suenkachun

Here are two more Bricks I want to see in LDD. 1. Plate 1X1 Round W/3.2 Shaft (Part 26407). Although this part is only found in three Ninjago Sets it's quite important being the only 1x1 Brick/Plate with a Shaft. Currently I have to insert a Satellite Dish in the House I’m building within a 1x1 space, but the only Plate with a Shaft found in LDD is 1x2 (Plate 1x2 W/Shaft ø3.2), so I had to insert a Roof Tile 1x2 Inv. beneath the Plate to make everything work, but the drawback is the Inverted Roof Tile is quite loose as it’s only attached to my House at the bottom. The a 1x1 arrangement can still be loose but at least it’s not that loose compared with the 1x2 arrangement. 2. 1/4 Circle Tile 1X1 (Parts 25269, 26484 and 26485). The first one is a Meium Azur version found in Set 41124: Heartlake Puppy Daycare (two are used), the second one (1/4 Circle Tile 1X1 “No. 1”) is a slice of Brick Yellow Waffle found in Set 41126: Heartlake Riding Club (four are used) while the third one (1/4 Circle Tile 1X1 “No. 2”) is a slice of Watermelon found in three different LEGO Friends Sets. Currently I have designed a mini Grand Piano which requires curved treatments at several locations, and I thought that I could “borrow” this Brick and use a Black version for my Piano Cover as I chose to use Flat Tiles completely on the very top (in the second trailer of the upcoming LEGO Batman Movie showcasing parts of Wayne Manor I could see that for Bruce Wayne’s Grand Piano LEGO chose to retain the use of Curved Plates on the top part of the Piano Cover instead of trying to fill up the gaps with Flat Tiles as by doing this every single curved bit could be covered, where my arrangement will still leave some curved gaps on the very ends). Once this Brick is found in LDD Extended I can then “borrow” it at any time.

Thank you for that, so it's actually the control panal of various vehicles such as Helecopters, Race Cars and Boats! As a result, for my 100th post (finally made it!!!) I'll report this as a latest bug of LDD, although I'll do this in the correct topic.

Can someone tell me how many pairs of Shop Doors 4x5 (Parts 47899 and 73914) actually exist in reality? This question is due to the different colours existing in the Regular Mode of LDD compared to those found on Brickset here and here. On Brickset, we can find the following two complete pairs: Medium Stone Grey/Transparent (Parts 4258477 and 4258478) and Medium Stone Grey/Reddish Brown (Parts 4514969 and 4514970). For the Bright Red/Transparent pair, only the Left one is listed on Brickset here (Part 73436) but according to the image of Set 5149 “Doors and Windows” found here there should also be a Right one, which was eventually found on Brick Owl here: (Part 73435), meaning that the Brickset Database is missing the Right door. This makes three complete pairs. Moving onto LDD, all of the above three pairs can be found in the Regular Mode, but there is also a White/Transparent pair which is not found anywhere else (unless I have been looking in the wrong places). Next, we look at single Shop Doors which do not/not yet have a partner to form a pair. The first one is the Black/Transparent one, where only a Left one (Part 4503011) was ever made for a LEGO Racers Set: Set 8135: “Bridge Chase”, found on Brickset here. As I needed a Right one for my current build (which does not exist yet) I “created” one in LDD Extended using the “Paint Tool”. Other than this, four other individual Shop Doors are found in the Regular Mode of LDD which do not seem to exist in reality: the Right Black/Tr. Light Blue one, the Right Bright Yellow/Transparent one, the Left Black/Tr. Brown one and the Left Medium Stone Grey/Tr. Brown one. What I need now is more information on the White/Transparent pair and the four individual ones in LDD, plus whether if there is a Right Black/Transparent one. If any of the four weird ones in LDD are non-existing they should be removed from the Regular Mode of LDD.

Thank you for that. Although the images can still be viewed by clicking on the links I'll try to update them as soon as I have sorted everything out.

