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zoo

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by zoo

  1. There are hundreds of sealed boxes available through bricklink. I have never bought anything through the site myself though.
  2. Fair enough. I could work with a 3x2 L instead of T. :) Also, sometimes the axle hole in the 2x4 L beam gets in the way. I would find use of a 2x4 L half beam as well. The thing is that there are no beams other than the 2x4 L beam that take up only 2 holes in hight while allowing for perpendicular bracing. Not sure how to better explain it. For example, a 2x6 or 2x10 L beam would also meet the criteria I refer to (as well as the 3x2 L or 3x2 T beam, mentioned earlier).
  3. I apologize for ma' mad paint skillz. How is it that there is no part like the one above yet?
  4. That picture is taken in a perfect angle to what I wanted, but alas, it is too small for me to see what is going on. :( I've been looking for a while and come to the conclusion that I might have to search for a IRL sample and take my own pictures. :) To my understanding, independent movement of the two "axles" (front and rear chassis) on the Steiger is done entirely at the pivot point and both front and rear axles are fixed. Not sure of what other makers of articulated tractors there are on the market today and if all of them use similar systems as the Steiger. Sounds like you have been busy with your Fastrac! Glad to hear it. I'm very much in the pneumatics camp since, to me, it feels more realistic. Sure, you lose playability but to me it's worth it. Keep up the good work! :)
  5. Yo, how's the Fastrac coming along? :) I have been searching the web for some info on ways to keep all four wheels on the ground on articulated tractors. I stumbled upon your Case HI Steiger STX 530. Impressive model! Do you happen to have any pictures of the stearing linkage/pivot mechanism on the real Steiger or a similar system?
  6. I see. Do you have an example of how to use the 4x6 bent liftarms as reinforcement? I have been playing around with the 5x11 and 5x7 frames a bit in LDD and I've realized this as well. They are less versatile than I first thought, but still very useful in some configurations. About the new larger frames soon to be released; it feels like they will be very useful parts, but the larger the frames, the less rigid they will be when not reinforced. You say 12 is more than you feel you need. How long would you say you keep your creations assembled before taking them appart to build something else? Hehe true that. Yeah, the 5x7s seem a bit more useful in most cases. At the same time, the 5x7 frames are a lot more common in sets as well and since I only buy sets and no singles, I feel like I might want to buy a few smaller sets containing the 5x11 frames when possible. The 42075 First Responder looks to be nice little set.
  7. When building a rigid chassis, how high to you rank the 5x11 lift arm frame (64178) as a useful/vital part? Do you wish you had more of them in your collection? I just realized that they are not that common in sets and I'm trying to figure out if I should add some more of them to my collection.
  8. That might prevent axial movement but you also want to support the axle that goes through the gear wheel on both sides of the wheel.
  9. Alright, got it. Thank you! Cool, thanks!
  10. My first thought was that the tubes for the fire suppression system contain CO2 but I'm not sure how the internals are built and if CO2 would be efficient enough. Edit: Also, CO2 doesn't leave a complete mess after use, meaning minimum downtime. My thought as well.
  11. This is new to me, but I'm not sure I follow. The straight axle you are refering to appears to be the only one where the slots in the U-joints are aligned, yet you say this is the axle that will not behave correctly. Do you mind clearing this up a bit for me?
  12. Sorry, but I'm not following. I'm saying there are 3L pins with bushing that appear to be holding the linear acuators in place and these looks to be orange.
  13. I wonder, will these new larger sprocket wheels acually help building larger scale "regular" excavators (like the Volvo CE EC range) or are the current track elements too small in width for them to look realistic?
  14. Unfortunately, I think you need to calibrate your screen. They appear to be orange over here.
  15. To beer or not to beer, that is the question.
  16. At the current rate, the successor to the 42083 Bugatti Chiron will not be out until next year. My guess is that the price tag will climb north of the €400 mark.
  17. Volvo Cars still develop and build some of their models in Sweden though. Still, I wouldn't buy a new Volvo anyway. Just like most cars built today, they too have become fat and ugly with too many gizmos in them. I'll stick to my -97 V70 until forever probably.
  18. Interesting. Thanks for the clarification! Do you happen to know the wheel size of the real MB Arocs?
  19. Are you refering to the Mack Anthem? I've been thinking about how it compares in scale to the Xerion. Is there a thread or website somewhere that lists licensed sets and their relative scale to the real life counterpart? If not, there should be. I'm aware of that it depends on what you measure. Overall Length, width and hight or Wheel size etc, but it should still be possible to get a rough estimation.
  20. Sigh. My impression it the complete opposite. I believe that the people that fear for what LEGOs new design directions will do to future Technic sets are to a large degree the same people that grew up with LEGO in the 80's and 90's.
  21. This is my thought as well. Since the outer part of the yellow quadrants has a higher turning velocity than the inner part, you will need "rollers" that are either spherical or conical to minimize slipping. @Jeroen Ottens I'm not sure what you mean by loose cage, care to elaborate?
  22. Yea, I got confused. I read it like "the next BWE".
  23. Edit: Sorry, I missread. This post can be deleted.
  24. Exactly my thought. I miss those old Wheels. :( You've got my support @Bjarne!
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