splatman

What would it take? Complete loss of my collection (be it via fire, theft, or a subterranean monster sick of eating rocks, and lives in a cave that happens to be directly under my LEGO Room). Any surviving pieces will most likely be sold on Bricklink or given away. Any money gained will go toward my woodworking hobby, and will focus more on that.

Was that not Lego's go-to excuse to get people to stop asking them to produce stuff? At least, that's the impression I have got over the years. I did not think of BBB wheels. After all, this discussion is about track, so that's why.

And because of ME Models, Lego will be probably less likely to make R104 track now. Someone at Lego probably already said, "Let ME Models make the longer radii track". I'm not saying this is so. This is just a guess.

I did not know it was possible to pledge any money w/o paying any. Why?

I disagree on the 8x8, 8x16, 4x16, 12x12, and 10x20 bricks. They're great for floors (in multistory buildings) and bridges. The 2 large lattice panels just look poorly designed. The solid base and corner notches could have been omitted. A row of bricks, plates, or tiles on top, would suffice in linking them together, and, in the case of tiles, hide the studs. Even then, they would probably still be BUPs*, if not easily worked into a MOC. The rest? What were they ______? I'll let you fill in the blank. *Big Ugly Piece(s).

Pieces I have found over the years, that I can recall now: Early 80s: 1 white 2x4 brick, dirty, found under the driver's seat of a used car my Dad bought minutes before. IIRC, my collection at that time was all of 1 set. Late 80s: None, at least that I can recall. Early 90s: 1 red 3x2 slope, on the street in front of my house, looked like it had been run over. Mid 90s: many, including several 2xN bricks, a yellow 1x2 with Classic Space logo, 2 blue 1x12 Technic bricks, most of them stuck together in a wall form, all in the back of an abandoned Fond Off Road Dead pickup in the woods. About a year later, I sifted thru the rubbish in the back of said truck, and found a yellow 1x6 brick, and 1 (or was that 2 or 3?) yellow 3x1 inverted slope. Nothing else of value. Another year or so later, I found a blue 2x2 plate buried in the forest floor litter. Later mid 90s: Found a yellow 1x2 tile w/ steering wheel in front of a Starbucks. Along a power line road south of my place, there used to be a load of illegal dumping going on, and I would look thru the trash, mainly for metal that I could sell as scrap, and occasionally found a few LEGO pieces, including a few bricks in a box of trash that smelled of solvent (meth lab trash?), the bricks lost the smell in a few weeks, a couch with the usual cache of bricks, and a dozen or more DUPLO blocks, which I cleaned up and gave to a niece. Early 00s: A few bricks by a road up north, some had "runned over by a big fat car" damage. October '04: A blue DUPLO 2x4 brick along Sunset Boulevard in LA, CA. Mid '00s: A red DUPLO baseplate with a hole in it, along said power line road. Spring '07: A red Pat Pend 2x4 brick in a back yard on Mercer Island, while working for the Ornamental Tree Guy. For some (sinful?) reason, it never occurred to me to ask the property owner about the brick's ownership. The property could have changed hands a dozen times since the brick was lost, but I would have disregarded that possibility as a valid excuse anyway. Between then and now: None. Zilch. Zer0. Goose Egg.

TLG could add, but not change, any feature of the minifig. E.g., have articulated arms, like the Skellies, but at the same time, also keep making the classic figs. Even include both in the same set, to show everyone the classic fig is here to stay. better: include both classic and articulated arms in sets; let the builder choose. The torso would remain unchanged. Another part of the fig that has potential, is the head stud. Make the bottom of it thinner, giving it a sort of a tow-ball shape, so the head can tilt in any direction. press the head all the way down, per usual, and the difference is hidden. But leave the head raised a mm or so, and give the fig a boombox, and he can head-bang to his fave tunes! TLG could also employ a stronger plastic for those parts that need it, but of course, there's the whole challenge of making sure it looks and performs the same, or close enough to not be obvious.

Most of mine are used for storing bricks. Some are used for storing screws and other hardware.

There's an Instructable on the subject.

Mention of the floor piano here got me recalling (unrelated) stair piano.

Bluish gray is to gray as red is to yellow. Adds more color.

Rock Raiders are cool. Can we please have Trans-Neon Green window panes? Who would not want to build a M:Tron house, or a Blacktron II skyscraper, or an Atlantis glass tunnel? LEGO Bricks are just as much for grownups as they are for kids. It's OK for your LEGO hobby to cross paths with your other hobbies. A "stained glass" window inside your house, built of trans-colored bricks. Cut pieces of wood to LEGO dimensions, and use them in your MOCs. Jigs and fixtures. "Always use the right toy for the job".

As cool as that would be, it would probably be too expensive. If the cars were also available separately, then the buyer could buy as many cars as he/she can afford, w/o having to buy more than train set and ending up with more than one loco.

I really doubt tape = modding bricks. Peel off the tape, and the bricks are the same as before. Using tape is really the same as including paper, cardboard, non-LEGO stickers, etc. in a MOC.

An issue I have encountered here, concerns topics you have viewed before, regardless if you have posted to them. When I click of the 1x1 brick, it goes to the first post since I last viewed the topic. Except after a while (6 months? 1 year?), it's as if I never viewed that topic before. What's wrong? what do I do about it? Besides visiting every thread I have visited before, every 2 months?

ME Models should be able to take on Monorail as soon as they are done setting up production for their train tracks.

That's no moon. That's a mouse! THE DEATH MOUSE!

I wonder what will Mickey Mouse buy next? Woodworking tool manufacturers? Then every kid who wishes to get into woodworking, especially those who wish to get away from the Mouse, will find themselves mouse-trapped. Like this.

Last time I read, that light had been turned off, the light bulb has been sold at auction, and the wiring has been sold as scrap. Disneybricks... OK, we are getting !

Are they tall enough to completely fill stud notches in those pieces that have them? Hey LEGO Historian, Are you reading this? I've always wondered why stud notches, what you call "missing notches of plastic", are always taller than any LEGO stud I've seen. Did LEGO at any point, make bricks with taller studs, and the notches are always made taller to maintain backwards compatibility?

On building a storage system: If you have some power tools and a truckload of determination, you can follow in .

I have secured baseplates to a wall with thumbtacks. The tack's shafts are right up to the edge of the baseplate, 1/2 of the tack's head is on the plate, between 2 studs. Use as many tacks as needed, to make sure the plate stays put.

Read the thread title, and this comes to mind: ME Models should soon have the solution for the curve negotiation problem. Long locos are perfect for pulling long trains for the long haul.

Another contender would be Belleville. One of my nieces had a bunch of sets, and they are like one-way streets. It seems like the sets are intentionally designed to not be able to be built into anything other than what was pictured on the box. Where's the Spirit Of LEGO in that!? LEGO Belleville: It's the same toy every day!

I've had a similar idea, only involving a Dremel type tool, not a drill press, and shaving a tiny bit off the front and back, such that they will slip over the stud, but leave the sides as they are. That way, the front will not be under any kind of bending load, but pure tension (no greater stress at the surface, which will start a crack), while the sides will still firmly grip a stud. That, of course, is an awfully huge load of Dremelling. May be fine if you only have few cheese slopes. You probably have the better idea. Build a jig to hold the slopes on the drill press table, with a lift lever, set the depth stop on the DP, then drop slope in jig, drill, press lever to remove slope from jig, rinse and repeat.