It has always been my wish to build a working elevator which can be incorporated into my creations, and if you search on Google or YouTube there are hundreds of solutions, ranging from simple “Pulleys And Strings” systems to ones controlled by LEGO Mindstorms NXT components (which I tend to avoid as they have a relatively large physical size, making it harder to incorporate into a small building or structure), sometimes even with automatic doors. After a brief investigation, I decided that the first solution was the best option for me. However, a brand new challenge appeared: as I often use LEGO Digital Designer (LDD) to build my creations digitally, I had to develop a working elevator in LDD. The main issue here is related to LDD’s limitations: you can’t do anything with the Strings provided in LDD (such as tying them up and placing them onto Pulleys) or even attach all of the Gears and Pulleys to make the system work completely. As I was planning to build a digital house with a working elevator included for a friend a solution had to be developed. After a more in-depth search I stumbled upon the following video on YouTube. The above video showed a simple shopping mall with a working elevator. As it did not involve any Strings or Pulleys it was my answer, even though it was only working manually. However, the creator did not show us exactly how he built the elevator, and quoting his response to such a request: “I can’t, I tore it down, and I’m selling all of my Lego bricks at a yard sale.” As a result, I started to study the video carefully in order to find out exactly how it was built. Very soon something popped up but there was still a small error. After refining my design a few more times I have finally successfully uncovered the manually working elevator in LDD! https://www.dropbox.com/s/rv78x4w95imzri0/Elevator 1.png https://www.dropbox.com/s/wiuyb9ytg4n3ebg/Elevator 2.png Let’s start with the elevator itself. As shown above, it’s a simple 8x8x7 box (height of a floor) with a 6x6x6 space for the minifigures to stand inside, while the computer screen at the back represents all the buttons they have to press. The door is a Lattice Door (Part 60621) as it’s easy to manipulate and has that look of an old style elevator [I could have easily created sliding doors like modern ones but a Plate W/Gliding Groove (Part 30586) is only in 2x8 which is too wide for my type of elevator, and there are also no narrow frames plus doors/glass present to fit into such Plate; plus the Elevator Shaft needs to be specially adapted for the sticking out bit of the Sliding Plate, making it harder to insert the Elevator Doors on the Shaft itself on each floor]. The vertical Black 1x2 Plate is supposed to show the floor which the elevator is currently on. On top the elevator it is attached to a String W. Knobs 30M (Part 63142), which equals to the Chain present in the video (due to restrictions in LDD I could not attach it as the creator did in the video). Next, we come to the elevator shaft. Shown below is the entire elevator shaft, where the most important thing is that my shaft is four floors tall, with each floor being seven bricks tall plus one brick present in-between each floor, and more bricks above the third floor for the important joint. The elevator actually sits at the same level as the bottom of the elevator shaft, which was placed there with the help of a plate beneath it. That plate was later replaced with a series of Flat Tiles so that the elevator is only attached to the top of the shaft. Note that I have also used Lattice Doors attached to the shaft on each floor (to prevent a minifigure from falling into it). https://www.dropbox.com/s/gocv7m2drbgy8qr/Elevator Shaft Overview.png The top of the elevator shaft is shown below. As you can see there are two covers opening in opposite directions, which makes it easier for a minifigure to carry out repairs (open either cover or both then climb down/inside). The second image contains the important joint which answers the most important question: how does the elevator work? https://www.dropbox.com/s/zdji7jiyylja7js/Elevator Shaft Top 1.png https://www.dropbox.com/s/nn0c10lxiomv9v1/Elevator Shaft Top 2.png Below are three screenshots of the important joint. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ukqliy1nvzrh4sj/Elevator Rotating Joint 1.png https://www.dropbox.com/s/nq5v0urnbz5hjgp/Elevator Rotating Joint 2.png https://www.dropbox.com/s/o1tmufxqox869jt/Elevator Rotating Joint 3.png The joint is attached to the elevator shaft one brick further out than the shaft wall, on top of a 2x4 Brick with two inverted 2x2 Roof Tiles beneath it. The joint itself consists of an Angle Plate 1x2 / 2x2 (Part 44728) placed on top of two 1x4 Bricks, covered on top (a 1x4 Flat Tile) and the two sides (two 1x1 Plates). A Turn Plate (Parts 3679 and 3680) is placed before the Angle Plate with two 2x2 Round Bricks further above, which are then connected to the middle of a Plate 4x4 Round W. Snap at the back. The theory is that once we attach the String W. Knobs 30M or other bricks such as Chains onto both the elevator and the end of the Plate 4x4 Round, we can then rotate the Round Plate 4x4 for the String/Chain to coil itself around the two 2x2 Round Bricks and raise/lower the elevator, which is exactly how the elevator in the video is moved (but that joint and shaft seems to use a more complicated construction method)! In reality, the turning functions will be carried out by a controlled motor instead of the Turn Plate, but to make the manual turning process easier, I have inserted two Clamps 1x2 (Part 2432) and a 2x4 Flat Tile to cover the remaining space on the Round Plate 4x4. My only question left is related to how exactly will the String/Chain coil itself around the two 2x2 Round Bricks. As you can see in the third screenshot above, I have created a gap of two Plates between the String and the Round Plate 4x4 so that the String being near the middle of the two Round Bricks there will be enough room for the coiling to happen. However, if someone can prove that the gap is not necessary I will modify the design to exclude or shorten (by one Plate) the gap both by the joint and directly above the elevator itself. I hope that this tutorial has been useful to everyone building digitally or wants to build a very simple working elevator. P.S., As an added bonus below is a screenshot showing what a minifigure needs to do in order to enter the elevator (in theory). https://www.dropbox.com/s/m4pagkirdd6znsu/Elevator Door Opening Sequence.png A minifigure presses the button on the right and the elevator either arrives or is already there, then he/she pulls the first door towards him/her. Next, the elevator door is pushed forward and the minifigure steppes inside, then closing the first door behind him/her. Once inside the minifigure closes the elevator door and presses the button for the required floor, causing the elevator to move. When it arrives on the floor, the minifigure gets out by reversing the entry process (without pressing the button), but both doors must be closed after him/her to ensure that everything will work fine.

