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dmaclego

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Everything posted by dmaclego

  1. dmaclego
    I'd say it's the best among the small ones I've seen so far (minifig scale). Remarkable! Somehow I totally overlooked the existence of that fine windscreen you used in the front. Great choice. Now, all you need is to finish that AT-AT to stomp on it properly ;) .
  2. dmaclego
    Haha, that's interesting! "High noon: duel of the X-wings" ;) Well, it's hard not to compare our creations, isn't it? Yours is much more... LEGO, I think. Visible studs are considered - by many fans - a necessity. As far as I can see, there are no illegal techniques (stud jammed in Technic hole used to be legal, so no problem here ;) ). Also, it is white, like all the recent official LEGO renditions of X-wing. And it's a very elegant design - clean form, no questionable solutions. As I said - very, very LEGO, in the best meaning of this word. Also, proportions are very good - using a custom-built cockpit allowed that, which is nice. All in all - a great, great effort. Congratulations! P.S. But I like mine a bit more :D . Should I feel bad about it? ;) I hope you feel the same about your baby... I mean: model!
  3. dmaclego
    Now this looks like a perfect introduction duriing the first meeting of Anonymous Legoholics Club :D . But seriously, your model looks great already. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you - keep up the fine work and avoid crash-landings ;) . My question is: what do you plan to do with such a huge model? I know, for instance, that ISD "Chimaera" model built by my friend Jerac tours the commercial LEGO exhibitions constantly. I also know that my Endor Project will spend most of its life in the boxes (with occasional fan convent visits), until I have a separate room for it. And what do you intend to do?
  4. dmaclego
    Once again: thank you all for overhelmingly positive reactions. Smitty500: I think I would break down if I had to break down this model once again ;) . I mean, it is now so packed with wires inside it's a wonder the walls don't bulge. Right now, only a hard crash-landing on the floor could make me peek inside this model again ;) . But they say time is a healer, so maybe one day... But let me tell you this: the key part of the hull are ball joints (the small ones from Mixels). They enabled me to taper the walls toward the nose. Initially there were four joints, now there are only two. Now, let the reverse engineering fiesta begin! :)
  5. dmaclego
    Thank you, gentlemen. Jannik: sorry to cause you trouble :) . But keep building, by all means; the progress (in SW model building) seems to be constant, why don't just take the lead! :) The parts you're asking about: the white half-circles are helmet visors from Hockey player collectable minifig, then the thinniest parts of the barrels are metal LEGO train axles. Bbafett: I believe these pics (and pic descriptions) may explain to you how the wings work: bottom mech by Maciej Szymański, on Flickr top mech by Maciej Szymański, on Flickr
  6. dmaclego
    Well, I don't share your fondness for this particular view :) . The camera either focuses on the very nose of the ship or the rear part (engines). So there is always half of it out of focus. But here you go: Frontal by Maciej Szymański, on Flickr
  7. dmaclego
    Hello again, X-wing - The Wallpaper by Maciej Szymański, on Flickr I'm proud to present the model I've been working on for a while - a minifig scale X-wing. (Actually, if you compare the ships length to fig's height, it turns out the pilot is 5 feet tall but hey - they are MINIfigs, aren't they? ;) ) The model is 100% LEGO except for lights (12 LEDs altogether) and 4 small decals (borrowed from old MPC/Ertl models). A section of Yavin hangar contains another 10 lights - they are original LEGO 9V light bricks. If you have any questions, I'll gladly answer. The full gallery is right here: Enjoy! X-wing - Yavin by night by Maciej Szymański, on Flickr
  8. dmaclego
    Beautiful work, my friend: a daring and well executed project. I'd love to see the interior but even more than that, I'd love to see how it looks in real bricks. Do you plan to actually build it? Or perhaps you've already checked the crucial sections of the ship in real bricks to see if they hold together? And what about color availability?
