Burko-uk

Thanks for responding, Having gone to get a screen shot I found a couple of unwanted code blocks that had slipped in somehow - careless user no doubt. Deleted those and it worked. Why is the visible work space so small!?!

For better or worse I thought I'd take the plunge and make a custom Powered Up control program using the Powered Up app. It' is already proving to be a mistake. Late to the game I'm powering my Defender and I want two motors for drive, one for steering and one for a gear change (just hi/lo), however before getting carried away I thought I'd make a controller with four slider controls to individually drive four motors just so I can fiddle with motor positions and do noddy testing during this and future builds before doing a proper code; a development tool if you like. I've followed youtube video guides from RacingBrick and Sariel, which make it look clear and simple and I cannot see that I've missed anything. I've got four sliders with four code blocks appropriately linked to slider and motor IDs, just like the videos. The hub is connected, but nothing happens. Move any of the sliders and zilch. Is there something stupid I'm missing?

This is amazing!

Cool idea, and a great little car. Not everything has to be 50 studs long!!

Wow! I am absolutely blown away to have won. Never thought for a moment I would, so thank you very much everyone who took part, who voted, and Milan and Jim for running another great competition.

I like the new voting site and rules - I'm guaranteed at least one point!! I'd also leave it up for two weeks, as some of us don't visit the forum as often as we'd like, so a fortnight gives busy folks a greater chance to vote. As always, thanks to Jim and Milan for arranging the competition.

Hand of god or not, that's awesome!

You don't have to have a differential. You do have to support your driving axles though. Might be worth buying some more complex sets to see how Lego do it. Alternatively Lego host all their official instructions on their website, so you could browse those to see how they build axles. For the size of car you are producing, I'd suggest some of the trucks such as 42112 or 42128 for a guide on how to build a powered axle. These sets take drive from the wheels to power functions on the vehicle rather than being motorised like you are doing, but the principles are the same whichever direction power is going.

I'm enjoying the totally inappropriate weather for the subject :)

That ferries wheel is amazing!

Looks great. We just need three more last minute entries to complete the theme!

I love the trailer addition. I keep pondering things to do with a unimog. A trailer has never crossed my mind, but opens so many possibilities.

How to make something simple really complicated...

I didn't take any pictures during building, but when I disassemble it I'll take a few pics if you would like. I'm still enjoying releasing penguins for now! Thanks to all for the kind words. I'm delighted it's had such a positive response!

I was hoping no one would notice that. Unfortunately my ten year old son pointed it out about 5% of the way through the build. I then hoped no one here would notice.... I'm choosing to interpret "Artic" in the competition title to mean more broadly "Polar". If we want to play that game, most of the tracked machines in the contest so far would likely fall through the Arctic ice!!!

Mobile Penguin Washing Station Functions: Penguin Grabber Arm Hot tub washing Bath Transfer Mechanism Hairdryers Penguin Release Mechanism. Video of the vehicle in operation Discussion Topic Thanks, Paul.

Hi all, This is my entry for the Arctic Vehicle Competition - a Mobile Penguin Washing Station. I figured tracked Haggllund type vehicles would be pretty common so tried to add a bit of variety/novelty. This is a tracked vehicle, but is equipped with a parallel grabber arm, a hot tub, a transfer mechanism to move the penguin to the drying platform which is fitted with twin hairdryers, and a penguin release mechanism. There is an M-motor powered compressor buried under the body work, providing power to the grabber arm and penguin release mechanism, along with direction control gearboxes to drive the crane turntable and the transfer mechanism. Finally there's a selector gearbox to drive the hairdryers or power the transfer mechanism meaning you can't move the penguin from the hot tub to the drying platform with the hairdryers running, as that would be unsafe and we don't want to harm any animals here! Here's a video showing the Penguin Cleaning process. And finally, a big thank you to my willing volunteer: He is clearly delighted and refreshed. I hope you like it. I don't MOC much, don't post much, and this is the first video I've tried to edit, so go easy...

Ikea Moppe drawers are just over 11 studs high. Perfect for storing "those" panels upright. The drawers are a good size to just chuck the curved panels in and rummage for what you need. The bigger unit has three different drawer sizes to suit individual collections. I use them as bins for storing liftarms too.

I had a go at 42114 myself, with dubious results. I left the gearbox in place, and tried to control it with a geared down M motor to keep it true to the original. Didn't work, so left the gearbox in place with a manual selector lever (which rather defeats the point but there we go). End result was a LOT of clicky noises when trying to drive and turn, so not sure what I've messed up. Got distracted by other things, but I will go back to it at some point. I did manage to fit the battery box in place of the Control Module, and rammed the IR in the cab space. Fundamentally for such a big model, there's surprising little space in it!

The alignment of the gear tooth pitch, to the central cross hole which means the steering wheel in the cabin is NEVER exactly straight ahead when the wheels are straight ahead. NRGH! On this basis alone I prefer fake steering wheels.

I'm happy to not have fifty posts, so don't have to pick a top 6! Good to see so many entries - clearly a good topic. Maybe in the future we can do the same but reversed - studded versions of studless models?

Thank you! Yeah, I know what you mean about the beams on the back. It bugged me too. That said, it's been a week or two since I built it and I can now see ways to make that work, but I guess it's too late to fix it now... ho hum. I'll work on the basis that as a studless recreation, with the panel on the back they are un-necessary, and therefore their absence is legitimate. At least that's the excuse I'm going to use.

I think it's done, but the images still look the same size? It'd be fair to say that forum posts aren't my speciality...

10. Pneumatic Excavator Original set: 8837 Features: Combined HOG steering / body slewing Pneumatic lifting arm Pneumatic Bucket Discussion topic: [TC20] 8837 Pneumatic Excavator - LEGO Technic and Model Team - Eurobricks Forums Photos: (Original and Studless)

This is my effort for the TC20 competition - 8837 Pneumatic Excavator. To my mind a perfect technic set. Classic vehicle with proper functions without being a huge model, with a little trick feature for the steering/pivoting. I think my studless version is pretty faithful to the original. The only difference is that you pull the light up to steer, when the original pushes the light down to steer - the studless bevel gears are less interchangable than the old crown-wheel gears. Hope you like it