Thank you for everyone's help. I can now tell you that all issues related to that NVidia Card have been fixed after I sent my laptop for servicing. The entire motherboard was replaced so everything should be fine from now on!And here is a new collision error I found recently (possibly a second one as well). As seen here, a Sign - Stop (Part 3900) is hung vertically on the wall beside a Cup Without Wreath (Part 6269) but this should be impossible. However, the weird thing is these two bricks were NOT REMOVED after I restarted LDD! Also I'm not sure if this should work or not, but referring to here, a pair of Scissors W. 3.2 Shaft (Part 18920) is hung vertically on the wall using a Brick 1x1 W/Holder (Part 60475), which is also in between two of them. My question is whether the Scissors can actually fit between the two Holders as the space seems a bit tight. Anyway it is once again not removed after I restarted LDD so I may be wrong.

Another bug: Referring back to my earlier post, I always have to insert a Baseplate beneath the layer of Plates to add more Bricks/Plates on top as LDD usually prioritize attaching it beneath the Plates, which actually lowers the ground level slightly. When doing that, I discovered that if you attach one Baseplate the ground level can be restored by deleting it, but if you attach two or more Baseplates this will happen: after deleting all of them either separately or together (by selecting all of them first) the ground level is not restored, therefore slightly lower than the original. This means that you then have to move everything to fix the issue, which can be quite costly if you have a large model as it may crash during the moves, causing you to loose parts/all of your work (the unsaved bits). As a result, restoration of the ground level should happen no matter how many Baseplates you attach beneath your normal ground level.

Thank you for your reply. I'll check it out later as for now it only happens once in a while.

