Myers Lego Technic
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Everything posted by Myers Lego Technic
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Ah sariel, always the one to find the positive in things. -
(you could say I like the improvements your giving me put it is too much) improvments? Just a wee tad confused.
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Thank you. I really should have gone and dug through my instruction drawers, but fortunately now I do t have to!
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Yes, that was my fourth. No t'as good as the full RC excavator, (set number escapes me know) but a good set nonetheless.
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Weather it is purely in my head or not I don't know, but I truly believe that a physical age makes little to no difference in your capability. (With the exception of past experiences that may effect your building skill) What makes the difference is how LONG you have been building with technic Legos. I am also thirteen but have been building technic Mocs since I was eight, and have over 15000 technic elements in my collection. You are bound to grow and learn and your capabilities will expand. A year ago now I couldn't build gearboxes, and now I have made compact, and completely new types of shifters that work with any number of speeds on a clutch gear gearbox, so, don't get discouraged! So this goes out to all of you, as there are technic builders in there forties who may have only been building for five years, like me. Needless to say I think this is a good start, weather or not it is built the way the technic gods have decreed. (Not pointing fingers or naming names) but if you work on it needless to say you could be the sheepo or madocca of the future. So good luck to you, Sincerely, Myers Lego Technic
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Unfortunately I live in rural British Columbia, and even a hundred euro set would easily be doubled or tripled with duty, shipping and taxes. This was sadly the best deal, as it was in Canada. I wish I could have taken your advice, but shipping from Europe is very difficult! I envy all of you who have a) access to physical Lego stores witching 1000 km (literally) and b) are in Europe. My very best to you all, Sincerely Myers Lego Technic
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Thanks all! I have looked and found it for a bit cheaper. All help was much appreciated.
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42000 What was the original price of the set? Our Canadian dollar is low right now so anything imported is quite expensive.
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Love it!
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Interesting 3rd party pneumatics.
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I was looking for a good quality OFficcual Lego F1 racer from a few years back and I found a very good quality used set with minimal shipping fees for $240 Canadian on Amazon.ca. Is this a good deal? (I would be buying for the peices) or should I keep looking? Sincerely, Myers Lego Technic
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Oh boy. Back to back contests! I'll have to pull my v1's out of the closet!
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You are doing the mighty spyder too?!? As a question, how are you doing the roof? And what scale? I'm doing it in a 1:10.54 with the majority of detail focused in the engine.
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Hey all, I wandered if there is an age restriction. I was able to submit to the MB contest, though I was at, and still am at the bottom of that age limit.
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This should be fun.
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Wow, this is huge!
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Very nice.
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Very nice! You captures the lines well. My only complaint is the gap in the wings. Overall though it is very well done. You don't see many models in this forum to this small scale.
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Thank you very much! I have often wondered about this. I can figure out new gearboxes switchers, or 7 sped paddle shifters, but I can't seem to be able to figure out this! Well, now I know. Thanks again, Myers Lego Technic. Does that mean then that the total height of the rear tires is 35% of 345 mm x 2 + 19" ? I think so, but I am not sure.
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Hello all, I am building a MOC and need help with figuring out the tire and wheel sizes. The site I have accessed (which is the officiall site) gave me the tire and wheel size of the car, which is good. The problem was that the sizes they gave me were very confusing. For the tires it gave me these figures: front- 265/35-19" Y Rear- 345/30-20" Y For the wheels it gave me these figures- front- 19" x 9.5" Rear- 20" x 12.5" What does this all mean? I am sorry if this is a stupid question.
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I agree saberwing, though I would use an Xl motor attached directly to the drivetrain. It has enough speed, and one l motor drive is not enough to go through both differentials and the straight six and to still be playable.
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Articulated as in an articulated hauler, or dump truck? If so you could use a large or even a small turntable, as the pivot point which would be stronger than an axle or a pin. You could also use the ball joint from the customized pick up truck, which works nice. You could even do something similar to the Volvo wheel loader, which has a section articulated in a sort of pivot point suspension style. Hope this helps, but I do not quite understand what you want. The pick up truck ball joint would be perfect for a firm attachment between two different vehicle bodies, and it can carry a u joint if you want both of them driven. I may be young, but with my thirteen years in this eart, five of those being with technic this is the strategy I would use.
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I agree with your comment. Though, like any good MOC, you just have to keep improving!
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Not bad, but the body work only looks like you went 50 percent with it. You have done great on the parts you did, but I can't tell wether you are trying to make it light or are going for the more solid look. In summary I suggest just adding a bit more detail, maybe a bit more in the way of a front bumper, and a passenger seat would be nice too. P.S. If the passenger seat area is where you put you battery box, I would move the BB to the back were the spare is, or even right behind the cab.