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Srbandrews

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Everything posted by Srbandrews

  1. Srbandrews
    Of course; I'll take some pics when I get un tomorrow evening.
  2. Srbandrews
    The pf motor pivots on its built-in peg and the trailing wheel is fixed to the chassis. It would grind on the corners if it were fixed.
  3. Srbandrews
    A good choice. My 'King' was my first engine too. It's far from perfect but, even being slightly under scale, I had no trouble fitting all of the PF components into the tender without compromising the shape too badly: I'm currently working on a project to shove all of the PF stuff into the smallest british-style steam shunter that I can, but yeah, unless you have a big tender or a comparativley boxy shape it's tough to squeeze stuff in.
  4. Srbandrews
    I got started very recently with the Lone Ranger Constitution set. I'm not very 'advanced' but I felt it was a good starting point and I've since gone on to build stuff I'm surprised and pleased with. It doesn't have power functions, but it comes with loads of wheels and couplers and some nice dark green curved pieces which are good for engine building.
  5. Srbandrews
    Sir
  6. Srbandrews
    Now this probably is going too far, especially since I don't really build for accuracy, but model railway miniatures are not always themselves perfect representations. On the prototype, the 'lump' over the boiler is incredibly slight, certainly I would say far finer than lego resolution. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cc/Brithdir_ex-GW_'5700'_0-6-0PT_working_for_the_National_Coal_Board_geograph-2571899-by-Ben-Brooksbank.jpg The raised area over the firebox is much more pronounced but, for that, it's either go up a whole plate, which would be too much, or start fiddling around with brackets to get a half-plate height difference, and that would probably end up a bit fragile. Your hose hand rail looks pretty good. I've never even considered trying to recreate the rail going around the smokebox door. Do you know if what you've done in LDD can be pulled off in reality?
  7. Srbandrews
    That's a really great design with amazing detail, Scotnick. I think your boiler length is definitely closer to the original. Wheel size is a bit of a funny thing here because the lego large drivers are pretty much spot on for size, but you can't get anything like the overlap through the plate that the original has, so you have to raise it up. I see from your other MOCs that you have built a lot of Railway Stories engines so I assume you based yours on Duck. One thing I learned from looking at images to build mine was that there's a difference between the way Duck is most often depicted and the original 5700s: apart from at the smokebox, the 5700 boiler is flat at the top, level with the panniers whereas Duck is arched like your MOC.
  8. Srbandrews
    Your BR Pannier is really nice, Kumata. I see what you mean about the chimney: perfect shape, but while alone it wouldn't look too short, it comes out shorter than the dome. I see also that you went for a 12 stud long boiler, so I must not be the only one who just thinks Collett should have made his prototype slightly shorter ^_^ Added a completely fictitious cab interior this morning using some odd spares. Doesn't stand up to srutiny, but it looks good just glimpsed from the outside. LT 5700 Pannier Cab Interior by Srbandrews, on Flickr
  9. Srbandrews
    Occasionally you do see blue tank engines that look nothing like Thomas done up with a face for family days.
  10. Srbandrews
    You're quite right. It's mainly down to the boiler being a little short and a little too deep, as well at the large drivers meaining it rides slightly higher than ideally it should. Like I said above, I went up to 7-wide-in-places with this but was keen to keep the length proportional to my mostly 6-wide larger locomotive. I never planned to make it look 'cartoony' but I quite like that about it now. Thanks Kumata, and yes you're absolutely right. I only built it like that initially as a kind of stopgap, and somehow I forgot it wasn't done. Need to get some dark red panels. Thanks Zephyr, I had no idea that old version of the pin connector existed. That would look much better, although I'm also on the lookout for a black palm tree segment that somebody else said would be the best piece for the chimney. I will do my best to get both to try out.
  11. Srbandrews
    I've considered them, but they're a bit pricey and that's before adding on the shipping from the USA. I might think about them again when I have a few more locos that might benefit from them, but then I'm really not especially keen on the idea of using custom parts.
  12. Srbandrews
    Amazing MOC. You've captured it really well and it just looks fantastic. But... there are loads of pictures. Anyway, it looks like the wagon is 6-wide because it uses the 1x6 wagon end part and the crane base is fractionally wider there the bars stick out at the sides.
  13. Srbandrews
    It's worth noting that there are very occasionally 'train' sets that are part of neither line, for instance there was an ok train released with the Toy Story line (not really my thing, but some people liked it, and it had rare red wheels), and there was also the Lone Ranger Constitution Train, which was actually my introduction into Lego trains. I didn't even watch the Lone Ranger movie, but I thought that set was pretty ace. The Constitution was discontinued last year but can still be picked up for a decent price from bricklink or ebay.
  14. Srbandrews
    Actually, that gives me some comfort. I don't know why I might feel my unpowered locos need validation on this point, but there it is. There are certain advantages to having an unpowered engine besides not having to find the space: for instance, I don't have much of a track and if I want to 'enjoy' a loco, it's usually by popping it on my coffee table and just looking at it now and then when I'm working, reading or watching television and occasionally maybe sort of running it back and forth across the table like a big kid. It's a bit frustrating that you can't run a powered loco 'unplugged' like that without fear of damaging the motor.
