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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Yes they are the same. The in out ratios can be changed though. The primary gearbox and the secondary gearbox are connected with a 16-16 gear mesh in the center of the gearbox. This could be changed to a 20-12 or 12-20 mesh, which would multiply all speed ratios by 20:12 or 12:20 respectively.
  2. Need help? Need help? Okay, I will take a look.
  3. Just to be clear, I also don't think the gearbox is flawed (which was the case in 42056) and I don't mind there being 3 crankshafts in the W16. Like @allanp mentioned, the gearbox is actually also 2 gearboxes, which is as much of a cheat as having 3 crankshafts. I'm okay with that. My main point about the gearbox is that practically the same behavior could have been obtained with less gears, less gear meshes, without the yellow ring extender and thus with less lag and less friction. It amazes me that I was able to find a simplified setup within days after the release in a model that has been spend a lot of time on by official designers. And my issue with the 3 crankshafts is not that there are three, but that the 2 secundary crankshafts are connected to the drivetrain through the primary crankshaft. That's not what the LEGO crankshaft pieces have been designed for. This is simply a matter of poor design. They should have put the 3 24t gears at the other side of the engine, so all crankshafts would be dead ends in the drivetrain. So I don't think the gearbox or engine are flawed, they simply could have been designed better with minimal effort.
  4. So, what's next? You want me to take a look at it?
  5. I have some fear about the weight too, but skipping the fake engine will help. Looking forward to seeing it drive
  6. If you are going to invest a lot of money in the Bugatti just to motorize it, I'd say: spend it on other sets and build yourself a great motorized moc from rebrickable.com or build one yourself. In the end the Bugatti is a display model, motorized or not motorized. But it's your choice of course. If you are still determined to motorize the Bugatti, I would say: use 4L motors, each driving a single wheel. So skip the diffs and use minimal gearing. I think a 1:1 gear ratio between motor and wheel should give just enough torque. Use a separate m-motor to drive the engine.
  7. The performance with BuWizz is already not great, so with stock LEGO parts it will be even harder to make it perform acceptably. You will have to remove the gearbox, but even then the model will still be heavy.
  8. I don't agree. The gearbox could have done with 2 gear meshes less for each gear as we have shown in the mods and Improvements thread.
  9. Nicely put. Couldn't agree more.
  10. Thanks! Yes, that makes sense. I knew about the problem with the red clutch gear so it sounds logical. The newer driving ring is 3L btw.
  11. Good to know . Do the old 2L rings also engage properly with the new 20t clutch gears?
  12. @metulskie8, that looks insane! Is the body really connected to the chassis? I would like to see it drive.
  13. I was able to make it 2 studs shorter and it actually works very well. Making it 7+R or 6+N+R won't be simple because it's actually two gearboxes, a 4-speed and a 2-speed. Reversing one speed in the 4-speed gearbox will affect 2 speeds of the whole gearbox. It would need a separate DNR switch I think.
  14. The 2 studs shorter version works equally smooth, if not more smooth: LXF-file here.
  15. Thanks guys! It has no reverse and the white silicon bands are wrapped around the red 2L axles and the pins with towbal. The ratios of the primary gearbox are: 1:1, 5:4, 5:3, 25:12 and the ratios of the secondary (low-high) gearbox are: 1:1, 25:9. Together that makes: 1:1, 5:4, 5:3, 25:12, 25:9, 125:36, 125:27, 625:108, or 1, 1.25, 1.67, 2.08, 2.78, 3.47, 4.63 and 5.79. Btw, I think I might be able to squeeze it 2 studs shorter.
  16. sorry to disappoint you guys. I have been occupied with the release of the Bugatti and its new parts the past few weeks, as you may have noticed. I still have the goal to finish instructions before summer holidays, which is in 4 weeks.
  17. After @Seasider asked whether the new gearbox parts would allow for a transmission tunnel, the idea sticked with me. So I started designing my first 8-speed gearbox, or in fact 8-speed transmission tunnel. All axles, including the control axles are aligned in a 3x3 tunnel. It has 90-degree limiters for all control axles and a 8<->1 gearblock. Clutch gears are only used for engaging with driving rings, not for transferring drive over axles running at different speed. I think the end result is something special. I used 16t gears to pass control from the main control axle to the secundary control axle. Theoratically knob wheels would have been better, but in practice the 16t gears operate much more smooth and the 90-degree alignment of the control axles is still good. LXF-file here.
  18. Very nice to see! That makes sense. In the end I think the Greyhound comes into full bloom on a bumpy surface where it can maintain high speed, where it tilts in turns and where you can see the suspension in full action. The name Greyhound is actually quite apt.
  19. Well, the suspension fix developed by me and @jb70 is actually stronger and does not degrade the resemblance with the real Bugatti. They could have had both, good suspension and a realistic rake angle.
  20. @TechnicRCRacer, the one in the OP, your spoiler should be in there. I also added an actuator. Tell me if I'm wrong.
  21. I updated the LXF-file with my changes to the door so it can actually open. I also left in my ideas for securing the front panels over the wheels and for the headlights, but these are mere suggestions for @Jeroen Ottens and @Aventador2004. @TechnicRCRacer, before I take over your part, perhaps you could try to integrate the adjustable spoiler into the build yourself. I made as much space as possible. @IA creations, is there still space for the door supports?
  22. That's a nice gearblock for the original gearbox! Regarding the idea of blocking the driving rings, I appreciate the fact that you want to draw your own conclusions . Why not the middle control axle? Nice indicator! Personally, I would not use tape, but the result is great.
  23. I like the idea of a transmission tunnel. I tried setting something up for a plain 8-speed gearbox, no reverse. Green is input, black is control and red is output. The nice thing about this setup is that no drive is passed via clutch gears. All clutch gears are idle, except the two that are engaged. I also reserved space for a 8<->1 gearblock and for 90 degree limiters on both the shift axles. Will try this this weekend. LXF-file here.
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