LegoTT

Add weights on that thing and see how far it can go !

I mean it's impressive to learn that Paave is so young, knowing that 8 years ago he already managed to to so good mocs ! It mean he did so good without needing years of mocing experience, which is great ! He is one of the best technic mocer after all.

There is also this yellow contraction (only two yellow gears and one red knob needed) that is way more compact and can handle a good torque. No solid gear immobilisation for the 3/4 non-engaged, though.

Would this help ?

I don't get it. It was 8 years ago, and it had already great maturity in lego buildings as well as filming. How can you have so much young hands ? Are you using a hand model ?

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=41667&name=Technic, Arm 2 x 5 with 1/4 Gear 8 Tooth Double Bevel&category=[Technic, Gear]#T=P

I guess it qualify as bevel gear only if it's conical, so while you can make two parallel shaft work together with 12t single bevel gear (one on top of another, one facing the front and one facing the rear) it have to much friction. 20t double bevel gear can be used for parallel and perpandicular shaft, but with more friction than the new 20t spur gear and the new yellow bevel gear on the differential. So I think all the 12t, 20t bevel and double bevel gear are not proper bevel gear nor spur gear, only a compromise to allow more possibility with only one piece mold.

Indeed, by spur gear I meant oldest, non-bevel gear, but I'm not an english speaker and I believed spur gear was as a lingo used on eurobricks to differentiate from bevel gears, I should maybe using bricklink links of picture of gears instead.

Hello, I guess as soon the new 12t spur gear came, people did try it with chain links, as the 16t spur gear was working well with them, but the 8t spur gear not at all. Are the chain link working well with it ? I have a 12t / 24t combinaison in head, with 2.5 holes between the middle of axles.

Then if I get it right, from the small clock with the 31 studs pendulum, if I want to use a 70 studs pendulum, I only need to remove the 16t/24t gears from the 40t gear on the below and put instead them two 20t gears isn't it ? I will do the first order as soon you confirm it, the launch tower and starship are designed for about 40€, I will attempt to make the weight of the clock having a starship destacking cinematic. Let me know if this sorta WIP is not relevant anymore for this tread and if you want me open a new one. EDIT : I'm not sure about the step 26. Is this acting with its adjusted weight or is it just a stop and I can switch the 4L axle for a 3L axle ?

From what I see on you modern style clock movies, it's an about 165 stud long pendulum with an horizontal displacment of 30 stud. So a 31 stud pendulum relate to less than 6 stud horizontal displacment, witch is in the good size to fit it IN a launch mount for a 4 stud-wide starship.

How would it perform with a 65t-long pendulum with only 5t or 6t of balancing range ?

This one, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F0I6FHT8jyRJfaDp8Td_nGbjcEde0Jnu/view?usp=sharing which I believe be the same mechanism as this one https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tbNfih7dY28Cv3CotBCrR4Pl8SmZic_Y/view?usp=sharing I will only take the mechanism and the white rings idea as the full thing would be too big for his mother. A smaller case made from identicals system brick from the lego shop wall should be a neat and cheap option, I will also order the other part new because mine are used a lot, and it show.

That would be a nice thing to bring to lego ! A zero-blacklash actuator with irreversability, like a mini-LA without backlash would be great for fixing all these backlashing directions !

I will order these bricks and offer them with your pdf in a nice box to my nephew for Christmas.

Sorry, I did not mean to be mean, in my mind it was like helping, I was just thinking two or three round hole with the socket would make it more reliable for heavy duty, which then would not be limited to the 3×2 or 4×2 liftarm for strong connection. Also when I saw it is for non-geared hub I edited my message, and you're right since it's 3d printed it can be both depending on the model size. And it's true since I don't keep mocs builded I have a lot of old lego pieces, it's must be the reason mine are breaking.

My take on this design is that all cross hole that is half stud wide or on a perpendicular connection (like the 4 on the 5x7 frame) will break on a big motorised model, and the planetary hub is made for those. EDIT : oh, it's not intended for the planetar hub, but only for small cars ?

I think it would need a lot boat weight or a lot of displacement to stop the lean, so maybe it woult take less place to just move the rechargeable battery box.

Damn, I'm impressed by your speed ! You disassemble that thing as fast as you build it ! I took 5 whole hours to build it... (Which was already very fast, on the box it was stated 10+)

If you are low on pieces, maybe you don't have what it need to build an adjustable track tension mechanism like on the #41231 set. https://www.lego.com/fr-fr/service/buildinginstructions/42131 I think it will do fine verticaly. But maybe it is not lost horizontaly, if #71374 doesn't use guides you can add them with whatever piece, put plates just below the chain so it will slide on it all the way because it support it. If not enough add supports in front and at the back of the visible part of the track, so the section of what you added form a "U". A such long support at the bottom, a long support at the top, with no slack so the tracks can't hang. I think it will be fine like this. As whatever plate is good for that, you can get cheap on the wall in an official legostore, if you need specific pieces, majority of lego pieces are 0.2$ on bricklink.com

I guess there was a sorta electrical version of this in the dog thing in the multi control set back in 93. https://lego.brickinstructions.com/lego_instructions/set/8082/Universal_Set_with_two_otors

I like this, what is the piece used as wheelhub ? I guess you can put gears if you attach the back of turntable a stud higher (but it will be less stiff) and use T-shape liftarm on the front. https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=60484&name=Technic, Liftarm, Modified T-Shape Thick 3 x 3&category=[Technic, Liftarm]#T=P

Hello, fantastic ! The rebrickable link is dead.

Lovely ! We can't see, what does prevent the springs to pop out the 3L perpandicular beam witch it is attached to ?

It could be that the yellow string make a turn around the (ballpin ?) at the edge of the gray lever and make a loop under the sail so you can operate the lever by making turns with the string on the 8t.