efferman

really? ok, then i should switch the battery boxes directly. the cab should big enough for this and maybe i build this and then it should have really enough space and weight picture source edit: the final baseframe is finished 100_0487 von efferman auf Flickr

yes, the suspension is actually to stiff and the frame to flexible, the final modell should work fine. the servo controls the four PF-XL with the two direction reversers. so i have the full current of the battery boxes and i need only one receiver for an multi motor setup.

please take a seat and be the co-driver

no wonder when nearly no manufacturer get in competition on the dakar rally against kamaz but anyway the trucks are great and fast and this model looks gorgeous

... of the fotobox tomorrow hopefully a vid in terrain

my dirt grabbers has arrived and they look great but unfortunately ther are a small modification at the rims neccessary normaly i dont cut lego, but because of the price of the dirt grabbers i think its worth

the third axle is final, because i have reached nearly 60 cm in length, the next update will be outside 100_0482 von efferman auf Flickr

maybe there are some influences, and i will see it first at a testtdrive, but where would be the technical reality when no one test out his sick ideas?

maybe i will have a bad awakening when the Kat is pulling my mog through the forest, but i think the 12 tooths are good secured to the 24 tooths.

the balljoint between the axles will be guided with my liftarm solution from my Big G. if there will happen no disaster, the axles will go straight forward. zblj, which slip on the 12 tooths?

again a minor change, but at this time from complex and fragile to simple but solid. the main reason was the big amount of universal joints wich the older version has needed. this version needs only 4, the fragile version would need 20 universal joints. as transmission system i have tried a limited slip diff. to realise this, i have used one of the white torque limiter gears. it is mounted at one of the diff outputs and is driven by the same axle which drives the full diff. this realizes at the same time the slip limiting and reducing the strain on the center 12 tooth in the diff. the complete gear ratio is 1:8

to be exact the center 8 tooth gear is driving the four planetary 8 tooths which are mounted at the wheel. the four eight tooths are reacting with the static 24 tooth at the turntable and pushes the wheel forward. for more informations read this at wikipedia

well, with lego the whole suspension is a bit experimental and if it wouldnt work in terrain.... well, then i have my rocksolid but not scale axles from my big G

when it is no problem for you, then it is okay for me. i have assembled the second axle and made a short test of the positions of the linkage. the pneumatic cylinders and the position of the mountig points at the frame are only for testing

is it only me or is the torque ball mounted a bit to high? when the springs are compressed, the axles moving back?

no, currently i think about 4 XL for the whole truck, but i will try different setups

the ground clearance is the same to the ldd file version, only the fixing points of the wishbones are lower, and my big G has only one stud more ground clearance in the middle of the axle. sure i could generate more ground clearance when i would use portal axles, but the original MAN 8x8 has no portal axles i will dont use it too. dont forget that this will be not a crawler, but an relatively original following 8x8 truck. the goal is not to climb over every obstacle, the goal is an relative original chassis in the borders of Lego edit:when you look at hthis sketch you will see why oy use this linkage and not something simple but rocksolid

wow, iam in love with this and i have redesigned the axle. lower is actual not possible from my point of view

because the other wishbones are in the back and not under the axle. when i mount the upper wihshbone deeper , it could be possible that the axle will be unstable in driving direction. sure i could mount the rear wishbones under the axle but this would be not good for ground clearance. edit: today at work i have thinked about your words and i will look what i can do. but you should think about following: where is the difference in height from ground to the tow ball when you compare my axle with an portal axle?

the full first axle http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/efferman/10to-mil-gl/firstaxle.lxf

it seems that it has an very high center of gravity

i have made an ldd model of my planetary gear wheels. please note that the center 8 tooth gear drives four 8 tooth gears http://www.brickshel...lanetaryhub.lxf please remove the green part in real life and cover the hole with something you like, i prefer a 6x6 parabolic dish

and at every bump i will have a pfft. then i could call em the *arting 8x8 maybe greasing the the damper inside with silicon grease to make em faster?

this is the only fear i have. but the Kat will be slow too. if the dampers are to slow i will see it first, when i have built the full chassis and received the 6 dampers which i have ordered today

a bit compression is good because it allows better ground contact. theires is only one way to see if 8 dampers enough for the truck for the smaller front axles i will make a ldd file could use it later maybe @ps i have tried the watts linkage on my unimog Moc and it needs to much space for my opinion and it offers no significant advantage to my liftarm method. and would you not say that it works good?