-
Posts
201 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by drakmin
-
More progress! Cat for scale :)
-
Random image dump on no specific order :) If you want to stay up to date more easily I post my progress mainly here: @drakmin on Instagram
-
Hey thanks! Nice looking storage with clear drawers. I'd like to build / get led panel lights behind drawers to light up the part collection. Also center island desk: yes! My primary wish currently. I think I'll design and build one with wheels so it could also be moved against a wall. I'll post more renderings when I have first design options ready!
-
I have now modeled the new building room as an empty space from the drawings. Next I'll start designing building desk and drawers for parts. I should be moving in after 9 months :) If you have any good ideas or proved storage systems please let me know! View towards balcony. Right side wall consists of sliding doors, they have 900mm storage depth inside. View towards apartment.
-
Hey do you have already something to show? Update: New Lego room for late autumn 2021! The house is being built right now. It's time to start designing storage system, building desk and lighting! Room dimensions are roughly 3300mm x 2700mm. Glass starts from floor and extends to ceiling! Also here is the state of the X-wing and my part collection:
-
Hi everybody! I have moved so there will be some delay with any progress! But I will finish this model before I die :)
-
Hi! Yes, some minor updates. I have moved into a new apartment. This resulted in a 2 months pause in the building. Anyways, I started again last week by trying to make the opening canopy sleeker. Also you can see that top of the dashboard has been upgraded a bit.
-
First cockpit detailing tests:
-
Thanks! I think I'll experiment with different spacing methods for "macaroni" pieces. I want to use only original Lego pieces so printing is not an option :) I think I won't use even custom stickers :D
-
Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions on how to solve the astromech droid? The round part needs to be 5 studs in diameter :) Below you can see 4 studs version and it looks (and is) too small :)
-
Yup! Sharp eyes and thanks! Actually the large scale allows but also demands for this angled seam. Here's an older photo of the seam:
-
Small update! I've been lately working on the top and rear greebling. Here are first versions of those.
-
Technic Pub
drakmin replied to jantjeuh's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
"Sorry" to hear that. I hope though you will build/buy a brick house ;) -
Image dump aligns quite ok with blueprints some shaping to do around canopy inspecting bricklink order :)
-
I now have this new prototype:
-
ISD Aggressor (Star Destroyer MOC w interior and instructions)
drakmin replied to Raskolnikov's topic in LEGO Star Wars
Loving the colour palette of this order! :) -
I will try to improve it but later :D Actually there might be a solution of making only the front struts upper pivot movable so it could slide more close to the front of the engine when landing gear is fully opened.
-
Hmm, not sure at all if I can make it the 100% correct rear landing gear geometry. Atleast in this scale since it would need variable lenght for each landing gear strut to make them fold. I must remind that the model weights like 20kg :D Later when I see if the wings currently hold the laser cannons horizontal I can see if I can remove some wing structure to have more space for the landing gear mechanism but I doubt it heavily with the current information. Happily I have built everything in pretty modular way so it is always possible the revisit one design area later!
-
This is a good question which I have considered for a long time. In the movies and most scale models the read landing gear seems to be built like in the image below. I think they didn't have to build a version where the landing gear actually fits inside the engine with all the mechanics and is foldable. Also, the geometry like shown below is almost impossible to build so that it would fold inside any reasonable amount of space. I think the movie version is built only thinking about the 1:1 scale models stability on ground on the set. I will build my version like in the next blueprint below. Parallel landing gear struts allow for simple rotational movement and quite compact space when folded. Actually even this parallel version was quite close to impossible to build so that it would fit yet carry the weight of the ship. So basically it is a trade between looking exactly like in the movie or to be functional. Generally I have learnt in many movies the scale models are quite different for each shot :D For example with the snowspeeder the flight model would not fit pilots legs etc. so some compromise and interpretation must be made. Hopefully you can now see my solution acceptable :D
-
One of the engines and rear landing gear range of motion. Landing gear is just a sketch for time being and missing all the details. Making of
-
No need to mention how great the models are :D But in addition I like the circular bases a lot!
-
When placed out of focus, the main hull looks completed already :D I quess I need to use mainly system bricks in the front cone. Not sure yet if the left or right side works better. (sharp or curved edge on the inside) Siege Tank for scale! :)
-
[MOC] Jaguar D-Type 1956
drakmin replied to JamesJT's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I like your model. I like the overall curves. I think the window could benefit from one more grey axle in the dead center or even fully grey frame against the car body. (hope you dont mind my photoshopping) From my experience if you want to pronounce curves you need to shoot closer and because of shorter distance use wider lense. This exaggerates distances, also the distances of curved surfaces. In addition the point of view affects the outcome more the wider the lense. Its quite common for example in fashion photography to shoot the models below waist height to exaggerate their legs. (torso seems smaller this way in the 2d image surface) In addition to shooting distance and field of view the light matters a lot. Flat light is good for neutral photos like these. If you want to pronounce shapes you could try more dramatic light. Imagine only thin ray of light "scanning" through the car body like a laser beam. In real car photos shapes are easier to see since most cars are a lot more reflective than Lego and the reflections help to communicate the shapes to human eye. Some random example photos from google image search: This seems to be actually a drawing but the shape of the car is really pronounced with the white reflection or light on wheel and roof curves. You can guide any light similarly. Frame the light source with aluminum foil etc. to get sharper beams. And in here even more pronounced effect. This photo has not enought light to communicate the shapes. Instead the shapes are "drawn" probably using long exposure and moving a light source on top of the car. Infact it is really close to actually drawing the shape of the car by your hand.