I have to quote this old post again as this bug has become increasingly annoying for me lately. My current project is a house were each level is being built separately but when necessary I'll attach parts of the level back to the lower level to make sure that it fits. As a result trying to attach bricks on top of the "floor" (one or more layers of plates) of each level is sometimes extremely difficult. I can add a Baseplate beneath each level but with the current brick count of abut 18,400 bricks (and much more to come) LDD occasionally crashes even when doing the most simple tasks (e.g., hiding/selecting bricks, painting bricks in LDD extended, etc.), which makes adding/moving a large Baseplate can make me loose much of my unsaved work. As I mentioned in an earlier post, my more powerful NVidia Graphics Card has cracked up and now I rely on the Intel Card which just meets the minimum system requirements of LDD. Therefore either my Laptop has to be fixed (which makes the manipulation of large Baseplates much easier) or LEGO has to try harder to avoid such issues.P.S., The "Select Tool" is sometimes buggy, at least for me. Occasionally when you click to select a brick it is being dragged out instead. This is especially annoying when you are trying to select a large number of bricks then your operation is suddenly interrupted by a brick being dragged out, meaning that you have to start over. My observation is that when you move your mouse to select the next brick, LDD thinks that the movement of your mouse is so great that you're trying to drag the brick out, not select it. As a result this tool's accuracy has to be improved.

Here's another old bug which I've actually noticed even before the recent update. When using the colour filter to select 40-Transparent in the regular mode of LDD, a number of other bricks in different colours will also be filtered in and displayed in the menu, which also means that these bricks are actually partially incorrectly coloured, but after inserting them into the model they're all fine, so it's just something to do with the menu. This issue is present in the following seven bricks. 1. Part 3069: Flat Tile 1x2 (Image). In this case filtering Transparent will end up with three colours: the Transparent one, the 311-Tr. Bright Green one and another Transparent one. The second one is filtered in since its sides are incorrectly painted in Transparent. The third one is the odd one out as there's only a slightly different colour on the sides with a normal Transparent top (which should be treated as a repeated brick, I guess). 2. Part 98138 Flat Tile 1x1, Round (Image). In this case filtering Transparent will end up with five colours: the Transparent one, the 5-Brick Yellow one, the 312-Medium Nought one, the 283-Light Nought one and the 126-Tr. Bright Bluish Violet one. The four extra bricks are filtered in since their sides are all incorrectly painted in Transparent. 3. Part 50747: Dome ø47.84 w. combi hinge (Image). In this case the 41-Tr. Red one will be filtered in alongside the Transparent one as its lower half is incorrectly painted in Transparent. 4. Part 90640: Shell A 4M Ball Snap ø10.2 (Image). In this case filtering Transparent will result in seven completely different colours (and there's actually no Transparent version of the brick present in the regular mode!): the 192-Reddish Brown one, the 38-Dark Orange one, the 191-Flame Yellowish Orange one, the 141-Earth Green one, the 37-Bright Green one, the 268-Meduim Lilac one and the 315-Silver Metallic one. All bricks are filtered in since most of their surfaces are all incorrectly painted in Transparent. 5. Part 90639: Shell A 5M Ball Snap ø10.2 (Image). In this case filtering Transparent will result in six completely different colours (and there's actually no Transparent version of the brick present in the regular mode!): the 154-New Dark Red one, the 138-Sand Yellow one, the 321-Dark Azur one, the 43-Tr. Blue one, the 47-Tr. Fluore.Redd. Orange one and the 297-Warm Gold one. All bricks are filtered in since most of their surfaces are all incorrectly painted in Transparent. 6. Part 98569: Chest No. 2, 2012 (Image). This part should be in 37-Bright Green but was filtered in since most of its surfaces are incorrectly painted in Transparent. 7. Part 3626 Mini Head (Image). In this case filtering Transparent will end up with four colours: the Transparent one, the 311-Tr. Bright Green one, the 294-Phosph,Green one and the 143-Tr. Fluore. Blue one. The three extra bricks are filtered in since their tops and bottoms are all incorrectly painted in Transparent. To sum up, these bricks should all be painted correctly from head-to-toe which means that they shouldn't show up when using the colour filter to select Transparent. Also, that repeated Transparent Flat Tile 1x2 should be deleted or have the correct colour painted on it if it's supposed to represent a certain colour. Thank you for everyone's attention.

