djm

The pin and neck bracket are okay (refer to the picture below which I screenshot from LDD). I probably had DGBDBG-itis when I mocked up the build in Figure 8, so picked the wrong pin colour. "1" below shows the longer pin while "2" shows the shorter pin. Nice illustration with the quick and dirty solution. It's interesting because it gives me food for thought - in the build of the diamond crossing, I'd always thought to make the track separator have similar parts and orientation on both sides. The quick-and-dirty illustration reminds me to not to forget to think outside the box. David

The stress test was successful. The build instructions for version 10 are available for download - please refer to the link near the top of this posting; http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=109841 Regards, David

Context The text within this post is based on an article I originally submitted in September 2014 to RailBricks for consideration to be included in a future issue of RailBricks. In the absence of any RailBricks issue since the article was submitted or recent communication from them, I have elected to post a modified version of the article to this forum. Introduction Figure 1 - Brick built Diamond Train Crossing 13 and 3. Two numbers which are key when building the diamond crossing shown in Figure 1 (the build instructions for which are available for download as a PDF document). Before explaining the numbers further though, a brief explanation of the reason for writing this article. It's not hard to imagine that one of the success factors in LEGO being played with worldwide is the absence of words in their build instructions. Build instructions, such as those for the diamond crossing, are intended to stand on their own without the need for additional commentary. The purpose of this article is to pass on the knowledge gained in the construction of the diamond crossing to other AFOLs. It contains information that is not appropriate to place in building instructions. The desire is to encourage others to experiment further to see what can be achieved in providing alternatives to the standard LEGO PF/IR train track parts. 13 and 3 Explained Figure 2 - Track Cross Section Figure 2 illustrates a cross section of a LEGO standard straight train track, 160 LDraw Units (LDUs) wide, complemented with a couple of extra plates. The image was generated using MLCad [1] and LPub [2]. Each rail has a 20 LDU footprint. The yellow plate was moved from its "correctly aligned" position on the partially obscured stud to its left, 7 LDUs to the right. The right hand side of the plate is touching the left hand side of the top of the rail. Since the rail parts are symmetrical, there are 7 LDUs of "space" on the right hand side of the rail, meaning the rail width at the top is 6 LDUs. Thus aligning a brick to the inside edge of a rail requires an offset of 7 LDUs + 6 LDUs i.e. 13 LDUs. Figure 3 - Solution Concept Figure 3 illustrates the concept of what needs to be built to achieve the same spacing as that between the two rails on a standard LEGO track part. Didier Enjary's advanced building guide [3] is a useful source of information about different techniques to obtain offsets. However, the offsets identified are even numbers, which won't combine to produce the desired offset of 13 LDUs. One of the answers posed to a question about how to achieve a 1 LDU offset [4] identified that there is a LEGO part that provides an odd valued LDU offset. The Minifig, Neck Bracket with Back Stud (42446) [5], as illustrated in Figure 4, produces a desirable odd value offset of 3 LDUs. Figure 4 - LDU Offset Bracket Built from inside to outside Figure 5 - 94 LDUs separation The crossing is built from the inside towards the outside. A fundamental principle was to create the equivalent gauge to a real track piece by obtaining a separation between bricks of 94 LDUs. Figure 3 illustrates where this LDU measurement comes into play. Figure 5 illustrates a combination of pieces from the crossing that achieves the desired spacing. Other brick combinations exist that provide the same separation. Potential for Re-use The diamond crossing is built, fundamentally, as a straight through track with a diagonal track attached to each side using a Technic angled connector. This approach yields a high potential for re-use of the straight through section if building a differently angled crossing, as follows. remove the diagonal tracks (see Figure 6) replace the angled Technic connector (highlighted in Figure 6) with one of a different angle for the hinge connectors' forming the internal diamond, alter their angle appropriately. This will also likely require a rework of the parts which form the diamond as a different length of track will be required for a different angle (see blue highlights in Figure 7). tweak the bricks used where the tracks join to adjust the length where necessary (see red highlights in Figure 7). Figure 6 - Straight Through Track Figure 7 - Adjustments required if angle changed Other Notes The crossing is built by creating a brick separation of 94 LDUs, working from the inside of the track to the outside of the track. At one point during construction, an alternative approach yielded an offset of 13 LDUs when combined with a baseplate, as illustrated in Figure 8. This approach was not explored further but does offer the potential for constructing a crossing on the basis of from the outside to the inside. Readers are encouraged to experiment to see whether a suitable crossing can be built using this approach. There is no guarantee that the approach will yield a usable crossing. Figure 8 - Candidate for an outside to inside build The crossing uses one part that is no longer in production; the "Hinge Plate 1 x 2 with 3 Fingers" [8]. It may be possible to use the "Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Handle on End - Closed Ends" [9] instead. During the design evolution of the crossing, both parts were trialed in different versions. In the end, the decision was made that the profile (see figure 9) of the hinge plate provides a better functional fit than that of the modified plate. Figure 9 - Hinge Plate and Modified Plate Profile The key measurements 13 and 3, identified in this article, may be usable to build straight tracks suitable for use with the curved "narrow" rail track [7]. This has not been explored. Conclusion The primary purpose of this article has been to disseminate the knowledge gained about significant LDU measurements applicable when building a custom PF/IR train track diamond crossing. Armed with these measurements, the AFOL train community may be able to derive further track piece alternatives. References [1] Mike's LEGO CAD http://mlcad.lm-software.com/ [2] LPUB http://sourceforge.net/projects/lpub4/ [3] The Unofficial LEGO Advanced Building Techniques Guide. 2007, Didier Enjary. http://photos.freelu...B/SBv1.pdf.html [4] How to make a 1 LDU offset http://bricks.stacke...-a-1-ldu-offset [5] Catalog: Parts: Minifig, Body Wear: 42446 http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=42446 [6] Catalog: Parts: Technic, Plate: 4262 http://www.bricklink...Item.asp?P=4262 [7] Catalog: Parts: Train, Track: 85976 http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=85976 [8] Catalog: Parts: Hinge: 4275 http://www.bricklink...Item.asp?P=4275 [9] Catalog: Parts: Plate, Modified: 60478 http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=60478

