djm

By this do you mean have a part being able to "snap" into the right place on another part? If so, part snapping was introduced in a recent version but it is disabled by default (see http://www.melkert.n...DCad/faq#faq_ps). If I have misunderstood what you meant by the quick align feature, please ignore this post. Regards, David

If you are operating LDCAD in TrackBall mode (TBL), you may find it a lot easier to use Spin mode (SPN) instead. Using "Spin" limits the rotational movement and may be easier for you if using a mouse. Most of the time I use LDCAD in "Spin" rather than "TrackBall" mode. To see which mode you are operating in, move the mouse to the bottom left corner of the building window, into the X-Y-Z axis indicator area. The area will expand and show you something like one of the two following pictures. The first shows LDCAD operating in "TrackBall" mode (the circled red bit). If you click TBL, it will switch to "Spin" mode. The second shows LDCAD operating in "Spin" mode. If you click "SPN", it will switch to TrackBall mode. For building instructions, I use LPub or LPub3D. These tools can be downloaded for free. Visit http://ldraw.org/ for more information. For parts lists, I use BrickStock, which can (a) import a model created in LDCAD (or any of the other LDraw related editing tools) and (b) give me hooks into BrickLink so I get a feel for how much the parts might cost. If you want part lists shown within the instructions, both LPub and LPub3D can do that. Regards, David

If Lego Digital Designer (LDD in KamalMYafi's post) isn't suitable, I would recommend that you look at using LDCAD (http://www.melkert.net/LDCad) rather than MLCAD. It is significantly easier to build digital models with LDCAD than MLCAD. Not only can you build within the 3D perspective in LDCAD but it also has the ability to do part "snapping", which simplifies the building process. LDCAD has many other capabilities, too numerous to mention here.I started modelling using MLCAD but switched to LDCAD and would not go back. Regards, David

I think that the half bushings on top might hit the underside of the Technic 2x4 plates. Space is tight underneath the Tecnic plates and I do wonder if the unreliability of this module was one reason why it didn't appear in any subsequent Akiyuki videos. Correct, the 5 and 6 axles need to be switched. Regards, David

Correct. My mistake. Correct, my mistake. Possibly. l can't double check my actual build at the moment as I'm not at home. Nice, I like it. The gearing isn't visible in the original video so mine was pure guess work. I like the reduction in speed from your gearing suggestion. Regards, David

Two additions; <!-- Slope Brick 45 3 x 1 Inverted Double 2341.dat --> <Brick ldraw="2341.dat" lego="18759" /> <!-- Slope Brick Curved 4 x 1 61678.dat --> <Brick ldraw="61678.dat" lego="11153" />

Someone please let me know if I'm doing this correctly or not by posting here. Power Functions Large Motor Power Functions Servo Motor Power Function AAA Battery Box <!-- Electric Power Functions Large Motor 99499 18 --> <Brick ldraw="99499.dat" lego="10089" /> <Transformation ldraw="99499.dat" tx="1.2" ty="-0.8" tz="-0.4" ax="0" ay="1" az="0" angle="1.570796"/> <!-- Electric Power Functions Servo Motor 99498 18 --> <Brick ldraw="99498.dat" lego="10130" /> <Transformation ldraw="99498.dat" tx="1.2" ty="0" tz="-3.6" ax="0" ay="1" az="0" angle="1.570796"/> <!-- Electric Power Functions AAA Battery Box [72 Bottom] (Needs Work) 64228 18 --> <Transformation ldraw="64228.dat" tx="-2.8" ty="-3.835" tz="1.2" ax="0" ay="0" az="0" angle="0"/> Regards, David

20 tooth double bevel appears to need the following addition: <!-- Technic Gear 20 Tooth Double Bevel 32269.dat 17 --> <Brick ldraw="32269.dat" lego="18575" />

Yes, sorry. I'm an idiot. Corrected the updated post. David

Refined ZigZag Stairs (version 1) I had a chance to run the ZigZag Stairs (version 1) for a period of time over the weekend. I refined the draft build as a result. The most significant changes were; to amend the connections between the axles. As originally drafted, the axles tended to pop out of the 2L 0.5 liftarms reposition the longitudinal centre axle offset by 180 degrees. If provides for better clearance for the left hand longitudinal axle rework the motor positioning. It is now parallel with the module as opposed to perpendicular to it. After further studying Akikuyi's video, the motor orientation now aligns to that in the original. Per Owen's suggestion, moreover this provided the opportunity to decrease the rotational speed using gears. The build instructions and Ldraw file are available for download. Regards, David Edit: Stairs, not Lift.

