Grosse Kind

Had the same thought phantom. Ya slippin there Clifton ;)

Past it was always on the floor for building. Post an accident that ruined my bike and also mangled the leg a bit i do the bulk of my building on the bed with the legs crossed until it aches then the sore one dangling over the side to alleviate. Most playing and testing is then done later on either the kitchen table/counter or i let someone else have the fun with them wherever they wish. Glad to say the kids still tear all over the loungeroom with em as i used to. I did at one stage make a handle i transferred between a few models when walking was not an option, let me hear the pistons whirring and kept boredom at bay.

http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=120399entry2450074 Though not the final, would that not qualify as an official reveal? Personal taste that it looked less like a dissected ladybug in black, with orange just highlighting the massive hollows all over the shop round the doors, headlights, etc. The camo didn't detract as much to my eyes. As for contours, i can't foresee someone looking at the sexy zebra and confusing it with a mustang. Each to their own, but hoping for alluded limited special edition.

Why does it look like front and rear wheels are the same diameter? Someone keen to make a "rear" caliper sticker? Bring black the black and camo colourscheme, it looks like someone sat on a unimog. Porsche really signed off on this thing?

8880 I think i can almost already hear you swearing at it in advance from here ;) Want a hand with Righthanddriving it?

Love it. Did you go with a diff and up the gear reduction? The 853 cog box i popped together benefitted from 12/20's too though i presume the round slug motor handles the small wheels and high gearing fine as was. Editty bit: ta, got onto it on Flickr. Alles klar, very cool!

Dust my boy. How, praise be to Dog, is the contraption going to either function or even appear correct when you've skipped lego's virtual DNA/building blocks? Sure, you can sprinkle some on after the fact, but lego knows man, and it'll never fall for such a ruse. Do you ned me to post you some? I'll see if i can get a postcard fullblown smudgy and hoik it off in your general direction once cocoabunnychicken fest is done with. Don't bother stripping it down just yet but i can't guarantee it'll spread homogenously.

This will never do. You left out a vital component in that first pic thats gonna ruin the whole build Clive.

Chose to chase down a replacement for one of my broken greys Rowie. No idea what level of violence the previous owner must of perpetrated on it to snap the spout off but woulda surmised the handle to be more fragile. Sort of more pleased without the chrome myself as bar the spring unit coils they don't blend in with the reat of it but i guess that might be what they were chasing. Do they make the parts in chrome to allow a matching dizzy as well perhaps?

Agreed: if its vague/not your style its generally best left alone.

My topic titles been changed, dunno why as it wasn't quite devoid of replies as was. Hi andy. Did you pin this down to anything in particular? With my other baby i've run halfbushes on the inner of front wheel axles, changed the universal joint angularities, and removed one of the rack gear pieces which smoothed it out quite a lot. With this one i'm 1800 miles from my spares collection for a month and made this small alteration of all standard parts and its assisted pretty well with no great detriment to original appearance once the black 4x2 plate is back on.

As an eternal child, yep Andy, memories. Slight difference being though that i got my first one of these at 31. Not exactly been the wall crashy type but had to remove the grey box by hand last night to make an alteration to the front axle, and as you described, it exploded and grey bricks went all over the shop. Found em all but yeah, kabooom!

Bought, and arrived to it with several months between. Proved well worth the wait. Not perfect but overall quite good with minimal broken/missing parts. As a further plus, trans is great in all three ratios.

Watching the tom hanks movie "Big" the other night and something jumped out at me. The laser tag scene in the toy store and out of the blue came the red. Have seen the film numerous times but never spotted it before. Love things like this when i see em.

No details till its done tommy, and even then i'm probably gonna be the only one pleased at the fruits of my (and contributions of the aforementioneds) toils but i've named it the triqueen. Progress is slow and preliminary visuals are hideous (a face even its own mother, me, has trouble with loving) so i wouldn't hold your breath waiting.

They did indeed Nic, but could work effectively without them as witnessed by their only being standard equipment over here from about 73 onwards across the range rather than just the prestige or sports models. And even then, only ever on the front end. Rear axle was live with leaf springing but handling is markedly improved with its inclusion from the aftermarket.