It's grey, has four limbs (well arms) and the duration is approaching the gestation duration of an elephant ... it's version 10! This is a "teaser" photo of the actual build of the most recent version of the brick built diamond crossing. A summary of the main differences between this version and the most recently available version (which was version 7 in the RailBrick's end-of-year competition) are; the Technic connectors have been moved down to the lower row the approach to connecting it to the LEGO rails has been revised the centre sections (where the lattice fences are) have been lowered by 1 plate the previously "dangly" left hand side of the "diamond" arm (as opposed to the "straight" arm) is now fixed the cross-rail middle diamond's angle is achieved without using a Technic connector I aim to remove an unnecessary vestige from version 9 and then "stress" test this in the next few days. If all goes well, I'll put together some build instructions and make them available. And then I'm done. Really. Time to move onto something else (maybe Akiyuki's Ball Factory?)

FYI, similar designs have been posted previously on the EuroBricks forum. Refer to http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=91240 http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=81533 http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=97209 The last one is one that I came up with. It more closely matches the LEGO train gauge which helps to eliminate the traction problem you refer to. There is a PDF of the build instructions available here. There's also a Diamond Crossing too (shameless plus). Refer to here. The most recent version on that thread for the diamond crossing is version 7. There's a version 8 (which is a small change from version 7) the build instructions for which which may see the light of day in a future issue of RailBricks. Regards, David

You are not alone at the bottom. I'm here with you too! David.

