splatman

Pictures, please.

Put the Technic balls you have, on strings. Then the hard part: Reverse gravity. Someone made a clown holding a trio of balloons using this method (could not find it). How well that works, is a whole 'nother matter.

Nevermind the non-challenge of LEGOing this; I just want to see it populated likewise with minifigs, when you do build this train out of LEGO bricks.

Oh look! (in the upper right, in the frame) You gave it a Splat!

Replying to the first post of the thread: May be way late, but better late than never, right? Riiight. A shed is usually not the best of places to store most any household items, due to its roller coaster temperature and humidity. These suggestions my seem pricey, but here goes: Insulate the shed. That will mellow out the extremes. If you can also afford to panel or drywall the walls and ceiling, that would be even better. Before insulating, ask yourself if you wish to add any electric or plumbing. Easiest to do that before insulating. Add at least one power receptacle, so you can plug in a space heater or other climate-control device. If you cannot run a power line from your house or meter box, attach a power cord to the shed, then run an extension cord when power is needed, plugging in the shed like an appliance. Another way to keep it cool during the summer, is to paint it white or a very light color. Does it need/will it soon need a new roof? Roof it with white/light-colored roofing material. Keeping sets inside plastic containers will help, though, there's the risk of condensation inside the containers when temps drop. Adding a few silica gel packets or other means of moisture control will solve that. If you want to make sure your containers are airtight, use caulk. Lay a bead of caulk on the rim of the container before putting the lid on, then press the lid on tight. Stacking another container on top will help here. You can get caulk that can be easily removed. Seal And Peel by Dap is just such a product. Or you could take out all MISB sets, boxes, paper items, cloth items, stickers, stickered pieces, and electric parts, and keep those in your house. Give it a Splat!

Ask your customer, "Are you sure you returned the same motor?"

The sound system should probably not have anything sitting on it. If you must use the space above it, raise the box a few inches with tuna cans, or similarly small items, on each corner. Then both your sound system, and and the box atop it, will not get as hot.

Can 1x8 sleepers be used on the R56, and be evenly spaced?

Plastic-on-plastic is not the issue; dust is. Dust settles in the compartments and on their contents, creating a situation similar to getting grains of sand under your eyelids. Airtight containers would limit this.

Now, you just have to add a tunnel down the street, and have a yellow Beetle with a tall stack of boxes and a sofa on the roof, about to go through said tunnel (Whoa!).

Build partitions inside using any size bricks, running side-to-side. Basically, dividing it into 3 or 4 "rooms". When packing it, wrap some heavy-duty rubber bands around it. Or wrap it with 2 layers paper or plastic, then wrap several loops of tape around it. Then slip sticks in between the paper/plastic layers to put tension on the tape. Yes, I know, a rubber-banded, wrapped and taped 5th wheel camper being towed cross-country is going to look silly :D At least, it'll get to Point B in one piece.

I knew it was a joke. This discussion is probably best imagined happening in Donald Duck's voice. Or in your fave comedian's voice. For the same reason, we'll never see TARDIS-shaped PaB cups. Can you imangine how many bricks can you put in one of those!?

So, you're gonna take a helium or hydrogen balloon to the PaB wall? It may be hard getting the He or H into the cup, even holding the cup upside down, and letting the He/H empty into the cup. It'll be easier to just tie the balloon to the cup. Lighter-than-air gasses, defying gravity, or anything else you come up with, all sounds like ways to put the lift in shoplifting. I would not do it. Besides, the store staff will wonder what's up when they hear customers sounding like Donald Duck.

They're made in little sections in all the countries listed, except Demark, then all the sections are sent to Denmark, where they are welded together by tiny Danish elves. :D Those elves - They can make a weld invisible! What's why you cannot see any seams. But their technology does not work very well for things other than baseplates. That's why other things that are welded together, show seams. Want more of my silly theories? The "scream tubes" on the California Screamin' roller coaster, soak up the riders' screams, which are then used to power the ride, a-la Monsters Inc. At Google Maps, walking directions to Mordor are not available, because one does not simply walk into Mordor. OK, that's all 4 now.

Put something inside the brick before inserting the cheeses. Wads of paper came to mind, but they'll get wedged inside. Unpopped popcorn kernels, washers (around the tubes), or BBs may be woth a try. Or levers (w/o the bases) laid inside the brick, for a strictly LEGO solution. I did not try any of these, so I don't know if they will even work.

Someone will have to out there and cheer things up a little.

Have an epic BBQ for your minifigs! :D

Most boxes get flattened and saved for the cardboard. From time to time, I have a project that calls for cardboard. I'll split them along the seam and unfold and use for things like custom shipping boxes, protecting surfaces when painting, etc., templates, and whatever else I may need a piece of cardboard for. The rest go in the recycle bin.

Grade-separated crossovers would solve that. The center of the spiral would have to be larger, to accommodate the ramp. Including sloping up the last 1/2-spiral + the turn to the crossover would be very steep for a train. Maybe a lift-chain, like a roller coaster, would help here. Or just leave enough space (SPACE!) inside the spirals for a ramp, and let the layout eat more floor. Or make the spirals rectangular (instead of square), which would leave more space (SPACE!) in the center w/o excessively oversizing the spiral. The center of such a spiral would be shaped like a paperclip.

These may help: http://www.ehow.com/how_4500086_kill-mold-vinegar.html http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-and-effective-sanitizer/ Then let dry. HTH

Reminds me of this WikipediA article.

Wait a few days, or weeks, or even a month, then test with unaffected bricks. They might get their clutch strength back while resting. The opposite of how clothes get wrinkled when left in a heap. Failing that, IDK. I'm not shure burying them is the answer.

I live in Washington state, USA. I've read Safari can get around this, because of the server-hopping way it accesses the web. Can anyone confirm? I don't have Safari on my system, and I'm not sure if it's available for my OS (Ubuntu 10.04)

Video is blocked due to SME and EMI content. What the? Cispa/Acta nonsense?

Which gives the dozer something to doze. Yuck!