Thanks for that. Now just the Speedometer left (which actually has a higher priority than the $10!).

I've noticed two new decos for the Flat Tile 1x2 in the new update (from the LXF file posted earlier): a Speedometer and a $10 Banknote. Can someone tell me which exact sets (or future sets) they are (or will be) from in reality or more directly their correct colours in reality? I want to use these decos in builds which attempt to use only "bricks available in reality" (by sticking to the "Regular Mode" and cross-checking the bricks online if necessary), but after a long search on Brickset, Bricklink and Google I couldn't find either decos listed anywhere. So I gave up, believing that perhaps they simply don't exist in reality yet (I even checked all the Speed Champion sets for the Speedometer, but no luck). Thanks in advance!

I've just found a temporary solution for that really slow and outdated colour palette in LDD Extended. Normally, when using LDD Extended, the first row of colours (26-Black, 199-Dark Stone Grey, 194-Medium Stone Grey, 208-Light Stone Grey, 1-White, 154-New Dark Red, 201-Bright Red and 308-Dark Brown) is completely blocked as the palette is simply too tall, therefore you often have to select and paint all the required bricks into these colours using the "Paint tool" afterwards. The second row of colours (192-Reddish Brown, 330-Olive Green, 138-Sand Yellow, 5-Brick Yellow, 38-Dark orange, 18-Nought, 312 Medium Nought and 106-Bright Orange) is partially covered so you can still kind-of access the colours by clicking the very bottom of each colour. This image shows the above situation clearly. Just now, I stumbled upon a way to display every row of the colour palette which finally enables us to use the first row of colours conveniently. As shown here, all you need to do is click on the "Filter bricks by colo(u)r" icon, then you "restore" the LDD window by clicking on the middle icon located on the top right hand corner, which immediately displays every row of the colour palette! As a result, just repeat this each time you need to use row 1 of the colour palette then click on the same middle icon to "maximise" your LDD window again and continue building. I hope that this temporary solution has helped every LDD Extended user to use that annoying colour palette more easily. P.S., Since the first colour in the LDD colour palette is "26-Black", shouldn't all the bricks in LDD Extended be shown in Black instead of "201-Bright Red"? As Black is such a dark colour, maybe LEGO chose Bright Red since the Bricks can be seen more clearly, so I may be wrong.

It's not you. Most of the new parts and decos are currently for extended only.

Try to download it from the LDD website and reinstall the programme at ldd.lego.com. What should have happened was when you opened the programme a small pop-up window would appear informing you that an update patch is available, and if you don't update LDD will remain running in offline mode.