  15. Srbandrews
    Very nice work; certainly one of the better Thomases that I've seen. You almost certainly know what you're doing better than I do, but I was just wondering whether there was a reason that your tank 'overhang' is so comparatively longand, as a result, your smokebox somewhat short? EDIT: I've had a look at your flickr and pretty much all of your locos really appeal to me. I notice that you have done mostly small locos and they all seem to be unpowered. I'm currently working on a design for a small tank engine with power functions but I'm struggling and having to make compromises with the shape. You mention that you're planning a layout; do you plan on incorporating powered engines into that or will you it just be a stationary display (or would you have powered trucks instead?)
  16. Srbandrews
    Absolutely love this engine! I really like this shape of ST loco and even though it shouldn't be so difficult to reproduce, I've seen relatively few lego renditions that really capture the right shape and proportions. Great work.
  17. Srbandrews
    Thanks guys. Side rods-wise, I know these aren't ideal, but I prefer them to building them out of multiple thin rods overlapping. Every time I try building rods out of axles and connectors, like I see lots of people doing, they always end up fractionally shorter than they should be and jam the wheels. Is the trick to just pull the axles out of the connectors a little bit?
  18. Srbandrews
    Some improvements: Rebuilt the buffers and buffer beams, replaced the dome and made it taller, added more gold rails and a lamtern: Quite happy with how it's looking.
  19. Srbandrews
    While I do think that's a really nice engine, it uses too many custom and modified parts for me. I mean using custom wheels is one thing, but cutting up baseplates... T__T
  20. Srbandrews
    Some really great uses of space here. Chromeknight, some of those shunters are fantastic. That 'Tiny PF Shunter' is very cleverly done. I really like this one I found on youtube too: I suppose it's to be expected that diesels are less complicated than steam. I love Class 08s and would like to add one to my collection at some stage, but I think I'd like to do a self-contained steam shunter first. Here is one concept I've been working on, based on a Manning-Wardle style saddle tank: It's really not easy squeezing everything in and preserving some kind of shape. Just focusing on shape and size and not detail at the moment.
  21. Srbandrews
    Hi all, Apologies if something like this has been done already, but I couldn't find anything quite like it. I thought it might be a good idea to start a thread to share ideas about the best ways of squeezing Power Functions into small spaces. I occasionaly come across images where I think 'oh, that's a good way of fitting that in' but usually I've stumbled across it by chance and the reference is never there when I need it. So if you have any images of your own MOCs, or somebody elses (try to give credit of course), share them here. As a start, I found this video by a youtube user names Zanthera quite useful in the past, but tenders can make things a lot easier for steam loco builders: Anyone know of any really clever tank engines or small shunters?
  22. Srbandrews
    Thanks very much for the comments everyone. You're right about the BBB medium wheels being a better size, but I have a nagging feeling in my head telling me only to use original Lego elements. I can't really explain it but I'm going to follow it anyway. Jtlan, I can see that your method for building a boiler plate is probably the best way to ho here and I will definitely work on integrating that design in this engine. It may take a couple of iterations before I get there, but I think lowering the overall height by 1 plate would be worth it. I have been looking out for one of those palm tree pieces in black but none of the sellers I've ordered from so far have had them. Snowvictim, while I can certainly see the allure of powered locos, I made the decision from the outset not to try to power this one. It just wouldn't be possible to fit a full set of PF components in here, and the fact is I only have the oval of track that came the Constitution so I wouldn't get much payoff for all the effort and expense. And Gareth. I totallu agree with you about limiting the extent of sticker use. While I really admire the amazing details of what some modellers have managed to achieve, it's not a route I would want to go down - I'm mainly interested in custom logos and lettering. I'd just like to get the gold London Transport lettering on the 1x8 tile under the hand rail and perhaps an Lxx number on the cab. I'd like a couple for my King too.
  23. Srbandrews
    Thanks Gareth! I think your designs are ace so I'm very grateful for your feedback. I notice your Class 43 has some nice custom decals. How did you do them / where did you get them printed?
  24. Srbandrews
    After beginning my Lego train building career with a large engine, I had a real yearning to create a smaller engine. I originally had in mind to either build something LMS because I really like the dark red colour elements or another GWR loco (just because their the best). I hadn't until recently seen the GWR 5700 series in the maroon livery they wore after being bought by London Transport in the 50s. As soon as I saw them I thought it was pretty inevitable that I was going to try to make one from Lego sooner rather than later: I had a pop at building in 7 wide, which seems to be what everyone suggests for british loading gauges and it seems to have worked out ok, although the boiler plate is actually 6 wide plus door rails. You'll notice that the boiler is a little on the short and fat side; that's because I wanted to keep it as in-scale as possible with my King class. I'm quite happy with how the boiler looks anyway. This is where I'm at after two bricklink orders. I don't use LDD so I just try to work out in my head and on paper what I'm going to need and then see where that gets me. The parts that I know I need to change are: Make the dome in dark red (I couldn't get the parts I needed from either seller from my first orders) Improve the buffer bars and add some kind of coupling. Squeeze in a little more detail. If anyone has any specific suggestions for how it could be improved, I'd be more than happy to hear them. I would really like to add a London Transport decal to the side of the boiler. Does anyone know the best way to go about getting clear vinyl stickers printed? Thanks.
  25. Srbandrews
    Finallyrebuilt in dark red. Looks much better I think.
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