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doug72

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by doug72

  1. doug72
    Missed a ? mark, I meant which is better, top or bottom ?
  2. doug72
    Camera shack ! Agree, now run at a slower speed and is smoother. Not happy with ball return run and will sort that out when I rebuild. Your version steeper arm is at the top, the PV version is st the bottom. Which is better.
  3. doug72
    @Ankoku thanks for that info, yes agree carriages are too wide but that's because I used only parts from the rough terrain crane. If too many balls tried to enter the balls would either fall and jam the lowere crank or jam to slide for ball loading. I will order the parts I need to build the PG52 version carriages and await the instructions when they are ready. Has given me a good insight to how it functions. PS video was a bit out if focus because of a finger print on my camera lens !!!!!!!
  4. doug72
    Now built the Ferris Wheel following PV Productions instructions. Built as a closed loop stand alone module. Had problems with too many balls entering each car and overloading it, which resulting in excess balls falling out and jamming the lower crank lever. I modified entry gate to allow max 4 ball balls per car. Two “Slow down” devices also added on the return run to try and even out ball flow. Last slow down device is set to allow 3 or 4 balls to enter the car, and relies on the impetous from other arriving balls to kick start them to enter the car. Speed has to be adjusted to try and even out ball flow. Once instructions are available for the PG32 version I will re-build once I order some more LEGO Dark Stone Gray Bowed Panel 3 x 7 x 2 with 4.85 Hole (24119) Its quite noisy when running, Re rachet:- presume this is to prevent wrong way rotation. Video:
  5. doug72
    See this topic New 1L worm can mesh OK with Z60 & Z28 turntables so will also be possible with the new 28T bevel gear, you just need to build in a 1/2 stud for worm gear axle.
  6. doug72
    1. Not possible to change the gears for the L motor train, as there not enough space and has to use bevel gears. But you can changed the gears on the elevator to get required speed. Also using rechargable slows the L motor 2. 16 / 16 or 12/20 the best 3. If you are happy with the speed you are getting I would stick with it. Re Weather, can you send some hot weather over to Britain, each day never the same, either too hot or too cold, the jet stream is stuck over northern Europe and swinging back & forth over northern Britain !
  7. doug72
    Great news, persitence pays off. I have had the internal planatary gear box inside M motors fail in the past if over loaded causing it to slow down. Probably why Lego no longer produce them. Correction they are back in stock on the UK Lego shop website @ £4.99 each. Re aggressive Sariel guide states:- L motor the no load speed @ 9v = 272 rpm / @ 7 v = 203 rpm. M motor no load speed 275 rpm @ 9 v. / @ 7v = 185 rpm So at 9 volt (6 x AA batteries) RPM is almost the same but L motor has more power. M motor Torque 3.63 N.cm / L motor 6.48 cm, so L motor has approx 1.8 times more powerful than an M motor.
  8. doug72
    That the GBC spirit eventually you will succeed. Can you take & post a close up video of the elevator ascending, might be able to see what the problem is ?
  9. doug72
    @rskamen I use rechargable batteries in all my train units now - single use batteries get too expensive. I use 1300 & 2400mAh batteries and have a six battery charger for them that take AA & AAA batteries. Suggest check your train wheels for pressed onto axle too hard and run a train around a circle of track to see how long batteries last for, If I recall right I tried 24/8 step up gears when developing the worm drive version but settled on the 20/12 gears. See pages 11 to 14 for posts on the development of the elevator worn gear version.
  10. doug72
    Checked the rest of my quadrant gears and all ok but I take extra care now when dis-assembling these parts. Repaired ones now OK.
  11. doug72
    Changing to 12/20 gearing will slow the elevator down but will increase torque so may work, easy to try before deciding to rebuild. The original Akiyuki design was very tempremental due to the complex latch system with sudden uncontrolled drops due the rubber bands stretching. Berthils catch wouldn't improve that, but his elevator design without worm gear using the bottom catch may be the best way forward, it still uses the simple train releases at top and bottom. The latch is there to keep platform at lower level when the train departs, to stop the counterwieghts from lifting the platform when train is not on it. Just timed your elevator speed as shown in your video. approx 12 sec UP & 8 Secs down withw trip cycle entering elevator and all balls dumped -24 secs so should meet GBC ball rate of 1 ball per sec throughput. My elevator / dumper is lower than GBC standards so a bit faster cycle time.
  12. doug72
    Neither do I know why I did it ! Senior moment perhaps. Now found cracking on on the ends of the yellow quadrant gears where its only 1/2 L thick. These are ex BWE and had several uses since for other MOCs. Think I can salvage them with ABS glue. Correct alignment: Incorrect alignment: Cracked ends:
  13. doug72
    Problem solved although it baffles me why ! When I put the two gear rings together I had staggered the gear ring joints relative the other gear ring, result - binding. When joints between gear rings are lined up then the cage with 20T gears rolls freely. Joints at 90 / 180 / 270 / 360 degs. both sides = OK Joints on one gear ring at 90 / 180 / 270 /360 degs. Joints on other gear ring at 45 / 135 / 225 / 315 = Binds Must be some sight deformation in the ring segments. If a yellow gear quadrant is banana gear, then a black quadrant gear must be a ripe banana one !
