Ngoc Nguyen

A bit slower than this. 10:24

That's yuuuuuuugeeeee

Yes, the spinning blades is the most troublesome function because of inadequate gearing down. I've figured out the mod to do that. Please head to this post.

I've just tested that. The motor slightly struggles to start, but the blades spin normally. No sound of straining. So to recap: - 20-12-12 in the gearbox + 12-12 in the rotors: Disaster. Motor is straining, struggles to start, and struggles to deliver power. Transmission is visibly intermitten. - 20-12-12 in the gearbox + 12-20 in the rotors: Disaster. Motor is straining, struggles to start, and struggles to deliver power. Transmission is visibly intermitten. - 12-20-12 in the gearbox + 12-12 in the rotors: Blades spin slower. The motor slightly struggles to start the function, but the blades spin normally. No sound of straining. - 12-20-12 in the gearbox + 12-20 in the rotors: Blades spin slowest. The motor starts the function normally. The blades spin normally. No sound of straining. Conclusion: I recommend the last option. I'll leave my model permanently in the last option as well.

I don't think that would work, because before modding the central gearbox, I already mod the 12:20 ratio into the rotors, and turned on the spinning blade. The motor still struggled with 12/20 in both rotors.

The mod finally works!!!!! I combine this with this What my mod does is basically gearing down the drive train from the motor to the spinning blades. The original gear raio is 1/1, which means very little torque. My mod makes the final gear ratio (12/20)^2, which is 9/25. This will make the blades spin approximately 3 times slower but ensure that the motor doesn't strain itself. The blades spin much more slowly but the motor is no longer stressed. The rotation speeds of the axle coming from the motor when the spinning blades are turned on and off are the same now. The sound is also the same. The motor is finally at peace.

@R0Sch @anyUser I found out the reason. The skipping didn't happen at the big 20z meshing with the half 12z on the yellow axle. It happened somewhere else. The 20z-12z half gear mesh has no problem at all once I fixed the skipping somewhere else. And the skipping happened at the 2 8z gears coming from the red 16z clutch gear. In the original setup in the photo above, the 20z gear is big enough to block the red axle from coming back out from the connector with the switch. But when I swapped the two gears, the 12z gear is in the bottom and can't block it. The red axle protrudes slightly and interferes with the 12z gear, thus causing the skipping.

Tan frictionless axle pin

I'm so sad to report that this mod doesn't work. I've just tried it. Because the 20z is now only connected to only one side of the frame, during high spinning from the motor, it's constantly bobbing around and skipping the meshing with the half 12z on the yellow axle. The result is a much more vibrating and friction-laden transmission. Don't attempt this at home. It doesn't work. EDIT: The problem is actually else where. The 20z-12z meshing did work when the problem elsewhere is removed. Please disregard the above,

Right, I tried to make them aligned and the motor still struggle. It's not because of the red connectors then.

I think I found out the cause for the intermitten behavior of the spinning blade. It's actually the red connector pinhole + 2 pins in red on both sides. I stripped down the gearbox back to that stage, and I tried spinning the axle manually. I notice that the intermitten spinning ONLY occurs when the yellow axle is fully inserted. Then it dawned on me that if the red connector only slightly deviated from the parallel position, it will rub into the universal joints and cause intermitten friction.

Yes that might work. I'm also thinking about forcing a pair of 12z-20z half gears into the connection point between the axle from the body and the axle from the rotor. Oh you know what, I've got a better idea. Swap the 12z-20z so that the 12z is in the bottom, while the 20z is in the top. Then replace the 12z half gear on the yellow axle with a 20z half gear.

So it has been established that there is a problem with the spinning function. The motor struggles to deliver power. I hypothesize that the central reason is that the drivetrain isn't geared down properly. The ratio between the motor's axle and the spinning axle is 1:1. The fix now is to force a pair of 12z-20z somewhere. But it's hard because the transmission is so dense with gears and beams. I haven't tried it out, but I think the most feasible place to fix is the brace in the white frame. The transmission there goes like this: (20/12) x (12/12). I plan to get rid of the 3-side brace somehow to force a gearing down setup there. Another feasible place is the wing. But I haven't figured out how to gear down linearly @efferman Can you take a look and give it a try?

You build some, you reconstruct some

Very well said! I love this part.

To include the clutch piece.

OMG the blades' behavior is exactly the same as mine. The drivetrain from the motor to the blade is (motor 12z) - (20z - 8z) - 8z - (8z - 16z) - (16z - 20z) - (12z - 12z) - (half 12z - half 12z) - (half 12z - blade). It's geared down but geared up back later by the same ratio.

@R0Sch But since we're talking about the spinning blade, there is this weird phenomenon. When I turn on the spinning blade function, the motor seems to be straining to deliver power. The blades still spin fine, but the axles in the gearbox spin slower than usual, and the sound coming from the motor is weird. I troubleshoot by turn it on on multiple separate occasion when the blades are removed, when the left rotor is removed, when the right rotor is removed, and when both are removed. The motor and the axle only rotate normally when both rotors are removed. I think either the rotors design interfere with the function, or the drive train isnt geared down enough. The gear ratio from the motor to the spinning blade is practically 1:1.

It's funny that you'll still have to put the "No I don't know how you can get one too" in the FAQ sidebar

It looks kinda weird

@R0Sch I don't play with the function much. And I can't really see if there's any wear on the 8z gears on the middle line because the gearbox has been buried into the fuselage. I can only see the one in the top, and it looks okay. What you said about spinning the blades is true. I also mentioned it in the review One shouldn't turn on the spinning function if the rotors are in horizontal position, but that only applies if the model is on the table. If you're picking it up and swooshing it, then the blades will spin just fine. But turning on the spinning blades is strongly advised against, because the blades are large and can sweep into your face. It does hurt a bit.

Since 42113 has raised the bar for technical complexity in large Technic aircraft, I'd like to venture a guess on what may surpass 42113. I think the final frontier is a helicopter with proper cyclic and collective pitch. This one can be a 1h or even 2h flagship. Other aircrafts with possibilities of compex technical design include variable wings aircraft (9394 A), tandem rotor helicopters (42025 B)

Osprey in @Didumos69 's style https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-48293/Target86/mini-osprey-v-22/#parts

Some parts don't exist on Bricklink and thus can't be included into the XML provided. Please refer to the question about new parts in the first post.

They didn't kowtow to that group. There was sign that the set was postpone before that group publicly expressed disapproval. The reviewers was sent 42112 and 42114, but not 42113.