Sariel

So it's good that I've added that planetary gear calculator. As far as I know, driving a turntable from the inside works the same as planetary gearing.

Since you like the tool so much I have also added a separate calculator for planetary gears in there. I know not a lot of people use these, seeing as there are literally 3 Lego pieces you can use as the outer ring, but I thought it may be useful since the planetary ratio formula is a bit more complex than with regular gears.

It's perfectly possible but it needs some serious calculations (we're talking checking hundreds of thousands of possible combinations), and that's why I'm not going to run this on my server which is already stretched thin. Fortunately, there is an excellent tool that does just that made by Erik Leppen a while ago, you can download it here: http://sandbox.yoyogames.com/games/9962-lego-gear-calculator Your PC will most likely panic over running an .exe file from the internet, but I can confirm it's safe. It's a great tool, but at the moment it doesn't include newest stuff like the 60t turntable.

The new turntable's inside is smooth. The old one has 24 teeth, just like the 24t gear.

I made some fixes, changes and upgrades to my Gear Ratio Calculator, full changelog is included below. Changes: - all icons and images of gears and motors have been changed (you’ll need to clear your browser’s cache to see the change) - drop-down lists of gears and motors are now wider to accommodate more items - added 16t gear with clutch on both sides, small Technic turntable, new 2015 large Technic turntable and worm gear with stops at both ends - added PF L and PF E motors - type 2 differential now uses separate images for the 16-teeth side and for 24-teeth side If you notice any bugs, please use this thread to report them.

I felt this vehicle wasn't getting the attention it deserves, so... Photos & reading: http://sariel.pl/2015/10/mad-mad-peacemaker/

Very professional video, I have enjoyed every minute of it. Thanks for your effort!

Here are 3 alternative (not necessarily better) ways of mounting GoPro:

I've used a couple of types of super-thin fishing lines. They are very, very strong and they don't stretch even a bit, but they can cut your fingers and they are kind of stiff. I found it much harder to tie a standard knot on a fishing line than or a regular string because of how stiff and slippery they are.

You're full of surprises :) Good thing Forza 6 is just a few days away...

I absolutely love the cats' stupefied reaction. There's quite a potential here! ;)

Well, I wanted something fast and driftey. And blue. Pics & reading: http://sariel.pl/2015/09/nissan-skyline-gtr/

That will work. For thin rope, though, you can go much simpler. Just pull the rope through a 1/2 pin, put that pin where needed and close it with a round plate. As long as the rope isn't too thick, it will hold pretty tight. And you can leave excess of the rope sticking from under the plate for future adjustments.

Sorry, at the moment I have one hamster who's too old to act and two who are too young to act. Unexpected age gap ;) Thanks, I guess I just build stuff I need :) I have the music too, listening to it makes your hair form a mullet all by itself, but I wasn't sure if I can legally use it without breaching copyrights.

Very nice comparison, thank you. It goes to show, however, that this new windshield from Lego F40 is silly. I mean it's completely flat and will look bad on most cars because you can't model that lower curve cutting into the hood. Hell, even Countach's windshield wasn't that flat.

Well, the car is complete crap aesthetically, but I though you may find the steering system useful: Instructions for the steering system are here: http://sariel.pl/downloads/

And I'm with you on it, but you know some people are immune to reason ;)

Can we please not start the same discussion again?

Thanks guys, I made instructions for the firing mechanism: http://sariel.pl/2015/08/t29-shooting-mechanism/

It's very simple: there's an axle with one end locked to the chassis and the other locked to the arm with road wheel on it. You can add bricks with round pin holes in the middle to support the axle without locking it. Now, as the axle twists and untwists, the road wheel goes up and down. And no, I was never able to damage an axle this way. Of course, this kind of suspension requires some weight to work well. In this model it worked very softly with the load of 3 kg / 16 road wheels = 187 grams per one torsion bar. I didn't feel like destroying half of the turret every time the AAA batteries run dry.

Well guys, this was built primarily because I got tired of reading about how cool would it be to have a tank that shoots through it barrel every time I publish some tank model. So here, it shoots, it gets ammo from a clip (it's definitely too simple solution to be called an autoloader), and it's got 10 motors total doing lots of various stuff: Some more details, including the backstory and plenty of pics: http://sariel.pl/2015/08/t29-heavy-tank/ T(h)anks!

This.

The cover would probably help a bit if it was very smooth. But I don't see any way to make it smooth with LEGO. A 3D-printed cover, perhaps? The video Max linked shows larger propellers, I think. The size of a propeller has huge impact on how much thrust you get, especially since it's not always faster = better. All propellers are efficient within certain speed ranges and above certain speed they just don't get any more effective.

I have finally found a moment to test Efferman's propellers. These: http://www.shapeways.com/product/5FGQ2E6CX/boat-propellor-5-studs I think they work pretty well. I have noticed that they generate some thrust sideways, but I guess that's inevitable. Most of the thrust is going in the desired direction, though, the speed is really good and I think there is less drag and smoother water flow than with regular Lego propellers.

Well, I still have these 3D-printed propellers from Efferman that I need to test.