Come off it Rowie, i got dragged over the coals last time i asked a euro a question in deutsch, surely they'll accept us colonials yabberin on in a bitta' stroin :) Kris: i'll PM ya a snap of the monstrosity. The main reason i slotted it together in LDD is to utilise bits i don't own or have enough of. That, and to be able see the little bugger in one colour as its real life counterpart looks like a box of crayons exploded (as i did with my last freebuild, i love that the program lets me have a record of what made for safekeeping). Once i have it on an LXF file i can strip it if need be to make my next tasteless creation with its entrails but even then, LDD won't let me use a lot of the bits on it as they're obsolete. I also would like to maybe someday run off the BOM file and bricklink order all the frame bits in one/maybe two conciliatory colours but no rush just yet.

Hi LPE, quite a fan of your works. Just a quick clarification as to my example having been only that. I slipped parts i have in my collection together to demonstrate the principle less so than as a prototype for implementation. Generally i don't build anything of any great mass so though it isn't going on would have some similarities in workings to that of what it is based on as far as mounting points/fuctionality/return to centre characteristics if used in a lightweight applcation with more or less rubbers for increasing stiffness to taste as deemed necessary. Not saying its going to do much to control body roll at any great speed as i make non-powered push alongs but the principle works. I'm still predominantly a "square piston" boy so ultimate realism isn't so much my thing. https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Alfetta_front_suspension.jpg Allan, So your worm gear was as per the thread on the adjuster bolt to vary tension? I like that as a solution! Was there a good deal of consistency amongst the axles as to spring rates? Chrysler generally used/sold bars made to very specific tolerances as well as being marked for placement handing of left or right side as well as which end was anchored to the chassis and which was at the wheel end. I've seen people use 0.850" bars on one side and 0.890" on the other for use in dirt oval speedway racing here in oz and though 40 thou doesn't sound much the tension side to side variation is something to behold.

G'day kris. Had hells own drama tryna get compound angles/rotations/lengths/clearances/ involving a pair of uni's at different heights and planes to link up drive betwixt four axles, two joiners, and a train of gears at either end on my Project on LDD and ol mate stepped up to the plate and selflessly sussed em out, fixed, and sent it back to me with nought bar my simple request and was happy as larry to be of assistance on what was boggling a good few of us to do. Upon arrival in sorted out format i just cut/pasted it into my model from the jig i sent him and all was apples. Any clearer sport? If it'd been a derogatory statement that someone had screwed me around or had no idea then i reckon yes, a detailed and open to scrutiny explanation would be justified but a thankyou in public not so much. As such i saw no issue with leaving it a fairly open statement. Ta Nerds, was in that vein. No question theres many others that do great things to help too on the overall, just these were ones i can name from my dealings/experience thus far. Most here lack ego which certainly does help, and at the end of the day i agree thats a bloody handy thing on a resource such as eurobricks is.

Antiroll or sway bars as we refer to em could be a bit complex on plastic. They require a twist and return motion that while you will get some flex out of an axle if you thin it down in the guts to a round profile and let it act in torsion theres a higher likelihood that with any real motion it'll shear rather than return in time. Other thing is my vehicles of choice use longitudinal bars and the fact is if you get a good size scratch on them they act a a stress riser and they'll shear/crack/shatter under load and go off like a rifle report. E Type jags, near all 60's chryslers, various 4WD and light commercial vehicles, and numerous other cars use the same system on their front end. Plus god only knows how many cars bootlid and bonnet stays before gas struts became the pitiful norm that they are today. As i couldn't see a sensible way of making a lego axle behave reliably i used a rubber axle connector in twist to semi springload the liftback hinges on my 8880. It isn't a torsion bar as such as it's the anchor point (rubber cross slot) that does the "give" as opposed to the axle, but the principle is there. Could be adapted in principle with a pair of axles at paralell to each other feeding out of each side of a rubber bush with right angles each end feeding to the lower control arms but will in my opinion be fine, but why spoil the handling adding stiffness side to side vs except for 8865 what is generally either mushy or ridiculously heavy spring rates that make it behave like a wallowy yank-tank or the other extremity like a gokart. I've built a quick simple example here i wouldn't bother trying to mount it on ant of my babies as though it adds a touch of realism will just upset the suspension compliance and playability. This shows it in torsion as it would behave with one control arms spring in full rebound and the other in full compression. Dr JB: never heard a sway bar described as a torsion bar as it isn't a torsion bar as such while it has to flex out of torsion when unloaded to go the other way rather than constant but varied tension in its operation. Shall we just agree you've got the incorrect term irrespective of whether its in common use or not?

