Teddy

Thanks BleuBard. Thanks, pinky and the Brain was one of the sources of inspiration for this MOC. I really liked Pinky and the Brain. It's not on television here anymore... Kind regards, Teddy

Teddy's cat, Mr. Whiskers, is the head of an evil syndicate. Every night he conceives a new evil plan in his office and tries to take over the (Lego) world. See Mr. Whiskers as he plots a new attempt at (Lego) world domination. Teddy: "Mr. Whiskers, what will we do tonight?" Mr. Whiskers: "As we do every night: try to take over the (Lego) world! Bwhahaha (evil cat laughter)" Mr. Whiskers and Teddy planning: Come Mr. Whiskers, let's go and start our genious plan... Mr. Whiskers and Teddy have left to employ Mr. Whiskers latest plan...

Dear Joey Lock, this isn't a large surface, but i think it gives an idea of what I meant. http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Johanvan...f0966correl.jpg Kind regards, Teddy

Too cool! Simply amazing.

Dear all, personally I prefer tiling my deks. Because with tiling you can create the illusion of planking which gives a ship MOC an additional level of detail. For regular floors in buildings I prefer to combine old-brown with new-brown. To give it a wood impression. But, for me, the choice for deck tiling is definitely tan. On old ships the deck was scrubbed regularly and the surface was kept rough (with no finishing) to give the sailors more "grip". So they wouldn't slip in rough weather. The actual color of planking depends on: the type of wood, the age of the wood, has it been scrubbed recently, and is it wet. Relatively new ships who had their deks scrubbed would commonly have a tan colored deck. Before scrubbing it could be more like dark tan or even grey. When wet it can even appear a bit "light" brownish. Overall most decks have a more or less uniform color. The color deviations are commonly much smaller than the color difference between dark-tan and tan is in Lego bricks. I've experimented with dark tan and a combination dark en regular tan. And i've tested a combination with old-grey, since old-grey is yellowish. The bottom two pictures below depict the result. personally, I thought only dark tan was too dark when used on larger surfaces to do the job. I'm also not convinced that combining tan and dark-tan is a good option. Since, the color difference between tan and dark-tan is much larger than color differences which occur on a given day in "real" ship planking. Old grey is a bit too gray for my taste. Lacking a color inbetween tan and old-gray, I prefer to use tan. Well this is my experience and opinion of course. Hope this helps a bit. Kind regards, Teddy Deck planking inside a ship (HMS Victory): Lego tiles (tan, dark-tan, old-gray):

The updates you made are great! I like the current color scheme better than that of version 2. The interior is also improved by making the top floors appear to be planked. Also the tiling with dark blue at the first floor gives a pleasing effect. I really like all the small interior details you've put in here. Kind regards, Teddy

Dear Koffiemoc, just checked your flickr folder. The vehicles are really "old-school" so verry Classic Town. And the interiot detailing of th ebuildings is great as well. So a verry good entry. Kind regards, Teddy

Dear Hinckley, I really love this entry. It has 70s and early 80s written all over it. Kind regards, Teddy

Thanks for the compliment! Puttint my scattered town buildings togheter for a photo shoot is a good idea. Although, the scale of my fire station and train station is quite large compared to my Classic Town entry. Both buildings would fit inside the train station simultaniously. Recently I got some new software and I've edited my original high resolution photos a bit with a background and I tried to make them easier on the eye. I think the current updated photos (first post) fit better to the 70s and 80s catalog "style" of photos. To be sure they are accepted for the contest, I asked permission to Whitefang and TheBrickster to edit them. Kind regards, Teddy

This is a really original and beautyfully executed entry. I can''t remember seeing a horse races MOC like this before. Wether it is classic or not? I do remember an 80s poster of a car race in Lego City with similar stands. So I think it has the "Classic" look. But this is my opinion and therefore arbitrary ofcourse. Kind regards, Teddy

This is a great evolution! Taking the castle to yet another level. I noticed you've kept most towers at the same position and more or less the same form as in stage 3. The church is done really great in such a tight spot. I'm wondering how you connected the grey wall between the arch and the green plates. And how you locked it in position? Or is it held in position by the pressure of the surrounding bricks? Overall, the castle is really amazingly tightly packed with amazing details. I really like your creative use of panels and arches. The combination of that technique and you're latest rock technique makes this one amazing build. Kind regards, Teddy

Congrats Thrash on winning! And congrats to the other winners as well. I'll be looking forward to seeing these weapons in your MOCs. Kind regards, Teddy

Ohh thanks Whitefang. should have read the rules even better. Can't believe I didn't notice the two door requirement after painstakingly sticking to the Classic Town style. Thanks for still accepting my entry! Hurray. This calls for a parade around my room. Come on prince carnaval, lets parade with the star wars figs on my desk. Kind regards, Teddy

Dear Tom Bricks, I really like your entry! what a nice monorail. Hopefully we will get one this year. (keeps fingers crossed: so typing this message takes more time than usuall. ) i like your buildings and the cars are verry nicely done. Kind regards, Teddy

Wow, how could I have missed this before?.. This is absolutely stunning. I think I'm going to enjoy those photos for a while and look at all the beautyful details. This is just how a "ship of the line" should look, if Lego will ever make one within the pirate theme. Please Lego, please, give us ships like this. Thumbs up. Teddy