I think that it's tracking okay to achieve the target. It's not yet 1/3 of the way through the time (7 days out of 30) and it's passed 1/3 of the funding target. If it gets close to making the target, you may well see a spike as more people commit to the project since it will have greater surety of making the goal. If the project fails to reached the target amount, nobody's pledges will be charged against their credit cards. Regards, David

I think your dog added their MegaBlocks extension to the module!

For those who are interested, a draft of the build instructions of the Zigzag Stairs is available as a PDF on bricksafe .The LDraw file is also available for download. A parts list for the draft build is available on Rebrickable (where you are able to "like" the MOC, should you wish to). My observations about the module; it is a straight forward build, requiring no timing adjustments. It simply works when building, manually test the smoothness of the vertical axle movement as soon as you have placed the Technic plates sub-assembly on the frame. Ensure the thin liftarms hit neither the axles beneath it or the Technic Plates above. Adjust the vertical position of the thin liftarms as required. the motor connection is a total unknown. I'm not aware of any images of the left hand side of the original module. I built this module with no gears and the motor connected directly to one of the axles. I powered it with a LEGO rechargeable battery box and on a low speed setting. You should be able to achieve something similar if using the train controller. Don't run the motor too fast as the balls jump all over the place. Regards, David [Edit: repointed image and files to draft version)

Here's the video of the (rainbow) build Akiyuki's Zigzag Stairs GBC (version 1). Draft Ldraw file/PDF will be posted once I build it digitally. Regards, David

I started with the older version simply as I liked the challenge to see if I could build it. Primarily an intellectual exercise. With the slightly better view of the older one being available, it did strike me as being an easier build task to try and accomplish. It may stimulate someone else to try to reverse engineer version 2. Version 1 also has a compact footprint and I can see potential for it being used as a gap filler for when our LUG has has GBC displays. Regards, David

DrJB, was you had in mind? If so, I think that one might use a mechanism similar to the Basket Shooter to achieve the vertical motion. This module build is for the GBC in this video: which does not appear to be using gears from what I can make out. Regards, David

After a few adjustments from trial and error, here is a compound image showing the current state of the prototype of the lifting mechanism for version 1 of the Zigzag Stairs. As with the earlier images, the green parts are simply being used to denote the parts used to achieve the 90 degree offset. I'll continue to build this physically before modelling it digitally. In the meanwhile, the LDraw file for the prototype is available for downloading. I'm aware that the original model does not have the tiles on top of the Technic plates. I'm presently modelling in this fashion as the space available underneath the Technic plates is very tight. Using tiles on top rather than plates underneath the Technic plates seems to alleviate the space constraint a little. This may be amended if the build above the prototype frame won't work with the tiles in place. Regards, David

Here's a video of the first draft build of the underlying step mechanism. It feels like I'm heading in the right direction. Excuse the shaky cam - I was holding my phone in one hand while turning the crank with the other. Regards, David

After a bit more thinking, this: has a more promising feel to it. Rather than trying to have 4 connecting rods plus a rod with a 90 degree offset, it has just 2 connecting rows plus a rod with a 90 degree offset. The raising and lowering of a pair of stairs can probably be achieved using something along the assembly on the left hand side. I still need to explore this a bit further but it feels more closely aligned with the build in the video. Regards, David

