JopieK

Thanks deejay, did you overlook my question some days ago?! I'll post the link there too!!! Can you elaborate on how to modify the 7896 switch?!!! Update: Uh, it is 7996, not 7896!!!

That indeed is a very nice find! So at last we can service motors without destroying notches etc. huh!!! You can also do other neat tricks now. Thanks for your small tutorial.

Well, they were wrong... The only way to use it well is sticking with the upper (and expensive) options.Please first check other discussions about the EN at Eurobricks... This is a form for AFOLs so keep in mind that a lot of people here are able to help you, but only if you keep up with the rules... The PF parts that you describe are suitable for a small LEGO technic set, not for a train, especially not for the EN.

A good roller coaster doesn't need an extra engine of course (I have never seen a roller coaster that does, although there are some coasters that have boosters somewhere in the track). Knex: click Link: http://knexinnovation.net/showthread.php?92-Roller-Coaster-Booster

DCC sucks for LEGO. LEGO is not heavy enough. I did quite some tests and they did not go too well (a colleague made brass replacement wheels)... And besides that, DCC is a very heavy protocol, with Arduino (or even just a normal Atmel or PIC microcontroller) you can implement all thing you want. Johan

Well it is still a very new set so ask customer services. We always use outside quality vinyl for our reproduction stickers, but you never know what LEGO uses, seems they use different materials for different sets.

Well, join a club for LUGBulk orders, I always try to get good deals at Ebay.

Very nice building, we also still need to rebuild our church in winter style (we have had a winter town for about 5 years now). Two towers are really nice. Most Dutch (at least protestant) churches just have one.

Most special part are the stickers, (if you need those, PM me, we still have some reproductions left) http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemInv.asp?S=4999-1 (we do it for a lot less than 30€ (bl price ;)) Apart from that: 6082 in green They cost about 5€ at brick link and the set has 4 of them.

I hope to receive a couple of linear actuators with memory wire today, hope they can be used in LEGO. I had some previous experiences with other memory wire and it was to unreliable for LEGO, but have good hopes of this solution. HAs nothing to do with Railbricks (at least not right now), but is ontopic for the issue with points etc.

Well, it is available in quite some Dutch speciality stores and in the German LEGO stores. We don't have any TRU's anymore, they went bankrupt and are now ToysXL stores.

Google is your friend: http://www.bricksetforum.com/discussion/649/10219-maersk-train-light-modification-looking-for-ideas

I did one with alu foil, was quite successful, but I moved also to PF so no real need for that for me too. Automating the switch is however one of my plans.

