dsoffers

He meant an MFi Bluetooth controller.. (Quote from Wikipedia) The SBrick looks awesome and I'm regretting not getting one during the kickstarter phase, guess I'll have to buy one from the website.

Looking good so far, I bought 8070 a few months ago and I'm almost ready to start building it, hoping to eventually upgrade it to RC. So I can't wait to see how this will work out.

While I never cared for 'construction vehicles' I caught myself buying some (42006 & 42028) a few weeks ago. And this week I bought 42009 for 126€ (brand new). Not a bad price imo. (@HerrPierre: What I meant was you could have saved yourself 20€ by buying it at Collishop again this week. )

On the original build I misplaced one of the red axle's when connecting the LA to the boom, therefore locking it tightly in place and now I fear I may have forced it while testing.. I rebuilt the base structure completely but it didn't help at all. Then I rebuilt the boom which did not help either. I'm suspecting the LA itself might be causing the trouble.

Thanks tedson99 and zux, I've looked into your tips.. I've checked the instructions over and over again, closely inspecting the gearbox, and I don't see any gears that are 'off'. And I agree the 16T LBG gear looks a bit close to the liftarm in the picture, in real life it isn't that bad though. I've tried moving it but it's not so easy without tearing everything apart. Which is what I'll be doing tonight: rebuilding the gearbox. I'm gonna try and keep as much as possible intact (like the base and the boom) so it won't take me another 4 hours to put it back together.

While 169,99 definately is a nice price, you could have gotten it for 160 at Collishop/Dreamland. They're currently (only this week) offering -15% off on Technic.

I don't like posting these kinds of threads as I can imagine it's a pain in the *youknowwhat* to diagnose a problem based on text and pictures but I'm really about to start pulling my hair out because I'm out of ideas.. Having built 42006 yesterday (took me about 4 hours, yes I'm a pretty slow builder) and testing all the various functions, I immediately stumbled upon a problem. Raising/Lowering of the boom works great, so does opening and closing the claw. Extending the boom does not.. The upper LA is giving me a lot of resistance when using the 'knob' at the back. When I take out the axle and test the gears without the LA connected, everything is smooth. When I plug the axle straight into the LA and test it I get no resistance at all. Once I place the axle back it takes a lot of effort to turn the knob. I'm out of possible troubleshooting idea's and having reviewed all the instructions multiple times I can't seem to find the problem. I've also compared my spare parts pile with Youtube reviews and the pictorial review here on EB, the only extra spare parts I have are 2 "track pieces", which can't have anything to do with the LA.. The one that's been bugging me. On the left, with the axle connected to the LA, it works great. On the right, with the axle in place and using the knob at the back, I get tons of resistance. I hope it can be fixed without having to disassemble the entire thing.. If someone could point me in the right direction to what I might have missed, that would be great.

Nice truck, good looking and a good speed/crawling ability. Your outdoors track is pretty awesome as well.

Welcome back VitageCharlie, it looks better than I expected on the 9398 chassis.

I expected more, to be honest. Thanks.

Even though I'm not much of a Ferrari fan, this is extremely cool. How many parts does it need?

@Julian_pdx: It's made out of black parts, not dark blue.

Not really sure if it's a bargain but I bought a MISB 8070 yesterday for 120€, same price as Lego wanted for it 3y ago. Now I'm not sure if I'm gonna open it or keep it sealed.. (I'd love to build it but lacking space to display it.)

Every time you post an update it gets even better. I've been trying to build a chassis as I'd prefer to build it as you pictured above. I have half of it in LDD as it lacks some of the necessary parts, should be enough to start building the body onto it though. In the next few days I'll be ordering everything I need on Bricklink and once I've build it in real life I should have a good starting point to try to use your body on it. Ofcourse if I ever manage to finish it you'll be the first to hear. Btw, if you don't mind me asking, when is your son's birthday? (I'm curious as to what deadline you're working with. )

As promised, the ISD parts list: (Click for full size.)

I know I'm repeating myself but it's looking good. I had a quick peak at the LDD file (I was curious as to how it would look in different colors) this afternoon and I noticed a couple of unattached pieces which you may already be aware of: * The wheel arches are currently not connected to anything so in real life they wouldn't stay in place at all. Unfortunately there is no gravity in LDD so it won't complain about it, but it may cause an issue when you're trying to build it. * The chrome pipes near the front bumper, below the doors as well as the exhausts are suffering from the same problem. * The doors: The 2x5 panel is connected to the top 11M beam but the 2 below that and the 2M beams next to the panel are loose. The left door has more issues then the right one but both doors would need some more pins to keep it all together. I'd suggest a couple of long pins to help keep all the 11M beams together. I'm guess most of this can be solved once you have a chassis to connect everything to, unfortunately I'm not experienced enough in Technic to try and build one myself.

Partslist for the AT-AT: (Clickable for bigger, don't think it's very readable at this size. :P) I should have the ISD parts list tomorrow.

For those who're interested in the AT-AT..

It just keeps getting better and better, I'd love to build this the way you pictured it above instead of combining it with the 9398. Both will look good though, I'm quite sure of that. On the 9398 set the top is connected to the chassis with 4 pins, 2 (red) in the back and 2 (grey) behind the doors. I've tried to make decent pictures but I'm not sure if they'll be any help for you. If you need close-ups or if you want me to attempt to make better ones (I'll grab the DSLR then), all you need to do is ask. The 2 red pins in the back connect the top to the chassis. The 2 black pieces (1 of them is right below the PF cables in the top of the picture) connect with the grey pins in the bottom (which are hidden behind the doors once they're closed). When these are pulled back it allows the top to open to get to the battery box. More pictures here but I linked the best ones above. They're clickable for the full size version.

The "ISD buddy" started building his AT-AT today so I'll probably have some pictures for you again soon.. He does not have the old version though so I can't provide comparison pics. I was looking forward to both sets but after receiving those pictures the ISD seems pretty boring to build, he disagreed though. I wonder if the AT-AT is any better.

Last bunch of ISD pictures:

He ended building a bit more last night so I woke up this morning with these in my inbox: I'm not sure what changed exactly but this is the 2014 redesign of Vader.

No problem. More pics sometime tomorrow when he's continuing with the 2nd book.

I didn't compare them side by side but I had a feeling the wheels were different.. At the moment I'm considering buying an extra CMF Bart and combining his skateboard with the wheels from the house one.

Buddy of mine bought both the AT-AT and the ISD today. Turns out his AT-AT box is damaged so he'll be exchanging it tomorrow. He is going to start with the ISD tonight however and he was kind enough to send me these pics: Lots of stickers. :( More to come when I receive them. *edit* Next batch..