  14. doug72
    Thanks for the quick response. I will trawl back through this thread. Rotates freely with only four 20T gears all on one side, as soon as you add the other four it binds up !! I am using the ripe bannana gears used only once before in ATC. Theres a slight "jump" as gear passes across the ends of each gear segment. Look forward to seeing your instructions. Doug.
  15. doug72
    @dunes Having dismantled my Rough Terrain Crane and consigned all the parts to their correct stowage boxes, I have started building the Ferris Wheel module following the PV Productions Fun Park instructions. NB I only intend to build the Ferris wheel module as a stand alone module. This appears to have the same mechanism as your Black Star module. Except I note that your version you are building uses 24T gears as supports for the gear rings. The support framing for these gears also differs. The PV module uses eight 20T double bevel gears to support the two gear rack rings and it is very stiff the turn by hand and has a tendency to shed 20T gears which keep sliding off the 3L axles. Tried 4L axles with 1/2 bushes to prevent gears coming off but still stiff to turn. If I removed 4 gears from one side rotation of the gear rings becomes a lot freer. Could you post a close up side view of your support frame with the 124T gears. I assume the rest of the mechanism to step the ferris wheel around is the same. Are there any instructions for your version as it looks a lot smoother and the hangers for the ball carriers is different. Thanks for any help you can give.
  16. doug72
    @darthulvyan This should help you upload images that can then be posted in your topic. Eurobricks does not host pictures. Your pictures should first be uploaded to an image hosting service such as Brickshelf or Flickr. How to upload images to Brickshelf Operating Flickr tutorial
  17. doug72
    0-3-0 ? 3 wheels ? Should be 0-6-0.
  18. doug72
    Still cannot see your photos. Google says can,t find images on this server ! Read the guidelines FAQ,s on how to post images, You need to upload them to Flickr or bricksafe for free then share images to embed them in your post.
  19. doug72
    Thanks - I call it a quadrant gear rack
  20. doug72
    What’s a banana gear ?
  21. doug72
    Update: Side swing Lift & Tilt Module (almost completed) Discharge chute installed and module tested, with L motor train unit and can easily carry 50 balls per trip. Cycle time from train entry & train release = approx. 25 seconds so well capable of keeping up with the standard GBC ball rate of 1 ball per sec. See video:- below. 1st run with white balls and 4 lego footballs - OK 2nd run with 50 orange balls lifted OK and dumped.easilly Counterweights still to improve and my former swing loader will now be dismantled for spares ( Gear Quadrants etc.for other GBC use). I have the instructions for the PV Sun wheel GBC module. Images:- Worm drive gear box. Crank drive gears. Gear rack / Z28 turntable and guide support 12T gear. Reverser unit showing change gears for rotor speed adjustment. Video:-
  22. doug72
    Cannot see any images on Safari & only loads of code on Firefox. You need to embed your images for us to see them.
  23. doug72
    I also see nothing
  24. doug72
    Update: Side swing Lift & Tilt Module (WIP) Further progress and finally got the timing correct OK, see video. Some issues still to resolve as the lift is a bit jerky when swinging up. Found unable to get enough swing range using a Z60 turntable so used a Z28 T/T and racks in a custom guide system based on the Akiyuki Train Unloader but arranged vertically. Racks:- 13L too short to give desired swing range and difficult to guide. 16L studded beam with 4 x 4L racks gave desired range but tended to bind the guides. 14L LEGO Gear Rack 14 x 2m with groove (18942) best and used without its housing. (If in the housing full range not possible) Setting the timing took a very long time and I used my modified train reverser that allows for the gearing for the trip rotor to altered without dismantling the unit !!! Also easy to adjust rotor trip point by sliding one gear out of engagement. Eventually found 16/16 gears worked. Several are combinations possible to speed up or slow down trip rotor, which has a single trip lobe. 8/24 - 24/8 - 12/20 - 20/12 - 16/16. The train unit drives a 24:1 worm gearbox via 20/12 step up gears which in turn drives both swing arms via a chain of gears 8T / 24T / 40T to give a 5:1 ratio which rotates the two LEGO Technic Half Beam 3 with Knob and Pin (33299) that move the crank connecting arms to raise & lower the gear racks. The 8/24/40 was used to align input and output axles on the 5 x 7 frames. Also tried using old style gears with 21/15 ratio on 7L centres but looked a bit out of place. Both arms have stops to set the correct position so train with hopper can enter & depart smoothly. Stops are arranged on each arm to make the ball hopper tilt. In the ball dump position there is enough slope inside the hopper for all balls to roll out without needing internal slopes. Next step is to build the ball collection chute and find out what is causing the jerkiness as the arms swing up. The jerkiness is only present when using a train unit with M motor, runs much smoother when using a train unit witlh L motor, and has more power. The two counterweight arms with tires are temporary to test the system and to be improved. A short video to show how it functions. A better video will be made once collection chute made & tested with balls !!
  25. doug72
    Looking good, Elevator & dumper running quite smoothly. An L motor definitly helps speed up the elevator. When you try with balls get ready to go hunting for escaped balls !! I to had problems with the locating lugs falling off and and used a dab of glue.
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