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Everything posted by dundarach
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The problem I found with real scalextric cars is the amount of Lego I want on them, made them overheat and STOP :( all too quickly. I think the market is in a small guide blade brick which then links to standard cables and a compatible voltage motor. Here's the latest photos to keep everyone motivated: http://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2WDMLO3euGHjdMr2XbgiJg/videos And loads of videos on my youtube channel of them running really well :) All good stuff!
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Have made another couple of videos if you fancy a look: The Emerald Night blasting along with old 4.5v trucks - great noise And riding the rails behind the Emerald Night
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Combining the futuron monorail with a 7745 passenger train
dundarach replied to AlmightyArjen's topic in LEGO Train Tech
I think it looks great :) Love it! -
I'm glad I'm inspiring people, this is the next idea which works very well...two 4.5v motors together, twice the power :-) The others don't get hot and run well with the resistor, however this way the motors are just wired up to the track. Brickie, love the train track idea - I knew this was in the right forum :) I'm thinking Kickstarter all the way with this topic, if Lego released a proper slot car system using standard technic parts and motors I'd buy it in a flash.
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8 9v motors 2 12v motors 2 4.5v motors converted to PF :) 2 4.5v motors on battery 1 PF Emerald Night Several bought kits AND A massive box of bits so therefore my trains keeping changing like my underpants.....
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Yes the 12v motors would be ideal, however don't have any of these :) It's more proving that they are indeed usable and can actually be driven, which they can and sound great. Slightly bigger track: I will try and get some better video
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Cracking, love it and the bridge is amazing :)
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Quick update: Sorry for the dreadful video, space is tight in the Lego room, I'm going to move out into the lounge at weekend for a day or so...
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Thought people might like a quick trip for fun :)
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Really got the bug now :)
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A quick update. After trying various 10w wire wound resistors, actually the one which 'appears' to work the best is a 10w 10ohm wire wound. This give me control and provides enough power for the motor to run. Whether or not something goes pop, we'll see. Also everything is stock, so no modifications to Scalextric or Lego parts, except the guide blades meeting the Lego :) See what you think, prototype one... Next step is to improve gearing and hide the resistor.
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Looks good, any any layout is better than no layout.... Take a look at my Brickshelf http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=492641 to see how mine has developed. The only thing I would add, is that at first I built maximum track, however actually have less is more....
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Kieran Thanks, no not really looking to compete with non lego cars, simply have a bit of fun. However yes this helps, I've gone for a 100ohm 10w ceramic resistor which I'm going to wire up tonight and see what happens as a rough trial. i'll let you know. I simply fancy building some cars and trying them out, however using nothing except the guides and everything else stock lego. Chris
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Peter cracking idea about simply lowering adapter value....! That must be worth a try as I'm only using old style classic track anyway therefore only 1 car to 1 lane etc... I'll have a little playing around and report back :-)
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Thanks everyone, however what I really want is simply to build an all lego car, with a 4.5v motor, stick it on the scalextric and use the controller to race as normal. So for example, I could take my lego car to anyone's track, stick it and race, without frying the 4.5v motor by running too much power through it.
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Would love the demolition derby set, however would also like to try and make an entirely Lego car, motor, wheels everything and literally only take power from the tracks :) However that set is nice and that, and the bodville site is what's now started my re-interest in scalextric - haha I'm not interested in speed, was thinking more along the wacky races type thing, where I could build outrageous contraptions from Lego and drive them (relatively slowly) around a track.
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Many thanks, yes saw Bodville :) however I think he uses AFX chassis and mounts lego on top. I think I'll wire up a voltage regulator and report back...
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Well that's what I thought, however the internet seems to warn against this....??
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Sorry if this is in the wrong forum, however being I'm a train person and being it's still power and motors etc. I thought this might be the place. I have a bunch of 4.5v technic round motors - 6116m2 I want to power these from my scalextric track which is either 0-12v or newer --16v without destroying the motor. A thought might be to use a 0-5v voltage regulator to throttle back the supply, however could I two questions of the more enlightened than me: 1. would something like a 0-5v voltage regulator give me a range from 0 to 5v to accelerate the car? 2. is there an easier way to do this? Many thanks everyone, really want to build an all lego slot car, rather than butchering cars or lego :)
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Welcome :-) Get building.....
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Amazing, thank you for posting. Doesn't the EN look fabulous in the shed and on the turntable
- 14 replies
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- infrastructure
- train shed
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Awesome - going to build some of these :-)
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I like it, small, independent and captures the feel. Nice!
- 16 replies
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- Pannier Tank
- Tank Engine
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That's great, the IR receivers are extremely good, I placed two inside the cabs of steam locos, one even behind glass and it still works from a couple of feet away. Cracking job! (and I even butchered it to power a 4.5v motor and it still works :) )
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It's a blooming lovely locomotive, and look at it this way - whatever you paid for it, if you modelled in O guage then you'd be paying cosiderably more for the same thing :-) Lego is more adaptable, colourful, more creative and enjoyable by all ages AND like for like, CHEAPER.... Yes!