Foxw

i strongly suggest by type. Easier to pick a color out then a part varient Go with type. way easier to pick out a color then a part in a bin of color

Okay, i recently got one of these. Yes you can replace the battery. Here's how without damage. Along the 4stud wide side in the groove beside the battery you'll find a tab clip. Push that in n up with a small slot screwdriver this will release the cover then you have to gently pry up the rest. Treat it like you were seperating a screen parts of a cell phone and it will seperate.

Aside from fact that Diseny owns both and is known for some of the highest licence fees around, non at all. i myself don't like the price. but ideas sets are htf n rarely get restocked in my neck o'da woods, so prolly have to bite that bullet as can't use amazon *requires a credit card which i'm opposed to.

thanks for the lead on the wireing. actually, i don't solder to the 4755's (not yet to point i want to harm my lego parts), but i find i just line up the wires and let contact pressure do more then enough. and ya, the parallel is the way to go, sadly i had to for that photo run 3 separate circuits off 1 psu (wound up needing wall power), because of the magnet wires low amperage capacity. and smds are great, the crazy small ones ya need a jig, and you pre-solder the wires then place n heat via wire not component like with old style leds

Berthil. i might suggest using parts like 4755 1x2 w/contacts or its brothers, in place of the usual 1x4 w/2 studs they can conduct your power between floors, just make sure to have each floor on a 'pass on' circuit, ie fl1 has its lights & the power feed to upstairs , else lights will only come on when all hooked up (you clearly understand this from your pictures, but felt should clarify, for everyone else) also, you might want to consider 0.04 SMDs, yes they are a nightmare to solder but so tiny and give off less heat. as an example my other hobby is plastic model mecha. plamo plastic is VERY temp sensitive. slighted heat will warp the stuff. but thanks to smds i pulled off this but far as the tubing idea, yes LOVE IT, so stealing that idea edit 2: :| i'm also jelous, i've hunted for 5 yrs to find 0.04mm braided wire my way, (canada), all anyone has now is that magnet wire stuff in that size, which is okay, but can't carry the amperage to run over 2 smds on a single circuit.

Well, tbh, once you start organizing, you will mostly have to redo it more then a few times as collection grows. I know, lord knows i've had to stop, re-evaluate, and start all over as method fell behind capacity, aka couldn't keep the collection organized so i didn't have to hunt for 30 min for 1 part. ranting point being, we've All already done it, it's just part of the process, you'll come to terms as you go through the phases of being a AFOL. Oh and welcome to Eurobricks.

well, theres bricklink, brickowl & PAB walls if you have a brand store nearby & what you want is there. btw, welcome to the community.

actually what MAB, I think, was referring to with the "manufacturing presence" IS the contracting out of production for certain things IN China while they moved forward with construction and final opening on Nov 25 2016 for production. Yes they wanted it in 2014, but well, uphill battle n all, so only 4 years after the CMF line started. or why he also said "at least", it's a nitpick, BUT ANYWAYS, my point being they've used china plants to help offset costs for awhile, I have a Lego games minatorus that referenced china as one of the component parts of origin on the box. so that does count as a presence. course in this day n age what doesn't have some part in some small fraction made in china (DIY or "all x country" doesn't count for this statement) well the ban was on discussing thier products as i recall, as this topic is in relation to TLG's legal action against them, i can't see why it should be, the result's of this action will likely have far reacting implications for the community after all

first off, I don't support LEPIN or any company that participates in underhanded counterfeiting. okay onto the point. it's actually a fact of life that many of the brands we buy today, exspecially in technology were once "clone brands". ACER, LENOVO and half the cell phone market are all currently populated by companies who started with copying an existing product (resulting in usually a cheeper in all ways including functionality, option). okay, in the world of the brick, ANY company can create a 2x4 brick just like lego's now without penalty or repercussions, long as it doesn't say LEGO on it. TLG did not renew thier patent and as such released the basic structure to open domain. It's a fact of life. Many of the alternative "moral brands", like MegaBlocks/latest name of the month, and even Best Lock, to name 2 i see locally here in canada, are yes making thier 2x4's exactly how LEGO does it (minus logo) as that gives them a huge benefit of being 100% compatible with LEGO. that's why other Block companies are not about to alter dimensions or such, change one thing even a fracttion and it'll lose the compatibility factor, which IS a huge selling point. Far as this topic goes, Court cases, especially in hostile legal enviro's like CHINA (if your a non chinese company), can Take years between filing and ruling. Hell wasn't LEGO in court for like 3+years with Mega brands over mega blocks originally, even though that one resulted in a loss for LEGO. Point being even if they started proceedings this year, it may well not be resolved untill eairly next year. Civil cases drag on forever, especially at the company level.

