Berthil

@Stereo That's quick and looks good! I will print one when another print (LEGO sorting trays) is done. With 'support for critical ereas only' enabled, there are only 3 extra supports on the 2nd opening of the 2 x 4 areas between the tracks (looking at it with the ends facing downwards). There seems to be a small irregularity between stud opening 2 and 3 when slicing the part, I can send a screenshot if you need one. The DBG filament is on order so will print them all soon. Thank you again! Edit, uploaded the screenshot with area marked here. I see these are probably caused by the radius indication as in your example.

That might well be and probably the best way to go. I've printed overhangs above openings of 2 cm without supports. I'm sure the antistud pattern would help there but of course have no use on the bend sections. The track end underside already has a high clutch power so adding more clutch power with the antistud pattern is not needed.

@Stereo I've printed two in basic PLA: The two pieces connect with some resistance and stay together well. The 'click' when connecting with standard LEGO tracks was NOT there at the start. After connecting about ten times the click started to appear. I can image that with PLA the resistance could become less when attaching and detaching the printed track pieces a lot. The printed pieces connect well with standard LEGO tracks, the connecting 'click' is present. There is NO clutch power on the studs! These are too small. There is good clutch power on the underside of the track ends (to connect with a 2 x 6 plate). The tracks need to be printed with supports according to Bambu Studio. This means there are a lot of supports to fill the cavities on the underside of the tracks. It is cumbersome to remove all the support from the printing plate. I can't imagine printing a lot of tracks like that. A solid underside would probably be best (except underside of the track ends), or some build in temporary support for the tracks ends to try to print the design without supports.

@Stereo I got the file, thank you! I'm waiting for Black Friday to order filament that resembles DBG and will print when I get it. I will let you know how the fitment is. Edit, I can print a few in black PLA tomorrow and will let you know, it's only 24 gr. per track with 4 wall loops and 15% Cross Hatch Infill.

That's a great effort! I don't have an Onshape account and am looking for standard curves but in the narrow track radius (not sure what the radius is). I'm using tracks within the narrow track curves for narrow radius in this GBC setups at shows but trains derail frequently at the connection points with standard tracks. If would be great if you would have an STL file available for me with a curve piece with a smaller radius that would fit exactly inside the R40 with a crossover pieces inside (or switch with a curve). I don't know what radius that is but maybe you can calculate please? I recently got a Bambu P1S and the print quality is great so would be very nice to be able to print and use on small tables at LEGO events.

Great module!

@Fyredog I really like the return and exit, nice job! Enjoy the show!

@Fyredog good idea! I''ll do the same but shift the 5L liftarm one hole up and use an axle pin and 3L pin with stop bush to give it a bit more rigidity.

Nice exit ramp instead of the 3mm hoses! And nice coverup of the 40t gear in the front. I see a jerky movement in the first small belt after the bucket lifter, and also the 2nd belt but less. It seems you have friction somewhere but I see the two universal joints to the first belt are not aligned so that is good. Check why that belt is not moving smoothly as it also may be the cause of other problems, everything is linked (spoiler )

Good suggestion! Always better to support axles on both sides. I like it when such things are mechanically locked so I will look into it and may be try to mechanically lock the axle end and add it to the list of improvements. Also a good suggestion. I'll run all the mods during two upcoming shows and try to make instructions during fall/winter.

Correct, I had updated the image but not the text, found a solution without the crank shaft.

Generally the blue 12t gears have less friction than the beveled 12t gears. But for esthetics I've kept the black beveled gears in my physical build and it runs fine.

@Fyredog Thank you for your kind words and happy to read it brings challenges and satisfaction :) Problem is that I can't update the original instructions without starting from scratch because Studio messes up all the steps after a change, a tremendous task. With the open wall sides the spiral lift works well for me but it can't handle a lot of balls at once well. I don't use the rubber band anymore on Bob because I run the BF at position three on the train controller at shows, not faster. I've made screen shots of the changes I made, these were tested in a 2h run without problems. Majority for less friction and keep parts in place at prolonged operation. Description below the image (click for a larger version on Flickr), parts involved are highlighted in the images. Less friction and lock for the 8t gear for the ball pusher via a 4 x 2 liftarm (32140). This will push the bucket on the Wheel back in place when Bob did not place it right. I've used a short 3mm yellow rigid hose but a 3L yellow bar should also work. At what makes Bob turn, two of the new 3386 parts (Brick, Round 1 x 1 x 2/3 Half Circle Extended with Stud on Side) and a 2 x 4 plate (instead of the 2 x 3 plate) to secure part 6192 (Slope, Curved 2 x 4 Double with Groove). Extra guides for the Bucket Lifter with 1 x 3 thin liftarms, sometimes it would not drop. Connector to keep the Bucket Emptier a little bit higher, sometimes it would not slide because of interference. Extra force to keep the connection in place, sometimes the 32L would pull out of the connector. Extra brace for Bob. Brace for the second bucket belt, sometimes this would come up. Extra connectors for the Ball Picker, sometimes this would come loose Extra support for the axle end to keep the 12t gear in place and reduce friction. The new part 5713 (Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Hub with 3L Axle) is used here. Enjoy!

@Fyredog nice work! I'm converting this FlipSwitch to a Ball Factory (BF) feed module. I plan to run the BF for a week at the upcoming LEGO World in Utrecht. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-225753/Berthil/flipswitch-gbc/ A timed gate (by the BF) should let through two balls for the BF, excess of balls should go around the BF. There will be a switch to let all balls go around the BF when there are problems with it. I've done a few changes to BF, I'll document them when the feed module is ready. In winter I might update the building instruction.

@MikeTheBuilder Works, great effort!