SNIPE

Compact, can be built with smaller gears and stud less beams too: Use the worm gear to select between the forward gear and the reverse gear. The worm gear would still slide if the motor were connected to one of the spur gear axles. I'm not sure if you mean inline as in parallel or inline from axle end - to end but there's bevel/crown gears for that

Oh right, shame PF cant do this. I haven't used 9v in years i'm trying to make a simpler/lighter version in LDD

Ohh, Sorry I was looking at the .lxf Wont one motor rotate the opposite way as the one opposite to it? say one rear opposite to the other rear

The car only has 2 motors?

EPICNESS But why 2 RC units?

Thanks, I made a model of just one brick then deleted the part from the lxfml file I exported it as now it opens a blank area in LDD , then I made the lxfml file read only so LDD cant change it. Now I just build on the blank area and use save as in the file menu if I want to save. I m using it on Mac OSX for possible future reference

Hi, Is there something I can do to stop Lego Digital Designer from showing 'recent models'? I have tried removing the line 'recent models' from preferences.ini and setting that file to read only for all users but even though it now is not being written to LDD is STILL showing recent models, however when I remove the line from preferences.ini LDD does not show any recent models until I open an .lxf file again Reason being as it makes LDD take ages to open and unless I keep removing them from the preferences.ini file each time it will keep on doing it. Regards, Snipe

I always stack my books up , this is even thicker than the 8448 books 1 and 2 combined, and this is only for one model!

will the pneumatic cylinders need modifying, the wheels just move the engine when the car is pushed along so I don't need pneumatic tubing or anything.

How about I keep the pneumatic engine but just drive it by the wheels (push it manually) or by a motor, it doesn't need to go fast I just want a big technic model with an engine and all the other parts working instead of just using a typical technic engine which has few parts. Here I'd like to see the engine working and the one way clutch doing its stuff , same goes for the supercharger and steering/suspension etc. im not quite sure how to make a 1 cylinder pneumatic engine.

I had a lot of trouble finding plenty of steer and suspension articulation which I think is important, because you can turn in small spaces and there is less of a limit for when the spring bottoms out, and the ride height be can adjusted more this way. until I build the first example I posted. it does have some problems such as bump steer, You just have to stick with it and try and most of the time it will be possible in lego.

That's just a 6536 connector

I got an 8070 for christmas and so far I've added better steering and suspension geometry and 4wd as well as a v10. I'd like to see an lxf of the gearbox too as I plan to add more functions to it such as my drive selector mechanism controlled by the gear lever (front, rear or 4wd)

I've changed some it it round in LDD so it has a diff on all wheels and independent suspension, also parts/assemblies not needed are removed or simplified. now there is a lot of room to add more mechanisms, this model is quite complicated so I say its worth the money. its also the largest technic set so they clearly have made a good effort designing it, especially the boom.

Yes there is a gap between them, even a double bush will fit on if its directly above the worm gear so it sits in the groove on the bush.

I'm not sure I follow, normally you use a gear lever to move it between 1 or two gears, How does it work with this ?

How do you move the light grey inner clutch ring from one 16 tooth idler gear to the other?

Really? I thought some pneumatic engines would be way faster than a lego electric motor. I want to use a pneumatic engine as its different and is harder, never made one before and its easy to stick an electric motor on to a car where as here you have to build the engine and the clutch from several parts. Im very sure I've seen very fast lego pneumatic engines, I don't think having more cylinders makes so much difference because I've seen V8's with high RPM but smaller engines with just as much or more, and the car is going to be compact so i'm just using a single cylinder.

Ok, that's a good thing, this is for an F1 sort of car, it will be bigger than normal technic F1 sets.

Hi, Is there any way I can drive a 1 cylinder pneumatic engine from inside of the car, I have seen external air compressors. I don't really need to store the air, more use it at around the same time as its drawn in and compressed. I'm hoping to use something like nicjasno's engines but a 1 cylinder to keep it compact (I can lie this down flat or upright.) and ill make it as minimal as possible so the engine is light, but I don't know how much air pressure id need, maybe around 2 bar but this is a wild guess.

In the first picture there's a bit sticking out around the center hole, it looks like it was removed now though so it should be easier to mount, if you take a tiny bit off the ball sockets it should be slacker for the steering. are you selling any of these? The lip round the middle hole

nice design, how tight would the bio'nicle parts be in the sockets? wouldn't the outer '+' hub be better if it didn't have the bit sticking out in the middle center as I like having the hub practically inside of the wheel so it is closer to the pivot of the CV joint

I also agree that the 8880 is the best, back then there was few studless parts and they still managed t add lots of gears and mechanisms to it, back when I didn't know better I thought the 8448 was better and more complex but I was wrong. I prefer the studded technic era because you can have any gear combination and the beams can be attached normal or offset without needing connectors.

Perhaps something like this can be used as an automatic switch to drive the other wheel, when the diff kicks in as a closed diff the change in direction can drive the worm gear which goes to another gear that drives the opposite wheel Here is a mock-up of the idea: If this doesnt work try the older diff and put the worm gear onto the gears on the diff. I recon this has massive implementations not just for diffs. Regards, Snipe

Hi, Thanks for the replies, yes its a tri-star wheel I'm after, After trying each idea I think Darsedz' idea is the best as it is the strongest and is fairly centered, so it will either be my original idea or his up to now. I think axles supporting this will be too weak as axles bend easily under load and I couldn't seem to fit a bracket with a hole in-between because the gaps on each point of the triangle is less than 1L. Philos idea looked good but it didnt line up on the last hole needed, it was simular to my original but was less offset. I heard a triangle is the strongest shape which is why girders have that pattern and for a square you'd need more motors, more wheels, more gears/chains