Like to thank Zerobricks for his help with a nightmare that had four of us scratchin our heads for days and he sorted in as long as it took to send two Emails. Thanks to Grum64 for putting me in contact with him as well. Whilst i'm about it, AllanP for helping me thwart a geartrain issue neither of us had encountered, Thomol for pointing me in the right direction with a hassle that gave me the irrits for 6 years, Sariel for his very handy gear combo and ratio calc'er that saved a newbie to the joys of 12/20/36 tooth gears and where they can or can't go together a lot of headscratching, and most of you mob on here in general for thoughts and banter. Cheers, Glen.

Evenin matey. The longer steering axles? If you note on the dash/column support theres two extra grey pins stabilising a 1x4 brick and the column itself is outboard one extra studhole. I did this to moreso centralise the wheel vis-a-vis its relation to the drivers seat. A six was used in place of the 4 axle between the unis to move it across and minimise joint angularity with the new offset. When i did it i was short of a second six for between wheel and upper uni so used the 8 it had, only higher. I personally think the reach from the seat to wheel with mine is less unrealistic so it stayed. I also eliminated one of the gear rack sections on the steering gear to get rid of a dead spot where the 8 toother fell between their joint. Its on the dash support in front of the trans selector box for safe keeping. Unless you meant the half bush spacers in the front stubaxles? They went in as the wheels rubbed the kingpins without them. Anyone spot the one brick height higher radiator? The gearbox has altered ratios, a second transfer/pickup (where the three 8 toothers carry drive from the slide through 24 of the countershaft to the 24 that makes up the front crank counterweight) shaft, and a 4x1 brick mounted vertically bracing the main and countershafts axles from spreadflex. The shifter is with detents to stop it flipping into false neutrals or unintentionally between gears as i shove it back and forth around the floor. Could have had a go at a better gate system along the lines of 8865 but didn't have it or many spare pieces when i built her up late last decade and like the lengthened steering column i just got comfy with it and never bothered to alter once i had the correct bits to do so. GNAC: i RHD all my babies, so far 8868 is the only that doesn't do anything. I added a dummy wheel to it and of course its on the correct side. Tried the wheels on the other two earlygirls and though i didn't mind them i won't be procuring extra sets. I also thought i'd see what 8865 looked like with the original rims respaced and reversed while i had two of them off anyway. Not sold on it so alls back as once was beside 8860 and i'm leaving its sister car boxstock original when it finally arrives anyway. With reversed rims.

I quite like it. Seems weighty enough that it tows well too.

Hi. Not so much need, just didn't mind how it appeared in the LDD drawing where old mate had to sub in bits for those not still in use on the program. Also, i've gone for a more off road sized tyre on my project and swapped the 54120's i bought that come on 9398/41999 onto my Unimog and put its tyres on the 8880 rims on my project. The shuffling around left me with the rim/tyre combo pictured and chucked em on. Also spares up the 24x43's for another oddball project i have in mind down the track.

Saw this in LDD by S_Bartfast (thanks again) some time ago and tried it with mine. The 8110 tyres gave some drama at the back as they scraped the chassis when pushing backward but could just be that the control arm inner pivot pins on mine are a tad worn. Made some purchases a while back from a few brickink suppliers for a project i felt like buggering around with and moved a set of 8880 tyres onto 8110 rims and spaced the fronts out by a toothed half bush per side and added a couple of steering stops to it as the offset makes them scrub on full lock. She rolls pretty well and i don't mind the way it looks. May try them on the other two early sets in my little cluster as well but its too damned hot outside my bedroom to want to bother now. Thinking i might leave them there as i've a stock 8860 coming in a few weeks. Thoughts welcomed, even if just the whining of dustnazis.