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emilstorm

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by emilstorm

  1. Thank you so much ?
  2. Hi can someone tell me the diameter in studs of a circle of the old light gray tracks? It’s the part 3329b https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3229b#T=C
  3. Very cool and very Volvo :) i really like the little walkway ón the tank, great idea. I Think the front could work really well as a 6 wide too.
  4. You could build a lot of short wedge shaped sections in SNOT and put them together at different angles to create both the turns and slopes. On the underside you can mix in some of those 1x2 bricks with a technic pin in them, and then mount them on some sort of technic structure. But it might look really blocky and would certainly be a nightmare to figure out how to mount them in alignment. Going with the wedge idea you could also just mix in some 1x1 plate with clip, or other types of clip elements, and then connect all the sections with flex tubes. That would be much easier to mount it on.
  5. The only example I could remember is this one http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=90733 the result looks quite good from what you can see in the photos. Maybe pm zidane for some tips.
  6. Maybe a shield could work, the size would be pretty good. Edit: you could take an oval one and attach it with one of these http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=11090#T=C to the type of "string" Athos uses.
  7. You could actually make it super compact by putting a toothed bush at the end of each axle and just put them end to end. But the rest of the construction might have to be pretty sturdy to keep them together.
  8. I thought about those wheels too, but the angle is 60 degrees with those Maybe one of those +\o liftarms suggested, but with an 8 tooth gear on each axle to fix the axles in their position.
  9. You can maybe use one of these types of plates http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=4263#T=C where you fix the axles position with a toothed bush. You can maybe even attach the liftarm of the pendulum directly on the studs of the plate and not need the lower axle. But it would of course have to be a liftarm with only pin holes.
  10. Ah, i forgot it has a different bottom! But I am sure there is an other simple solution for it.
  11. A 2654 with one of these http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=20482#T=C placed in the middle between the studs should make a pretty nice and functional shield.
  12. There is the round clip on road sign, but I think it might be 2x2. And then there is the round part of the 2x2 turntable, but it has the studs on one side that protrude a bit. Those were the 2 that came to mind. Edit: 50254 train wheel small, it comes in white, but I guess it's kind of thick for a shield.
  13. I have never owned this type of stair elements, so I don't know if this works, but how about a whole bunch of 1 X 2 round technic connectors held together by either a bunch of friction pins or a really long axle?
  14. Very nice and realistic fortress.
  15. It's been a really long time since I built technic, but as far as I know 3749 is as close as you will get. The only pin shorter than 2 studs I know of is the half pin, but that wouldn't do much good.
  16. Has anybody tried using Vienna lime on Lego? I am a great fan of Brasso for removing prints and scratches, but i am kind of over the smell and having to clean the parts after using the stuff. So I just remembered good old Vienna lime the other day, but I have only ever used it on garden furniture and other stuff where you don't really look at it up close. So I am wondering how it would work compared to Brasso.
  17. If you are just going for that straight look all the way around, just put some masking tape on the leg, one piece that just wraps around, aligned with the top of the foot. Then paint all the way around. If you are painting a whole surface like that it is pretty easy to make it look alright, and it's so tiny you wouldn't notice it unless you mess up really bad. Just don't put on too much paint, and wait till its dry before you take the tape off. When I used to paint these types of things I would put the piece on a 1x1 cone to make sure the whole bottom was not touching anything, it can mess up the paint job and excess paint will run down and form a 'thingy' if you place it on a flat surface.
  18. Brasso works really well to get the shine back and remove tiny scratches.
  19. What you could do is paint the metal part on the piece first, maybe use a template cut out of thin plastic. Then leave the space blank on a water slide decal with a black outline and put it on top. The thicker the black outline is, the less precise you would have to be on the paint job, and you can probably work out a cut out template that can be reused if you are making more than one.
  20. For small scratches an just generally blurry canopies, Brasso can work really well, and it is 100% safe for the parts.
  21. Ok, so I was up feeding my baby son and this came to me: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/muni/Misc/image.jpeg Math is for suckers :)
  22. Here is a suggestion ón how to do it. Sorry about the link, I am posting via my phone :) http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/muni/Misc/image.jpeg The slope marked with stripes has been moved in half a plates height towards the center, I am sure it can be placed exactly where you have it if you spend some time playing around with it :) Edit: by the way, the part marked 1x1tec is of course a 1x1 technic brick turned sideways. And the whole thing obviously has pretty much zero structural integrity, there are only 3 studs facing up. Second edit: it seems my second upload to brickshelf replaced my first, so this one should solve all problems. It is also a bit stronger.
  23. I am hoping for a penguin guy/girl, since they for some odd reason chose to design those penguin arms for the shark guy.
  24. It looks really great built in bricks :) and the stickers suit it! I like how the front looks with the grills angled the other way, instead of how they were in the LDD. Nice looking crew as well!
  25. How about the Dung Beattle for a name :) Anyway, nice design, it reminds me of a little version of the garbage vehicles from Blade Runner. I would go for wheels, I think it would be more realistic for a heavy vehicle like this, and I imagine they would have waste chutes in the future, do no need to fly.
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