Didumos69

This is the most simple dashboard HoG I can come up with, secure and with a minimal set of extra parts. The HoG is positioned right above the 1x1 hole in the dashboard. The steering ratio of the steering wheel is the same as in the original build, the HoG is more direct. The second image shows the added parts (transparent green) and the dropped parts (transparent red). The red axle connector is a substitute for the new axle connector that was used in the original gearing above the gear rack. I also reused the 5L yellow axle. The last image shows the extra parts needed. I checked with the Box 1 build and I.m quite sure this will fit. I edited my first post about this solution to reflect the changes. LXF-file here.

Haha. I don't have a copy yet, but I saw people in video's damaging the bodywork while trying to steer . I ordered the set but I have other plans with the parts. I will build it but I'm affraid it will never see daylight.

Nice solution! You used more parts, but your HoG axle is better secured.

I did some more finetuning on my suggestion for a HoG on the dashboard. This is the result for now. Like I said in my first post about this, I checked, but I don't know for sure whether all fits. It would be nice if someone could check whetjher this fits and/or works. I edited my first post about this solution to reflect the changes.

I did some extra plumbing to get better grip on the HoG and attached bevel gear to avoid slipping. I edited my first post about this solution to reflect the changes.

You're right. However, I see that as an advantage, especially for the HoG. I expect the feel to be less sloppy.

Steering wheel and HoG turn in the same direction. Imagine the steering wheel rotating to the right in the image, the axle runing sideways also rotates to the right and the HoG too. The axle inserted in the U-joint rotates in opposite direction compared to the unmodified situation. That's why I removed the gearing above the gear rack. I agree. I'm working on that. I'm working on replacing the pin with pin hole with a 3L pin-axle connector. Whether it will slip under torque depends on how rigid the upper black part of the dashboard is compared to the parts securing the other gears. No problem.

EDIT: I took the LXF-file of Box 1 (from Tommy Styrkovy's McPherson post, great thanks to the original designer!) to verify whether all will fit and it does. I updated my LXF-file to contain the steering train with and without dashboard HoG. So to wrap things up: This is a simple dashboard HoG, secure and with a minimal set of extra parts. The HoG is positioned right above the 1x1 hole in the dashboard. The steering ratio of the steering wheel is the same as in the original build, the HoG is more direct. The second image shows the added parts (transparent green), what has been reused (original color) and the dropped parts (transparent red). The red axle connector is a substitute for the new axle connector that was used in the original gearing above the gear rack. I also reused the 5L yellow axle and several other parts. The last image shows the extra parts needed. EDIT: - Updated the LXF-file with the 3x3 liftarm to keep the gear rack in place as was suggested by Blakbird. - Added a variation with removable HoG to the LXF-file (see third image), an idea from Attika. - Added a variation prepared for placing the gear rack at the back of the front suspension (might be needed for Ackermann steering). With and without standard HoG: What has been added (transparent green), what has been reused (original color) and what has been dropped (transparent red)? Variations for Ackermann steering and with removable HoG Parts needed for standard HoG: LXF-file here.

I was triggered by scooper22's conclusion and your confirmation. I couldn't follow the logic and wanted to know if I was missing something. But it's not that important so let's not get distracted from the interesting adjustment you made to MaxSupercars' mod

Agreed. But the question - or at least my question - remains: Could a preferred direction of the gearbox be the reason for the diff being placed the way it is?

No, but that was not my point. It was suggested that the differential has been placed this way to match the D+N+R-sticker and I wanted to clarify that it doesn't matter which way the engine is rotating for drive or reverse. So matching the sticker can't be the reason for the differential being placed as is. Hence it could still be the case that the differential is placed as it is, because the gearbox has a preferred direction. If anyone can explain what's wrong with this reasoning, then please do.

I still don't get it. You can just put the D+N+R-sticker the other way around - without changing anything else - and the engine won't complain. The major difference when putting the differential the other way around is that all gears and axles in the gearbox will rotate in opposite direction. It could still be the case that the differential is placed as it is, because the gearbox has a preferred direction. Like I said, I've had that experience with other gearboxes, so it wouldn't appear strange to me. Or am I missing something?