Hi Guys, thanks for all the cool replies! I have to admit I found it quite a challenge to build something "old-school". It was really difficult not to use modern colors and techniques to maitain a classic "look". So thumbs up to the other builders in this contest, because I found it is harder than I initially thought. Thanks CGH. I might just use him as a sigfig. Only thing missing is a coffee machine and a coffeemug. I added the original largere photos to my brickshelf folder. I spend quite some time getting a descent photo. Somehow I couldn't get the lighting right and the photos kept on getting blurry. I guess that is why photography is an art form in itself. kind regards, Teddy Larger photo angled view Larger photo front view Larger photo back view

Dear all, this is my entry for the Classic Town Contest. Carnaval is celabrated in (Classic) Town! The parade has started and everybody is all dressed up and watching the parade outside. After much anticipating, finally the arrival of Prince Carnaval! Hope you like my creation. Kind regards, Teddy You can buy your Carnaval kit in the Carnaval shop (yellow building), and have a drink (beer) or snack outside in the Town restaurant or at the snack bar: <edit: I've included the larger original photos in my brickshelf folder> Larger photo angled view Larger photo front view Larger photo back view Angled view Front view: Backside:

Thanks for all the cool replies. This weekend I found some time to do some updates. I made a new courtyard building and updated the old ones. Next to this I used my girlfriends camera for better quality photos, and used new software to clean up the background of the photos. So here is a sample of the photos and some links to the new buildings. Kind regards, Teddy The current courtyard: The courtyard buildings: details: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Johanvan...f0959correl.jpg http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Johanvan...f0961correl.jpg http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Johanvan...f0963correl.jpg http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Johanvan...f0966correl.jpg

Dear CGH, the black line looks amazing. Are you planning to tile over the studs on the side? Or do you leave all/some of them to represent copper nails? The black line looks really good on those photos. Only nitpick could be the last seven 1x1x1 snot bricks at the bow. The line seems to wobble a bit at the end, and end a bit to low, but that could be the camera angle. Keep it up. And congrats with the first anniversary of your beautyfull ship. Kind regards, Teddy

Dear Joey, Looking good so far. I'm curious how the hight versus width and lenght will work out. In my humble experience the heigth of the mid section should not exceed the maximum width of the mid section for it too "look good". Of course the stern and forecastle can be higher. And as Errorist says the rule of thumb for length is: length of the hull is 4 times the maximum with. But of course you can stretch those general rules somewhat and still achieve a great looking result. *Captain Weedhair* ? Man, I should have known there was something funky going on there. Kind regards, Teddy

Dear all, just wanted to check if there still is some life in the city community build project? I did not check EB lately, since I was busy with work.. And surfing on EB always seems to take longer than anticipated. Kind regards, Teddy

Hmm, I'm just reading all the pros and cons posted here for the last few days. pros: -more complex rail layouts -remote control -various processors can be integrated tapping in the same power supply -flexible system to motorize different size trains -various motor types -9V battery powered "old-school" motor cons: -bulky motor (in emirald night) -bulky battery box -easy "hackable" control system (someone with a remote can highjack your train) -difficult back-wards compatibility into older train sets. -recharging an ever increasing stack of batteries. In my honoust opinion: -They should have stuk with metal rail for the power supply and feed the PF from there. 60 Euro on a battery or 60 Euro on metal track.. I'm not seeing the advantage of batteries yet. I'm really wondering if there is a cheap way to customize the plastic tracks to metal tracks. And provide metal surface wheels to direct the track power to the PF system. Maybe a small business opportunity there? -The remote control could have been slightly more advanced for similar cost to prevent highjacking. Mark Bellis his idea is a good option. But to be honoust the additional cost for lego to provide some more advaced control electronics is close to zero. E.G a full bluetooth receiver is just between 1 to 2 Dollars for bulk purchases. And such a receiver is many orders of magnitude more complex than the current infrared system. So why they didn't inlude a more advanced controle system is and will remain a question mark for me. Kind regards, Teddy

Dear Cavannus, thanks for your reply. I'm quite aware of P=VI. I emphasized the mAh, since the voltage is standardized and the mAh is what is different when you buy AA (rechargeable) batteries in a store. But, the main driver in how long you can use a batterie on a single charge is the actual load on which you connect the batterie. So the more Energy or (since voltage is standardized) the more mAh the longer the batterie will last on a given load on a single charge. I wasn't aware though that the standard voltage for a lithium-polymer cell was 3.7 V. I just wanted to let all the Lego fans here know, that there is nothing wrong with a 7.4 V rechargeable batterie in what is supposed to be a 9V battery powered system. ---of topic--- I do think it is kind of disturbing though, that the energy density of the newest batteries is starting to approach the order of magnitude of the energie density of TNT explosives; +/_1MJ/kg vs 8.3MJ/kg. Hopefully, the safety circuits work well on those new batteries in case of a shortcircuit or we might loose a train in spectacular fashion the future. ---on topic--- Kind regards, Teddy

Hi CP5670, if you would drive them at 9V plugged powered, than the motors will have 21% more power available. Which is quite a lot. I think, if you want to interface the curren Pf whit the old 9V system it can be done fairly easy. Basically we would need some metal surface on a pair of wheels, with either wheel connented to a pin of which we can get the current from the track. And than just use these pins as the GND and 9V pins. A little soldiering on a contact will suffice. Hope this helps? Kind regards, Johan

Dear CP5670, as I wrote before regarding the 7.4V rechargeable battery in a 9V system. It is usefull in the current technic system because a technic battery box with 6 1.5V regular AA batteries are only 9V in the beginning and quickly converges to 7.2V. Kind regards, Teddy