One version at a time

Zigzag Stairs, version 1 - a puzzle I thought I'd have a go at reverse engineering version 1 of the Zigzag Stairs. I thought it looked small and wouldn't be that hard to work out. When reverse engineering, I tend to model things digitally, working my way through a model bit by bit and then build the physical model. While I have got some way through the digital build of the superstructure and the steps, I decided it would make more sense to physically build the movement mechanism and then digitally model it. The reference material is sparse, to my knowledge consisting of only one . This has proven slightly problematic as there are insufficient views within the video to be able to determine the actual build.Notes about the images below; the images show "bare bones", sufficient to illustrate the build the parts have been coloured different colours to try to make it easier to understand. The 1x2 thin liftarm is blue, the 1x3 thin liftarm is black, the 3x3 thin liftarm is brown, the "dead-point" eliminating connecting rod is green My first attempt (shown below) consisted of 4 axles running within the frame. The length of the liftarms that were used and the half bush was based on what I could make out from the video. The first attempt is illustrated below. It does not work. When the arms are at the mid-point, they reach the "dead-point" and the "uncranked" end reverses direction. Doing a little bit of reading, I determined that I could resolve the problem by inserting a 90 degree offset into play and this would eliminate the issue with the "dead-point". The second attempt (show below) works nicely. However, the Zigzag Stairs model requires adjacent steps to be travelling in opposite directions. This build attempt has the outside rods moving in time with each other and the inside rods moving in time with each other. What is desired is that the first and third rods are in time and the second and fourth rods are in time. My third attempt (shown below) remedies the incorrect rod pairing. Now the first and third rods move in time and the second and fourth rods move in time. However, this build cannot be achieved without breaking the bounds of Akiyuki's model. Firstly the 3x3 thin technic lift arm comes into contact with the 1 x 10 plate on the end, so the entire mechanism has to be moved back one hole in the Technic bricks. Secondly, the vertical "space" used by the mechanism when rotating is too large. To allow sufficient vertical space for the mechanism to fully rotate, requires an additional row of bricks under the Technic blocks. I've been unsuccessful with either coming up with a suitable resolution or finding a previous example of a solution online. So I thought I would post this message in case someone either has an existing solution that can be applied to the problem or can work out an appropriate mechanism. If there are of any use to you, the LDraw files for three build attempts are available; build attempt 1 build attempt 2 build attempt 3 I'd welcome it if you have a solution and are able to post it here. I know that the second and third build attempt diverge from Akiyuki's solution e.g. there is no room for the half bush visible in the video. At this stage I'm simply looking for an applicable solution and will consider how to align it with Akiyuki's build subsequently. Regards, David

I posted a comment to Akiyuki's new web site with a link to the first page of this topic. In his reply, he confirmed that he knows about about this project. Kudos to Blakbird.

I wondered that too, as the cup seen in the video isn't available in yellow so it appears to be something else. I can't see anything obvious in the BrickLink catalog. I've posted a question as a comment on the video in youtube. Hopefully there will be a reply. Regards, David

Two thoughts about this; I found that the bricks/plates on the top of the triggers can separate a little over time. I found this out a couple of times during my test building. It would effect the trigger's aim/distance. The separation isn't necessarily visible unless you remove the "lower ramp". The resolution is to squeeze the bricks/plates together again. if the up/down control (as opposed to the left/right control) is wound too far "up" it prevents the cup from going down as far as required, flicking the ball backwards rather than forwards.. The resolution is to alter the up/down controller a little in the down direction. Neither may be applicable for your build. If it is correct to assume that Philo provided the LDraw work for the NBA backboard part, then kudos to him. Otherwise, kudos to whomever did do the work. Needless to say, Blakbird improved the quality of the build instructions from the original draft. My thanks go to him. Regards, David

Akiyuki did attach the motor on the left side in the "v1" but I agree with the premise that the designs we produce should not be set in stone. I call the build instructions I produce an "interpretation" of Akiyuki's design. Since the GBCs we build are likely to end up as part of a public display, it seems sensible to me that if they can be made more robust and use a common "interface" (e.g. motor rotating in a common direction), then we should do so. Regards, David