  9. dmaclego
    I bet that's the one who smashed his fighter against Executor's bridge. The low hanging guts on his knees gave him away ;) . Personally, I adore the recent snowspeeder pilot with printed legs. I hope we'll get similar print with new T-65 X-wing fighter (coming out eventually, considering how often they re-build this vessel) plus super-cool new X-wing pilot helmet with visor, a'la T-70.
  10. dmaclego
    Hi, Having built my own X-wing (and waiting for the last BL order before publishing it), I'm quite familiar with this vessel at the moment and I noticed something about your model. I hope you don't mind - I copied one of your photos and modified it to illustrate my point. Please, take a look. In your model, H1 more or less equals H2 (even if the white cockpit outline I drew is a little exaggerated). In real X-wing (if there is such a thing ;) ) it is not so: section H2 is twice as tall as H1. It won't be easy for you correct this mistake, considering the technique you've chosen but I think it would improve your model tremendously. Good luck!
  11. dmaclego
    Real bricks-built leg looks very nice. Makes me want to improve certain details in my design but I'll wait until you finish your model - to see if under real strain your ideas WORK as good as they LOOK :D . (Oh, naughty me ;) ). Also, as you put more and more effort into designing the legs, I keep wondering whether the head isn't too small. But you won't know that until you finish so... once again: good luck! Well, it's NOT supported in my model :) .
  12. dmaclego
    Very impressive model. I like the attention to detail, especially color-wise. Congratulations and keep up the great work!
  13. dmaclego
    Indeed! Unless both body and head of your model will be ultra-light, which is, well, impossible. Also, about accurate details: the 10x10 dishes just shouldn't be there :) . I know you need to hide the mechanism somehow but the 2 studs wide "tears" are already too thick as it is (just the same as in my my model, so I don't blame you here ;) ) and adding a 10x10 dish on the inside will make it hard for you to squeeze the "jet engines" between them (or whatever they are, the tubular parts between legs, usually represented by large LEGO wheels).
  14. dmaclego
    Excellent model. I particularly admire details of legs. It will make updating my own AT-ST's - quite a bit obsolete by today's building standards - much more difficult, since I'm trying to avoid any influences, even (or: especially) from the greatest designs, like yours. :)
  15. dmaclego
    A massive, fat, Technic-bricks-and-pins display stand, I'd say. And that only to improve durability of legs. Overall stability of such a tall construct, very heavy at the top, is a whole another story. But I agree that if LEGO is about to issue a UCS AT-AT, it will come with a display stand.
  16. dmaclego
    All true. I own it and can tell you that Type 3 is much tighter than previous turntables. While it turns very easily, there is virtually no loose space between the halves, which is most important to you, since you don't want the hips (or shoulders) to be wobbly. But... In my model legs are joined with hips with single Technic axles, because the real issue is not the way you connect the legs to hips - it's all about the legs themselves. I do not experience any problems whatsoever with the tiny, fragile axles supporting 7 kg of bricks. It's the legs that tend to break when you push or pull the model sideways. Legs in your model seem to be sturdier than in mine, so it's not really necessary for you to use turntables for structural reasons - perhaps only to enhance poseability.
  17. dmaclego
    Agreed. I can even imagine a very good UCS AT-AT not much bigger than regular sets. However, a temptation of minifig scale is strong with this one :) . BigEl: my model weighs 7 kg. But it's not about the weight or clutch power of the bricks, it's about proportions: a slab of concrete would be equally unstable, being so tall and with a center of gravity placed so high.
  18. dmaclego
    I don't remember seeing it. This may be another case of the crucial dilemma: do we build models of machines we know from movies, or models of models used in movies :) . Because it is a well known fact that special effects techniques (namely: blue screen technique) tend to change colors of the models. That's why the Millennium Falcon seems gray in the movie, while the model used for filming was in fact off-white or light tan.