It took me such a long time to compile, but I've just noticed the biggest group of Collision Errors ever found in LDD. Apparently, up to 273 bricks should be affected!!! These bricks all have one thing in common: they are either shafts, sticks or any brick with a round post (either flat top or hemisphere top) which fits in Pl. Round 1x1 W. Throughg. Hole (Part 85861). The issues arise when a plate is added beneath the 85861 and the shaft/stick/etc. is inserted into the hole of the round plate, where inserting the brick into its furthest possible position collides with the stud of the plate beneath, therefore always causing it to be removed the next time you open the file. As it's impossible to show all 273 errors, I've chosen the following two examples (shown in screenshots). All bricks with errors are shown in Medium Stone Grey and all 85861 plus any plates added beneath are shown in Transparent. 1a. Place two 85861 on the ends of a Plate 1x3 respectively, then insert the Ice Lolly (Part 30222) and the Cone 1x1 Invertede W. Shaft (Part 11610) into each hole respectively. make sure that the ice Lolly and the Cone are inserted into the furthest possible position (Image). 1b. Remove the two 85861 and you can see that the ends of the Ice Lolly and the Cone have gone through the studs of the Plate 1x3 beneath (Image). 1c. Save the file, then the Ice Lolly and the Cone will both be removed the next time you open the file (No Image). 2a. Most bricks just "go through" the studs beneath by a few millimetres, but the Spider's Web W. Shaft Ø 3.2 (Part 909981) seems to be more than that. As shown here, after inserting the Web into the 85861 even the slanting bit of the Web goes through the 85861, and I can confirm that it still goes into the stud below (No Image). 2b. Apparently, the slanting bit of the Web also goes through a Round Brick 1x1 (Image). Anyway, the LXF file containing all 273 bricks (all are in Medium Stone Grey) can be downloaded here. The solution is very simple: All of these bricks should only be allowed to be inserted as far as the edge of the stud beneath (different for bricks with a flat top and a hemisphere top), and bricks like the Spider's Web should not be allowed to be inserted too deep to avoid the slanting collision. Thank you for everyone's attention!

One of my wanted Bricks: Plate Round W. 1 Knob (18674) was finally added, and other bricks were actually a pleasant surprise: Container Walls (23405), Inverted Roof (22889), Brick With Half Bow(24309), Left/Right Plate 2x2 27Deg (24299/24307), Plate With Half Bow Inverted (24201), Brick With Four Knobs (22885), Brick 1x2x3 (22886), Plate With Two Shafts (18649), Plate With Ball End (22890) and Mop Head (24085). As I intended to develop an Ideas set, some of these new bricks actually helped me reduce the brick count, which is very important as LEGO usually recommends large projects to scale-down. 18674 improved a section of my model while 24085 is very important as I used to use the Mini Broom as both a broom and a mop. But 22885 is my true saviour. In the past, there are several ways to "hang" a plate/flat tile on a brick. Take a 2x2 plate/flat tile as an example. 1. Place a Brick 1x2 With Two Knobs or a 1x2 Brick With Two Holes with two Connector Pegs With Knob inserted either on the top half or lower half of the plate/flat tile at the back. 2. Hang the plate/flat tile on an Angle/Angular plate (place behind the top half or lower half of the plate/flat tile for the 1/2 version). 3. Connect an Angular Plate Top 1/2 and an Angular Plate Bottom 1/2 with a Brick 1x2 in between then hang the the plate/flat tile on top. Pros and cons: First one leaves no gap between the brick and the plate/flat tile (so perfect for round plates/flat tiles) but is less secure. Second and third ones are more secure but leaves gap in between the brick and the plate/flat tile (will also leave corners showing behind round plates/flat tiles). The new 22885 not only reduces my brick count but leaves no gap in between the the brick and the plate/flat tile plus secures the plate/flat tile well. To sum up, although this update is still not perfect, it has helped me a lot, so A BIG THANK YOU TO LEGO anyway! P.S., Am I the first one to notice that the colour of "Silver Metallic" displayed in the new version is actually darker than the one before (therefore becoming more realistic)?

