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Everything posted by dmaclego
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No, not 'could'. MUST :) . Please, go all the way. With all the details, all mechanics, all lights, including the ones in the cockpit, in landing gear bays and on the wings (a lot of them!). If you need reference for those, you might wish to visit my flickr feed: You, my friend, are building THE definitive LEGO X-wing fighter. You've invested so much time, money and effort - please, do not hold back in any way!
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So many possibilities with such a huge model! Thus the fantastic detailing in the cockpit. Kudos, my friend. Just don't forget the extendable targetting computer with coiled wire ;) .
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Thank you all once again! They can't and they won't, fortunately. I mean, they have strict rules - mostly about sturdiness and safety of the models - not to mention the potential price of sets with Model Team looks, Technic functions AND remote control. That's why comparing MOCs and sets is... you know, apples and oranges ;).
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Keen eye, my friend :) . Yes, indeed, it has 6x6 drive - just as the original, with motor in the front, transfer case in the middle and two parallel drive shafts (see the schematic drawing above). Yes, they are :) . I wish they were some 2 studs shorter for my purposes but still... They seem to work pretty well :) . Thank you for your kind opinions, gentlemen.
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Thank you all for your kind words, I'm really glad you like my model. Well, I like them old, that's true :) . Re-visiting childhood memories is the main reason, I guess. But I also appreciate how old style mechanisms - such as this cable operated excavator - lend themselves perfectly to LEGO modelling. Simple machines, simple solutions... Believe or not but on my to-do-list there's a cable operated bulldozer, too :) . No hydraulics.
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Hello there! I'm back with another 1:13 Technic/Model Team/Scale Model. This time it's a military 6x6 truck (Star 660) combined with tracked mechanical excavator (Waryński KM-251) and, so predictably, named KS-251. Perhaps Medium Azure does not seem to be the most popular color for construction equipment but actually my model is based on existing machine, photographed back in 1968: I daresay the model is fairly similar to the original, both in form and in function. Speaking of which, it is equiped with CaDA RC and motors, which may not suit the purists among you :) . Anyway, it drives, turns and digs as a decent wheeled excavator should and that's what's important, I think. The rims were painted (thanks, Misterzumbi!) and stickers are custom made (thanks, Eric Trax!), of course. If you'e interested, you may find more photos in my flickr gallery (dmaclego) or take a look at this short video here: Thank you for your time and please, feel free to comment! Maciej
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And this, my friend, looks uber-cool. Please, keep up the fantastic work and have it finished while I'm still alive ;) .
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Hello again, Nobody asked for my opinion, so why not chip in? ;) 1) Fantastic work with the launcher. 2) It looks a tad too thick right now but this (and the thickness of the whole hull) may be just an illusion caused by color scheme. I mean, as long as you keep only the thin red stripe on the side off the hull, it's hard to judge the final look. Buy some red liftarms, do the stripe and then we'll see. 3) As for angular proton torpedo launcher - the cut corners are clearly seen on both Yavin IV full scale X-wing and the original studio model of Red 3 (of which I have lots of close-up photos). I'd go for angles.
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I'm so glad you persevere. What a fantastic nose! And fits the fuselage like a glove. Please, don't stop.
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You, my friend, are insane and I mean it in the most positive way :) . Went back through this topic (some 7 years) to find a photo of the nose and I have a question, as your fantastic model constantly evolves - albeit somewhat glacially ;) : that version of the nose, although perfectly shaped, had a large rift in the middle - did you manage to cover it or re-designed/plan to re-design it?
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Easily the best AT-AT model in this not-so-popular scale. The head is particularly impressive. Bravo!
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I'm so glad that you don't give up and grace us with updates from time to time. This is a unique project and so is your dedication. I like a lot what you did with this rear end greebling. The most realistic LEGO X-wing is on its way, no doubt about that!
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Lets "fix" powered up!
dmaclego replied to allanp's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Yes, please! But one more thing is necessary to make Power Functions even better: switch from the ridiculous IR to RADIO control. Oh, and by the way, I want my fully-rotating 9V polarity switches in the new Power Functions as well! :) Also, I believe that killing off the Mindstorms line and including some of its capabilities into Powered Up was a huge mistake. Many of us are just interested in simple (or not so simple) mechanics+electrics and do not need to pay extra money for tilt sensors, huge hubs, phone apps etc. Others, I daresay, would be happier with full-blown Mindstorms sets, with multiple sensors, programming and the whole shebang. -
General Part Discussion
dmaclego replied to Polo-Freak's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Well, the key words here seem to be "in this set". I bet they will be very visible in some other set, rather sooner than later. What LEGO does is a mass production; these axle pins would never be recolored just like that because it costs money. So let's wait and see :) .- 5,333 replies
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How to start on making a car?
dmaclego replied to d0mka's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I would add one more general rule: never assume that you have your front and rear axle fixed when you've just started working on a model, because you may very well be forced to re-build them 10 times before your MOC is finished. Which is perfectly normal, by the way. -
Press the button on the battery box and it's going to blink red, waiting for connection. Then press the small orange button on the top of the controller. Connection should be established immediately: green light on the controller will blink once or twice and turn off. In the same time the red light on the battery box will stop blinking and will stay on. If you have motors or lights connected to the battery box, you may now control them with two levers on the top of the controller and four buttons on the front side. If you do not use them for some time (I'd say minutes, not seconds), the battery box will shut down to save energy and you will have to repeat the procedure. (Although sometimes, after a short time, it will be enough to press the button on the battery as it will remember to which controller it was paired before.) If you try the above and green light on the controller keeps blinking endlessly, it means you don't have a connection. This may either mean that your battery box requires charging or that your devices cannot be paired. But if you bought them together (in a set or as spare parts from CaDA store), it should never happen. If it does, though, you should contact the seller. Edit: Naturally, once you have the first pair of devices, you may connect more pairs the same way and use them all simultaneously. They will not interfere with one another.
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Each CaDA controller is paired with one receiver/battery box when you turn them on. Thus you cannot operate many receivers with one controller and cannot operate one receiver with many controllers. Naturally, you can operate as many pairs as you want simultaneously. This seems too easy so I'll confuse it a bit: I have some CaDA controllers that can be paired with different receivers (one at the time, of course) and some CaDA controllers that will work with only one particular receiver :D . Go figure.
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Thank you all once again, guys. Thanks but all the credit goes to the designers of the original machine - they managed to use just one winch and let the gravity do its job. Once the bucket is at the very end of the ramp, the string pulls it down. When you unwind the string, gravity allows the bucket (and the top part of the ramp) to return to normal position. But I must admit figuring out this crude mechanism in LEGO was probably the most difficult part of the whole experience. (Number two being track tension system, which had to fit within the three-stud-wide wheel assemblies).
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Thank you all, guys. I'm glad you like my model. And yes, the micromotors are a blessing. I suppose I could have used regular Medium motors but wanted to test the strength of the micromotors and I'm really satisfied with the result. About the ZNAP parts - yes, they have perfect shape for this particular model but I'm still not in love with them. They are made of a different kind of plastic (not ABS, I think; you can see it clearly in close-up shots) and the building system itself, with all those rotating connectors, is rather awkward at best. Thanks again!