doug72

A V1 PF receiver should be a Lego run two. L motors OK, I have done without problem. Sounds as if there is either too much friction in the drive train or the wrong gear ratios is being used & overloading the motors. Try L motors on seperate red & blue out puts NOT both on red or blue.

Looking good and colourful. Any sign of video of the LEGO World Utrecht with the GBC modules running - only found one by Macio Arts but none of them running - just a veiw of them all set up before the show opened.

Managed to lower the turntable by 1L so top of the rails is approx. 4.5 L but still worked when 5.5L height. Minimum is three track panels & works OK, 1st panel has to be horizontal with turntable & the other two sloping down to ground level track, Train able to climb the gradient OK. Presume your train wheels have friction bands.

@dunes thanks for supplying that information. My next GBC Train project: I have decided that I don't have enough parts to build the Akiyuki Crane GBC Train module . I will use elements from the control unit to time the train module I hope to build, which is to be based on a Russian Balanced Boat Lift.

Thanks for the encouragement, it will be long term project. Not sure yet what to build, something similar to the the Akiyuki Crane or something different !!!! Yes timing is very difficult as the reverser rotor axle had to be pulled out until the 24T gear is disengaged in the 2nd worm gear box, then adjust its postition by one tooth at a time and push axle back in, test and repeat until correct. Very tedious !! (The rotor on the original design did not have much leverage as only 2L long. Wiith a 3L rotor arm the force to trip the reverser is much reduced and only one rubber band is required.) I have re-designed the reverser unit and eliminated the 2nd worm gear box. see image. The dark grey 24T gear can be slid out of engagement and adjusted, finally now got timing correct I think. Once it is correct the rotor axle can be slid out just enough to put a 1L beam on the axle to prevent the 24T gear shifting once axle pushed back in. The dwell unit changes over causing the differential to pause the output to crane part and also the drive to reverser, once the dwell arm hits the stop the drive is restored and train is released.

LEGO Automatic Crane Loader for GBC Train This complex train module is impressive BUT is designed for use with a Type1 train unit. see video below My next possible project (if I have enough parts) is make a simpler version of this but suitable for use with type 2 trains with electric switch. In order to understand how it works I built the drive / reversing unit following instructions by Blackbird for use with a type 1 train. It has proved to be quite a fiddly build and some changes had to be made due to lack of the correct parts but seems to function OK. But found the train reverser part lacks enough force to operate a type 2 train. Don’t really understand the purpose of the the differential and the dwell mechanism, as the train reverses OK whatever position the dwell unit is in. Unit for type 1 train:- Have now modified this unit to use the type 2 train. Stuuded reverser version removed and replaced by the now standard rubber band reverser. This was mounted separately and not directly powered by the train. Tried using just one worm gear case to turn the dwell arm and the reverser 2 lobe rotor but not possible then to alter the timing to reverse the train. So two worm gear cases used, one for the dwell, the other for the reverser. Unsure how to time the reverser, should it operate during the time as dwell arm rotates to the other position & differential starts to rotate and drive to the crane pauses ? Trigger arm had to be shortened to suit & train reverses OK. To use a type 2 train the lifting arms for the ball container will also require modifying to suit the extra width. Modified unit for type 2 trains Video:_

Elevator counter weight system now fitted. I opted for just one counter weight each side but connected to both guide rollers each side. Each is filled with 10 pce. UK 2 pence coins which are a perfect fit. Speed is now 10 secs to raise, 8 secs. to lower.

I had the same problem when at upper level but fixed it by adjusting the stop that limits how high the chock can rise. If the elevator reaches full height before chock is lowered that can cause a jam Try adding a 3/4 pin as shown in image to lower the chock a little bit earlier. or remove the 2L beam with pin/axle holes and use a plain pin with 1L beam or a 12 mm pulley wheel. Had no problems when at lower level since adding racks on both sides of the elevator platform.