Well if you have the appropriate parts, they can be combined to provide the appropriate LEGO gauge ... alternate_build by djm_mgst, on Flickr

Lego Fairground Mixer @ ToyPlanet for NZ$149.99. Refer to http://www.toyplanet.co.nz/Lego-Creator-Expert-Fairground-Mixer-p-Lego-c-10244.html

It's 24 LDU's high, so that's 0.4mm * 24 LDUs = 9.6 mm. Just the rail (i.e. excluding the sleeper) is 16 LDUs, so the rail is 6.4 mm high. Regards, David

I think he's probably being truthful with his answers; (a) there wasn't a Market Street list in the $400 collection and (b) if you search expired listings for "lego cafe corner" or "lego market street", you will see two prior listings by him. Interestingly enough, it looks like the TradeMe market isn't prepared to pay an excessive price. The prior Cafe Corner has a highest bid of $475 and a reserve of $750. Almost simultaneous posts! Neither of the Cafe Corner nor Green Grocer listings contain the instructions or boxes. At the start of each listing, it states "Box and manuals are missing". It annoys me that it seems to be an accepted practice to oversell things by including images of stuff that is not actually part of the item for sale. Nonetheless, I accept they are likely to be different sets to the "bonanza" purchase made last Friday night.

Ka-ching! http://www.trademe.c...n-813848754.htm Ka-ching two! http://www.trademe.c...n-813858703.htm Love the bit that goes "I have this set a long time ago". Err, right. so 6 days is a long time is it? Very temptimg to pose a question with a link to the original sale and ask if this sale for one from the earlier trade. And the seller has the cheek to include a stock picture of the instructions but then state that it isn't included.

After each version, I keep thinking "that's it, I'm done". I'm beginning to think that something like this is always a "work in progress"!

Here's version 7, the most recent incarnation. train_diamond_crossing_v7 by djm_mgst, on Flickr With the LDD file (attached) I took a slightly different approach to illustrating the "illegal" joins, to allow the crossing to more or less hang together within LDD. The parts that are involved in an "illegal" join have been colour coded to illustrate where they should go (blue with blue, yellow with yellow, etc). The expectation is that the coloured parts would be replaced with the corresponding dark-bluish grey part at build time. [Edit: the 4x red 1x1 plate are better replaced with 2x dark bluish gray 2x1 plates but using the 1x1 plates gets around an LDD illegal join with the 2x1 plate] There will likely be some build instructions for this available at some point via RailBricks. The proof of the pudding is, of course, does it work? So here is a demonstration video. {Edit: Image rendered via MLCAD/LPub/POV-Ray was missing a couple of pieces] diamond_crossing_v7.lxf

Fair comment. There's no doubt in my mind that had I stumbled across those 5 modular buildings with a Buy Now price of $400, I would have been hitting the "Buy Now" button.

I don't think it's unethical as the seller had the option not to put a Buy Me price and simply let the auction run. I'd agree that the buyer got a lucky purchase. I was pointing out the recent purchase technique by the buyer simply so other NZ EB forum readers might stop and think before bidding for these should they surface again from the same Trade Me user. I wonder how we each would have responded if someone had said to us "I've got these LEGO modular buildings that I want to sell. Will you give me 400 bucks for them?"? David

The buyer did something similar with the creator Ferris wheel in the last few months. No "Buy Now", asked them if they would do a "buy Now" of $95.00 and snapped it up. The buyer has been trying to sell it and has been asking for between $300 to $350 for it. It won't surprise me to see these reappear again as individual items from the buyer with a high mark up. I'm guessing they;ll be listed in the ball park of $1000 for each. Nikiwi - next time to stop this happening, put a bid on of $1.00 as it will negate the ability to be gazumped by a "Buy Now". Regards, David

Almost on cue, Toyco.co.nz are having a 20% off (or more?) on Lego. It looks like it's one of the "everything is discounted" sales rather than the exclusion of the more expensive sets. e.g. Mindstorms EV3, Tower Bridge, ... are discounted. Sale ends Wednesday Sept 17th. Regards, David

At US$180 + sales tax + shipping cost, you would probably just squeeze under the duty/GST requirements, assuming your friend in the US was happy to do this for you. You might want to consider getting them to place the order and ship it to themselves in the first instance and then on-ship it to you. As the set is more then US$75, it should qualify for free US shipping. The shipping cost to NZ would need to be no more than US$60. Use Bricklink to gain a rough size indicator, add a couple of centimeters to each dimension to factor in the shipping box and use the USPS website for shipping cost estimates. NZ Customs doesn't care whether something is new or used. The item value + shipping cost is what will determine whether or not you are liable for duty/GST. Having just done a one-time glance at the price of the set on BrickLink, I think using a friend in the US may be a cheaper option. Regards, David