When we read this topic, http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=33819 the question is asked (actually to me, but I didn't notice it back then), how to modify the switch so it gets more possibilities. My boss asked me about it too (actually not my direct boss, but his boss ;) quite interesting to see AFOLs in all layers of organizations) and also for myself of course: I did some research: Normal switch: http://www.brickshel...ery.cgi?f=25276 Cross switch: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=425176 http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=4399207 Here is the guy with the solution, but I don't really get the exact instructions: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=147934 His instructions with my comments: Motorized Crossover Pointsby Mark J E Bellis June 20081. Remove the Switch Rails and modify the springs.Take care in removal - you do it at your own risk. I used a screwdriver under the switch rail next to its pivot. [JK: Uh, where exactly is that supposed to be? Does he mean the small moving part of the switch, so "Let the entire switch face upwards, then put a screwdriver under the switching part of the switch] A small scratch on the crossover may not be noticed as it is under the switch rail. Gradually and carefully bend the ends of the spring in order to alter the defaultposition of each switch rail relative to the slider lug that is underneath it.Remember to bend left and right switch rail springs in opposite directions! [JK: so we want all 4 switching rail parts to stand in a straight position, so that is quite logical] They should be in mirror image positions when you have finished. With springs in correct positions, both switch rails will be half way between thetwo end positions when the crossover slider is in the middle of its travel. [Yups, so don't forget the start with that in step 1!!!] In this position a train will go down the straight path from the toe end of the point. It is possible to test the spring position before clicking the pivot back into place. Do not remove a switch rail too many times or you might damage thepivot catch that holds it in place. When you have finished, trains will go down the straight paths on both sides ofthe crossover when the slider is in the middle. 2. Remove the lever frame.Take care in removal - you do it at your own risk.I used a thin modelling saw to begin the cuts, a Stanley knife to complete them andneedle files to smooth the remaining part of the lever frame. [JK: so that sounds scary, where do I cut, what exactly do I cut...] Be careful not to scratch other parts of the crossover.Be careful to avoid cutting the slider lugs (that the lever usually moves). When removed successfully, the middle should be flat apart from the 2 slider lugs.3. A 3M axle and 2 toggle joints will be used to move the slider.The middle of the axle moves the slider. 4. Pneumatic cylinders will move each end of the actuating axle.I used only the bottom nozzles because the top ones sometimes leak. Better to have reliability for long-term use at public exhibitions.Therefore I used 8 pneumatic cylinders. This design is best where the track is raised up and built into modules. You will need 8 plates height below the rail pieces to mount your crossover. 5. On the real railway, both ends of a crossover are usually actuated together. UK signal box levers and diagrams show evidence of this. Therefore, connect up the pneumatic hoses to just 2 valve switches with T-junctions. Arrange the hoses so that the crossover is straight with both switches away from you. This means one set of pneumatics up and one down at each end of the crossover. When the left lever is moved down, the crossover should move to bottom left to top right. The crossover should return to staight when the left lever is moved up again. When the right lever is moved down, the crossover should move to top left to bottom right. The crossover should return to staight when the left lever is moved up again. If both levers are moved down, the crossover will be straight, but this is not proper practice! Therefore you may wish to use levers to block such action on your control panel. 6. Place suitable parts around the motorized crossover to ballast it for your layout. The crossover has fewer studs than the 9V points, so you can use clip parts to vary the colors. I chose black for sleepers and black/dark grey mix for the ballast. This is because on my layout the crossover will be in the yard, where more ash and oil are dropped. You might like to use lighter grey ballast if your crossover is on the main line. I kept some of the dark bley crossover colour in the ballast where it was convenient. I surrounded the actuation lever with ballast to the same height. The height of the ballast allows any rail vehicle of any scale to go over the crossover because the height is limited to 1 stud height (1.6mm) above the rail. Have fun!Mark

Maybe this one will fit? http://www.conrad.com/Battery-holder-D-6-AA-155-X-30-X-15.htm?websale7=conrad-intπ=615595&ci=SHOP_AREA_14720_0501190 6x AA batteries in a long row. If I compute it correctly, it costs about 21 studs, so it will fit. Other option (but ugly outside): http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/292615

Did you also take a look at the fixes (o.a.) proposed by Ludo Soete: http://issuu.com/railbricks/docs/rb7

I haven't tried it yet, but I think the batterybox will be tricky indeed!!! Of course you can put the power source in another car or modify it a bit like the Maersk engine but that might be difficult with the colorings.

Nothing bad happens in LEGO city huh ;) I know a Dutch guy that builds all major calamities of a year in LEGO. But well, anyway, a nice and simple but effective MOC.

Maybe in Red, but I have never seen them in white or yellow (although the latter may be available). A small microcontroller will also do the job, but be careful that you don't connect the LED's directly to the outputs (one is fine, but 10 will be too much).

What mould (uhh, I think mold, mould is like a mushroom) are you referring to then? But a brown crocodile would be neat indeed!

But there are lugs in the neighborhood aren't there? E.g. UtahLUG.org

I was looking for that reference to the extension of PF, anyone in here knows about that? I forgot to save the link... B.t.w. the http://www.talkingel.../SignalsP1.html idea is indeed great, I already thought about that too. When more important projects are under control I will share my ideas.

Very nice :) LEGO should come with a TinTin set I think :)

Thanks for the compliments. Here is a link to the contest again, quite some others did also a great job: http://www.flickr.com/groups/1753302@N21/ B.t.w. it seems to be that that old Shell coworker didn't like them to move away from Shell to Octan.

You can of course always use your own LED's to make it less bulky :)