Congratulations on a succesful show. That’s a fantastic run, a world record, (Guiness Book of records). The modifications are well and truly tested now, at that rate the balls will wear out. How many balls passed through ? Look forward to seeing your video. Thanks its been a good collaberation project. @Jonas Will you buid it again now that its proven ? The future: must add counter weights to my elevator and I have been looking at the Akiyuki Crane loader to see if it can converted, if I have enough parts, to use the the Ver. 2 trains with electric switch and simplify the build. re Video Shadow-Elenter posted his video of the LEGO World Utrecht event on the General GBC discussion thread a few days ago, the Elevator & Rotary Dumper can be see at about 8.00 mins.

Re derailment problem: I have been trouble shooting the passing module and suggest use some check rails & guard rail as shown in photo. You could also put a check rail omn the curved section on same side as the small lego one on the next two sleepers. Also found I had used the old style “type 1” 8T gear on axle with the 12T gear, used to cause train to move and engage with the racks when the trip arm stops it freely rotating - change to type 2 gears. Type 1 can jam in the pin hole due to its narrow collar. Also removed some weight from the two trip arms that lock the 12T gears by removing the 2 x 6 plates Improved but still occasionally train doesn’t move.

Thanks, I,ve now managed to lower the turntable module by further 1L.

GBC Train Turntable.- original design by Jonas. Previously I built a version of “Jonas” Turntable using a Lego Z60 turntable but this had problems with the 8T gear on the axle rubbing on the ends of the 4L gear racks with the train failing to engage on the racks when line up with the track, causing t/t to continue moving. Also train sometimes releases whist rotating. On a normal reverser when the trigger reverses the train the 24T gear is held stationary by the ratchet allowing the 8T gear to set the train in motion and engage the gear racks. —————————————————————————————— Mark 2 - Z60 turntable:- I have come up with a modified version using a worm gear drive & a Z60 turntable along with an improved train stopper arrangement, which has enough weight to prevent early train release until it hits the trip roller. When the stopper releases the train the worm drive holds the 24T gear stationary long enough for the 8T axle gear to act on the 24T gear setting the train in motion to engage with the rack allowing the train to exit the turntable.The gearing to drive the turntable requires a worm acting on one side of a 12T double bevel gear )DBG) & also a 12T single bevel gear. The other side of the 12T DBG drives the Z60 turntable. See image below. Run on extended test and so far very reliable. Can be configured for either 180º or 90 º turns. 90º turn module plus Video

I rarely use the Lego separator tool as its not very useful for studless lego parts. To separate parts when dismantling a build I use:- A old screwdriver with a 2mm diam. shaft with the end ground down to a point to push axles out and ease sections apart. A small craft knife using the sharp edge to open up the gap between parts, a slight twist then opens the gap further. Taking your time and with care parts are not damaged.

Are there any ? I recived a Mindstorms set last Xmas and so far have not progressed very far ! Doug72

They probably fill the boxes by weight, same as Lego do, which why you sometimes get extra small parts.

Unloader MOD - lifting frame. As many who have built this module know, the entry of the train with hopper into the jaws is very tight and unless close attention is made when building and ensuring the track is level at point of entry the hopper can jam in the jaws or fail to enter. Also some special parts are required for the end of the two jaws. I set out to improve this with using stud less only, apart from the discharge shoot (in Ncl colours) which had to be re-designed to connect to the stud less beams etc. Entry clearance now much improved but still holds hopper in correct orientation for the lifting & return cycle.

The early rubber bands with square cut, I think were rubber, the later ones with “o” cross section are silicon rubber & are much more durable.

Agree.

They are also selling TrixBrix Lego compatible track products including the double crossover at £40 plus £10 p&p.

See page 10 GBC Train system Mods & improvements for a discussion on rubber bands. I now remove mine from the reversers etc. when not in use.

By buying only one pack, enough to get started, be aware they can find their way into all sorts of places when testing GBC modules ! Still missing some.

£35 ?. Price to UK for orange or white balls is approx. £23 & for glow in the dark £30

I have only three Lego balls, the rest are PV or Etsy balls they perform OK, Are these plastic or glass ? re balls at GBC events, who supplies the balls & how do you know where yours get to at the end of the event ?

Good news, my teenage grandson is more into football than Lego now and two large boxes of Lego appeared today for me to sort through for useful parts and then store the rest at my home. He needs more room in his wardrobe ! l !

Smyth,s Toys UK on sale at £169.99 !