From the NZ Shop @ Home terms and conditions web page (http://shop.lego.com/en-NZ/Terms-And-Conditions) under the heading Prices, "All prices are stated inclusive of all applicable taxes.". That kind of makes sense to me, since as they are selling to the NZ audience, my understanding is that the requirement is for prices to be inclusive of GST unless stated otherwise. With regards to using YS to order from the US S@H website, you need to be very lucky to slip passed their ordering/payment system. If they recognise the address as a freight forwarder's address, they will cancel the order. An order may initially be accepted but will likely subsequently get cancelled. I hadn't appreciated this restriction existed but found out about it when an order that I had placed was accepted but subsequently cancelled. From the Shipping & Returns page (http://shop.lego.com/en-US/Shipping-Returns) under the Shipping Restrictions header. "Please note: In order to protect our consumers and maintain our commitment to service excellence, we do not ship to Freight Forwarding Services." A few observations; #1 The limit is not NZD$400. Refer to the NZ Customs calculator here http://www.whatsmyduty.org.nz/. You will find it is less than NZD$400 and they will also include the shipping cost when assessing the duty/GST #2 The US S@H site prices do not show a roughly 7% sales tax. This is added to the cost at checkout. #3 Depending on what it is you are after/how long you are prepared to wait for it to come on sale somewhere, my rule of thumb is that if somewhere was it on sale for a 25% discount of the list price on NZ S@H, that is fairly close to what the total price would be if you were somehow able to buy it from the US, get it shipped to a US address and then on-shipped to NZ. For example, ToyCo seem to do 25% off selected sets quite frequently, though it is rare for them to include the expensive sets in the discounts (expensive = Mindstorm, Modular, the bigger Star Wars, ...). Note, this is only representative of my experiences. Others may have a different view. HTH. David

Yes it hangs together without the need of a baseplate. Looking at the picture now, I can see there is one colour in error. The grooved brick does not come in dark bluish gray but in dark gray. I'm communicating with Elroy @ Railbricks to see about getting the build instructions uploaded to the Railbricks website. I'll update the status on this thread accordingly. Regards, David. P.S. (2019) Here is a link to a PDF for the building instructions: https://bricksafe.com/files/djm/djm_public_documents/eurobricks/90_degree_24_LDU.pdf

Having completed the diamond crossing to my satisfaction, I turned my hand to resolving the protruding studs in the low height 90 degree crossing. Et voila! Note, no Lego bricks were harmed in the making of this crossing! David

I've turned it into some build instructions using LDraw/MLCad/LPub. I'm trying to get them uploaded to railbricks.com. In the meantime, here's a POV-ray rendering of the crossing:

Here we go, a picture of the crossing built using LDD and the LDD file itself. Once again, "illegal" LDD joins are colour coded to illustrate where the joins should be (blue to blue, green to green, etc). The expectation is to switch the coloured bricks with dark grey ones. I'll work on an LDraw file next and post an update with its location once it is available. Regards, David {Edit: original v5 LXF was missing a couple of bricks] diamond_crossing_v5.lxf

As promised, here is a video of the most recently modified crossing in action. I ran a test of an hour of continuous running during which time all of the rolling stock stayed attached and the crossing stayed intact! I'm reasonably satisfied that this version is fit for purpose. I'll post some build instructions here some time in the next week or two. Regards, David

Update teaser. I wanted to tweak the crossing a little as (a) the integral strength wasn't as good as I felt it needed to be and (b) I've seen on occasion a trailing carriage been left behind on the junction with the magnetic coupling not being quite there. I haven't had a chance to trial the modified design in anger but running a bogie over the modified design, it feels a little smoother. I suspect the decoupling was due to wheels catching on the edge of one of the bricks. So here's the teaser photo of the modified crossing: If I get the time this weekend, I'll trial it for an hour or so and video it (not for an hour or so). If it all hangs together, I'll create a LDraw (and possibly LDD) file of it. Regards, David