  19. dmaclego
    In my opinion, the amount of parts is irrelevant. I don't know the exact numbers, but UCS Millennium Falcon sold out easily and - being basically a huge pile of fairly standard bricks and plates - it must have been great for LEGO Group in purely business terms. Durability and safety are paramount here. With all due respect to Cavegod and other builders (including me ;) ), our AT-ATs are nightmares in terms of assembly process and durability. You need four hands to assembly mine, for instance (I'm talking about attaching the legs and head to the body). This is way, way beyond LEGO standards. Then you have a plethora of "illegal" building techniques, which are just not accepted by the LEGO Group (I won't even start on that but believe me that LEGO designers must stick to very rigid rules, one of them being as ridiculous as "expose at least some studs whenever you can, because this is LEGO and LEGO is all about studs"). About stability: remember UCS Imperial Shuttle 10212 and how some builders criticized the detachable landing gear? Well, as I have proven, you can have a retractable landing gear but then the model is BARELY standing (and only if you hold your breath ;) ) . So they went for detachable landing gear and I don't blame them; it's the right thing to do if you don't want people sue you for selling a toy that won't stand on its own . But you can't do it with the AT-AT because its proportions make it simply impossible. Or you can do it but severely compromising the aesthetics and that's not what UCS series is about. I wouldn't take such risk. But then - what do I know about running a big business? ;)
  20. dmaclego
    Phaelon, first of all - thank you for your interest in my model and all the kind words. There is absolutely no need for you to feel guilty of "harassment" :) . When people ask me about building instructions, I feel flattered, not harassed - because it means they actually think I've done a decent job. But it is also true, that creating instructions is a painstaking endeavor and definitely less exciting than creating new models. It's not that I don't like to share or don't like to earn ;) . It's just that it takes so much time! However, there is still hope. Sometimes I get stuck with my Endor Project (when, for instance, I can't obtain another thousand of ultra-rare bricks ;) ) and then, as I consider not-building a total waste of time, I launch my faithful MLCad and start fiddling with a behemoth like AT-AT... Or I get bribed by someone who really, really wants these instructions ;) . These things happen, but at this very moment - I'm running ahead with my Endor Project. Thanks again and good luck with your building, dmac
  21. dmaclego
    I admire how you got rid of the slopes 75 2x2x3 double convex. It opens new possibilities for sturdier ankle joints. Great job! (And I agree that paint is a lesser sin than glue ;) . )
  22. dmaclego
    Thank you very much, gentlemen. Breathtaking... Nice. But at the moment my work on Endor Project is mostly skin-taking ;) . Skin on my fingers I mean. I'm well on my way turning 64 kg of green bricks into Endor landscape. Wish me luck! And patience! And new skin on my fingers ;) .
  23. dmaclego
    Looking very nice. However: 1) In my book, the hip joint is slightly bigger than knee joint, which means that thigh should be ever-so-slightly tapered. 2) Hard to tell if the ankle arch will be sturdy enough; I can't even see grooves between bricks in your render :) . The same goes to the round part of the foot - difficult to see what you did there.
  24. dmaclego
    I agree. They should be two studs thick. Take a look at the film model - the legs are much thicker than the tear-shaped parts connecting them to the hull. Besides, with one stud thick legs the model would be extremely hard to assemble. I'm not saying your AT-AT would not stand on such thin legs (because I guess it could), but assembling it would be a feat. Unless, of course, you have a very, very, very strong glue ;) . About radars on the knees - I had the printed ones on mine for a long time but changed my mind just before the final photoshoot. Reasons: 1) they are out of scale, 2) the print is somewhat crude (fat lines and big splashes of dark paint do not look good with fine lines that divide bricks/plates), 3) they make the knees too thick.
  25. dmaclego
    Thank you very much, Schneeds & icemann. I'm glad you like my work. That is why, if memory serves me well, there are only 3 PF motors in the entire Endor Project :) . The rest are old geared 9V motors and I have plenty of them, which is the most cost-effective solution. The same goes to 9V lights / wires / pole reversers - they are expensive but not as much as PF lights and extension wires. And the good ol' train transformer / regulator does a fine job dimming the lights ;) . I kind of like the fact that certain parts of my project are so old school, remaining hidden under all these bluish grays and modern parts.
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