Thanks for making this list of Essential improvements. It would be nice to see this list in the OP of the MODs and Improvements topic. Just to get the basics right.

you seem to have an index in your head for anything important posted on this thread Which brings me to this: Would it be an idea to add some pointers in the original post of this thread to what I would refer to as "Essential improvements and clarifications"? Just to get the basics right. EDIT: Just a minute ago Kummbl posted the current list of essential improvements in the Review-topic.

This official Meccano model (1929) came with gearbox ("Three-speed forward and Reverse Gear Box, Differential Gear, Ackermann Steering, Friction Clutch, Torque Rods, Internal-expanding Brakes, Foot Brake on Cardan Shaft, Radiator Fan, Semi-elliptic Laminated Springs, Disc Wheels, Dunlop Tyres, etc."). My father made a tow truck out of this. It's how he got me inspired for Technic Source: http://meccaninfos.com.ar/planouno.html

Each ring has 3 positions, so with 3 rings you have in fact 9 possible selections, even though only 6 are useful. This is quite complex. The best I could find is this 6-speed gearbox with 2 servos from Sariel: http://sariel.pl/2015/03/6-speed-rc-servo-transmission/

The same question has been raised before and similar questions have been raised before and before and... If the idea is to help or influence TLG in deciding what (ultimate) sets they could come up with next, then I think it would be better to stick to a single thread. Besides that - and this has been mentioned in one of the 'before'-topics too - if you want to sell your case, then sell it with a good story and not just by calling names of vehicle or machines that you wish to have. Especially when a set is supposed to be 'ultimate' - and we now know what TLG means with 'ultimate' - it should represent a real-life machine / vehicle that a lot of people connect with. It is clear that TLG wants to appeal to an even broader audience with the 'ultimate' series than TLG does with the Technic theme itself. Here's a list of things that - I think - we should take into account for future 'ultimate' sets: - It should represent a machine/vehicle that is well-known all over the world, something legendary - It should appeal to a broad audience, broader than just Technic fans - It should have state-of-the-art Technic functions and at least one Technic feature that hasn't been in any set before - As 'ultimate' aims for a wider audience; it should be buildable by newbies .. and I probably missed some. Just my thoughts on what we could do to help TLG decide what to come up with next...

My impression is that the 8 tooth gears are not used for transferring torque. One of them is attached to an axle pin connetcor with friction to reduce backlash. But maybe there are more 8 tooth gears that I didn't see...

Couldn't it be the case that the gearbox operates better in one specific direction? I've had that experience with other gearboxes.

Okay, thanks. Didn't know that. The Porsche will be my first set since I'm out of my dark age. Upto now I bought my parts via Bricklink (apart from the 42036 Road motor and the 42007 Cross motor that I bought for my kids a year ago).

Are the spares for each box the same?

1. The Blakbird fix requires 2 extra bushes not part of the set. To do the Blakbird-fix without adding parts to the set you can switch the 4 half bushes in the handgrip of the luggage bag with the pin joiner in the D+N+R-selecter. Or even better, if you don't like the yellow half bushes on the paddles you can use the yellow ones for the D+N+R-selecter and the LBG ones from the bag for the paddles. 2. There are several video's on youtube showing how this can be done just by switching parts. So no extra parts needed for this. 3. I don't know, maybe someone else can tell.

I'm getting more happy with purchasing the Porsche every day! Thanks! It's as if they have given us a puzzle: "find the five mistakes". As of August 1st they will start sending out the Porsche without errors. It's all part of a cunningly concealed plan...

I've been breaking my head on this all day already! The only thing I can think of so far is something that always engages 2 drive rings and puts one in neutral position. But I promise, when I think of something that could help I will let you know

The semi-homocinetic joints in the front and in the back are very inventive. You are really exploring the edges of what's possible with Lego. I agree with Agrof that the A-arms in the back could be done a little more sturdy. The least you could do is adding some overlap between the levers, but that probably boils down to using 5L levers too, just like Agrof suggested. Maybe you want the suspension arms to look like a real A, however, given the original Maz it would also be nice if there was more resemblance between the front and rear A-arms. Anyway, very interesting designs so far!