Aside from the different bugs I've found in LDD, something else happened to LDD on my laptop today and I'm hoping that I've posted in the right place for some answers. I opened LDD on my laptop and the display was super weird. I've been using LDD on my laptop since it was on Windows 8.1, and back then due to limitations of my Intel® HD Graphics 4400 I switched over to the NVIDIA GeForce 840M and set it as the default graphics card. Since then, everything was alright (although I still failed to open one of my previous large models). When I upgraded my laptop to Windows 10, the Intel® HD Graphics 4400 was magically fixed so now I could use either, but I stuck with NVIDIA anyway. When things went wrong today, I immediately opened the NVIDIA Control Panel (GeForce Experience) and sure enough, the Control Panel soon updated itself and afterwards I also updated the NVIDIA driver to version 362.00. However, after both updates the same issues still existed! To make a long story short, this image clearly shows that the display has gone mad after opening one of my models (it also went wrong in the welcome page and when building a brand-new model)! Also, this image clearly shows that the Control Panel has gone mad as well! I've tried opening LDD using the Intel® HD Graphics 4400 and it kinda worked (still a bit unstable when opening large models), so it must have been NVIDIA going wrong. Can someone tell me what to do at this stage or should I just wait for NVIDIA to fix the issues? Thank you for everyone's attention! EDIT: Thank goodness I couldn't set Firefox to run on the NVIDIA card by default, as it crashed when I tried to, and other programmes have also crashed when running the card!

The connections between the different types of rails in LDD is quite confusing. Currently, there are two main types of 16 M rails: Rail 16M With El. (Parts 74746, 74747, 75541 and 75542) and Rail 16 M (Parts 53400 and 53441). Apparently, you can connect both types to each other! As the new 16 M rails are connected via a holder and a round joint, connecting the old type to them will make the holder and round joint "melt into" the end of the old type. Also, if one type of rail conducts electricity and the other is just plastic, should they be given a connection with each other at all (although RC Trains are still compatible with the old 9V rails)? Anyway, here's a summary of what should be done in LDD in relation to the rails. 1. After a closer look at the old 9V rails, I discovered that they are also connected via a holder and a round joint (check the 9V sub-theme on Bricklink here). Therefore the 9V rails in LDD are actually inaccurate as they all have a straight end. In this case I'm not so sure about whether the two types of rails could be connected or not, but all the 9V rails in LDD should at least be updated to have the holder and round joint at each end. 2. While this rail confusion is still going on, please add the following parts into LDD in order to better separate the two types of rails. Old 9V rail: Train, Track 9V Crossing (Part 32087). New Plastic rail: Switch Left (Part 18612 and Part 53406), Switch Right (Part 18596 and Part 53403) and Train Rail Crossing (Set 7996, Part 57794). If someone can clear all this up thank you in advance!

Just asking though, is the blue party hat a separate element from the dog? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for that information! Now my problem is partially solved!

I've recently started to build a project which involves a Bulldog. Instead of a brick-built one, I actually need a new plastic element of the dog in the correct colour and the correct printings, just like those dogs in the "Animal" category. As I want to eventually post the project on Ideas and usually they can't produce new LEGO parts moulds, can someone give me some advice on the best way to do this, or should I not include the dog at all? Thank you for everyone's attention.

Totally agree with that! This can avoid us loosing files, especially when LDD has been forced to shut down or errors appear when we save the file!

Recap and updates: Here's an error related to the Fabuland Broom (Part 4322). As shown in this image, I turned the Broom upside down and placed it into a round plate with a hole. However, the first time I did that, I inserted the Broom until it could go no deeper, and it was removed the next time I opened the file. Simply speaking, placing the Broom too deep will cause it to be removed. Next, this Mini Head (Part 3626) has two tiny extra bits of printing on one side. Lately, I've built this thing in LDD which is a Plate 2x2 W 1 Knob below, two Tube W. Knob 1 2/3, Metalized in between, two Plate 2x2 Round on top and an upside-down Stick 6M W/Flange placed through the build with the shorter end on top. I could insert the Stick and save it the first time but it would be removed the next time I opened the file as it was then classified as a brick placed illegally. Therefore just like the Broom placing the Stick too deep will also cause it to be removed.

Here's something useful. When adding new Bricks to LDD, can they not only be added to LDD Extended but the Regular Mode of LDD in the correct colour(s) as well? We can then search for and use these new Bricks much easier. Here's an example of a "missing" Brick: In the Regular Mode of LDD, I could only find the Eagle Wing Right (Part 11777), but not the Eagle Wing Left (Part 11778). Instead I found the Left Wing only existing in LDD Extended.