fabulandlover: uh ya, less your supremely rich (or fund them at a silly low clearence) avoid the brand storage box's. your best bang for the buck will be to check your local dollar store for the clear plastic toates. only because you'll need alot of them

oh yeah, it can be a major time suck. but once you are done you only have to manually track loose bricks as BS & BL can be imported. plus you can export the list to have a saved backup (or reference when unable to go online)

yeah between that and brickset inporting, then one only needs to account for "thrift finds" I litterally went as far before i started my current reorganize of my sorting system, as grabbing every manual, picking every set list for each set (setting all those parts aside in a "from sets" bin, then what was left came from BL / thrift buying. This basically sucked up like two full weekends off, but at least now I just need to worry about keeping on top of logging loose bricks as sets import from BSet and BL's covered. It's crazy, but i like having it for when i do my stud.io sketch's of an idea, it let's me know what i have to use even when i'm not home (I export the list after updating so it's on my laptop just in case)

Okay, first off, if you want to go MOC, it's basically an addiction, minute you cross that threshold from set sheep to imagination unleashed mode it's hard to go back. at which point you'll find going with a properly itemized system will be best. plus side if you feel like putting a set back together you can just pick the parts. Fabulanndlover, if your going to stock up i would suggest 1xN from 1x1 through to 1x6 as you'll find especially in buildings, the most useful, as well as stocking up on SNOT pieces. can never have enough 1x snot parts.

(technically last night). 1 nib 3841 Minitorus given 6195 in rough shape. and one 5lb thrift store bucket.

O.M.F.G...... christ man. i don't know where to start. just... wow.

well, i only came out 18 months ago, but so far 9 months or so in lego, 4-5 yrs if you count kre-o (hasbros short attempt, only got into that cuz well TF n me go back 30 yrs till hasbro killed it for me by preschooling thier entire lines). yet to post anything to show, just not sure i'm there yet.

i ran into this one a "lot" inka sword before. likely it's a short on the board, disassemble, pull the black part out , take a soft head eraser, and clean the contact on the board should fix it if its just corrosion

Andy. i feel your pain. closest i've found a lug is 2 hrs away (bit too far atm for me) and little luck assembing a group locally as all i've found are scalper types. Spock. never realised you were from the TO area.

thats actually my goal, blending technic/system and ccbs to do mechs, though i love caleb L's piloted mechs

yes and scalpers are a right down there with politicians. but if your serious, go check lego.com. that will tell you the rrp for it. on BL it can be had for 129$ & is still for sale in non NA for €149.99

cuz he's using photobucket and they've put a cap on off site linking/bandwidth. it will reset or he'll have to' change services

to the forums btw Marc. firstly what region are you in. IF your in North america, then it May have been something Samsonite added as they were not above adding sets/gear etc especially in the 80;s/90's when they were the distributor on this side of the pond. given nothing listed in bricklink seems to match what your describing, it may well of been a rare country exclusive item. might need to bring the forums resident "history" guru in on this conundrum.

Frankly, if your ultimate goal is mega organized, which your comment points to, then best just take the plunge sooner then later, and figure out HOW minute you are willing to sort. I know for me i started with with bins like "pins" in 1 draw, liftarms in another etc, not separated by subtype or pin, but be conscious of fact that it can quickly fill and instead of looking for that one friction pin or 4L liftarm for 5 seconds can turn into 5min. so either you start out at every part id has it's own bin, or accept the fact that in time you WILL have to reorganize to separate out by design ID (ie friction pin, regardless of color), then eventually Design ID, further sorted by part id (IE "Friction pin/ split by color") at times i wish i'd just started at the last stage, cuz reorganizing it all takes awhile. as to HOW you store, that really is a matter of personal preference and room. For those lucky AFOLS who can dedicate a room/space to our building, Drawer cabinet's seem to be the most popular. which point all i can suggest is find a type you like and can hold a fair amount PER bin (aka drawer) then stick to one type/brand as will make organizing your cabinets easier (god i wish i'd had that pointed out to me long ago). Obviously at some point you'll wind up with "overflow", a surplus of a certain part thqt you'll just not likely use immediately, and cheap bins from dollar stores are a good option there. And for any one who's noticed how often i comment in this thread, YES i will be posting pics of my setup, just sorta in stage of converting from types atm and not content with it atm to take pics, But i swear i will once i'm happy, or prolly before as i rarely seem to be happy with it.

Well, Mahalo. ATM It's sorted by part type (non color specific unless i have ALOT of one color IE LBG 1xn tiles) Far as grouping atm it's mostly by family type. 1 drawer cabinet (DC) has plates, 1 has bricks (1x1 n up, organized by color with no more then 2 types per bin), 2 organizers one for plant stuff and one for clip/bars and the current last DC is my "MIX" group unit, which has all my constant go to things i'm always using, (in my case, tiles, mixel joints LBG and DBG 1x bricks etc) how ever you set it up, try to be consistent and personally, if your going to go with drawer cabinets, make sure the draw is removable as over time, you'll find some parts you'll use more then others and those should be located as close to you to minimize "reach time" while building.. OH and LABEL the drawers, else you WILL go insane.

Pitty it's only for US retailers. but it's a start I guess. Locally here in Canada I just watch flipp.com to watch everyones flyers for sales