they mix the colours. Do you mean 31076?

Thank you for this hint. I will use this function on rebrickable. Your're right. I use MLCad but you can't bend parts anyway. Only with a complicated coordinate system. I read about that in LSynth it is feasible to connect the pneumatic tubes with pneu. hoses. But I have no clue how.

Ah ok. I heared some time ago in a video that it is usual in the brick modling process, when they change the colour from one mold that it could be that the new colour used is slightly different in the first hundreds molds until the old colour is completely out of the machine. Normally they try to throw away this output but of course there are always slipping some parts trough. It seems that Lego is putting such parts in their smaller sets. I have bought two days ago the Set Pencil Pot. I had to recognize that I contained two different white tones. Especially the Brick 1 x 6 and the plate 1 x 6 where slightly darker. :D