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greenmtvince

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Everything posted by greenmtvince

  1. greenmtvince
    I'm all for this solution! I've used the Kadee 806 couplers installed like legoboy3998 and while they work well in operation, installation and alignment becomes a project in itself. I run switching layouts and prefer manual decoupling to remote decoupling. It better simulates the work the brakeman would have to do while working a yard. My other use case is for long heavy freight trains at shows that require no buildup or breakdown of the consist. Just as long as I can poke it somehow with a 12 inch bamboo skewer to get it to release, I'd be good to go. Auto-centering isn't that big of an issue for the show use case (I can manually align couplers as I'm setting up the train) and I could probably live without it for normal switching operations if it meant getting a lower cost product now, rather than a perfect solution later. Any chance I could buy some beta versions of this coupler without the autocentering? I can provide some testing feedback and video.
  2. greenmtvince
    Have all the ABS only backer kits been shipped yet? Trying to figure out if I got missed or should still be patiently waiting.
  3. greenmtvince
    Just ensuring credit goes to the right place, the trucks the second design were based on were developed by Matt Csenge. Michael Gale turned the LDD files into instructions so everyone could build them. I'm not familiar with the prototypes you're trying to model, but if it helps, the my design was supposed to represent these trucks, while Matt's were to represent these trucks . It's all pretty abstract, but maybe that will help you better match the look you're trying to achieve.
  4. greenmtvince
    Here's a Bluerender of my Mikado that probably shows it best. Some other shots including the finished model including my Pacific are in this album. I opted to round up to 2 studs since it's a prominent feature and a good 1.5 stud option was nearly impossible. Cale opted to go down to 1 stud for his Suburban. If you decide to do matching coaches as they were used in service in and around Montreal, I have the printed bricks.
  5. greenmtvince
    Very handsome looking steam locomotive there! Is it motorized?
  6. greenmtvince
    Wow. Nicely done. I like seeing CN steam. Number 49 is on my to-do list someday. The articulation you've employed is really impressive. The only thing I'd change is the Elesco feedwater heater on the smokebox right in front of the smokestack. It's a signature feature of most CN locomotives. I have a technique I use on my CN Mikado and Pacific you might like. Cale has a different one that works well on his CNJ Suburban that's very similar to the X-10-a. Any plans for a rake of CN commuter coaches to go with it?
  7. greenmtvince
    I just received an order for R104s and double length straights I placed a few days prior. I thought their turnaround time was pretty quick. They've been pretty communicative in the past. I'm still waiting on my all ABS backer kit, but I've been happy to have additional geometries at all.
  8. greenmtvince
    You don't need a large layout to run prototypical or semi-prototypical operations: Inglenook by Vinnie Fusca, on Flickr Port Lego by Vinnie Fusca, on Flickr SwitchingLayout by Vinnie Fusca, on Flickr Claremont Concord Railway - Claremont, NH Aside from Carl Arend't Microlayouts, Trevor Marshall dedicates a good deal of his blog to single-person small crew operations, including his own lovely CN Port Rowan.
  9. greenmtvince
    Nice work capturing a prototypical locomotive. You can definitely see the elements of the S1 that you've replicated perfectly and as you say there's room for some improvements around the height. I'd suggest building up the hood some more.
  10. greenmtvince
    Congrats! You've done a great service to the train community!
  11. greenmtvince
    Okay, this is a cool prototype. I gotta look into this one a little more. Oh, and nice model. Great work!
  12. greenmtvince
    I don't have a set of calipers or track handy at work, but I think the distance between the rails works out such that if you're modelling at 1 stud = 1 foot, you have standard gauge. The distance between the rails is slightly less than 5 studs. Hence why some modelers insist on 10-wide. However, traditional scale modelers are known for looking the other way on track gauges as well. Typically to represent a narrow gauge, the equipment (tracks, wheels, and motorized components) of a full scale above or below the modelling scale is used for convenience (eg an HO scale modeler will use N scale track.) Thus, the same track is used for 2', 30", and 3' gauge alike. Only the most dedicated of hobbyists will handlay and scratchbuild to proper gauge. I've chosen 1:48/8-wide as my modelling scale as the best compromise of detail, proportions to Lego elements, operations, and availability of traditional scale products like decals and couplers. I'm a stickler when it comes to my models, but like my traditional scale counterparts I'll look the other way on track gauge if it gives me good reliable performance.
  13. greenmtvince
    Currently working on a 43.2mm "XXL" spoked driver in printed ABS, one variation for a famous northeast train, the other patterned after the B&M P4 and New Haven I4 locomotives. 36.8mm North American Boxpok as used on the Canadian National Northerns also in the works. Stay tuned for details.
  14. greenmtvince
    Fine looking consolidation there! Can't wait to see it in brick hauling some trains!
  15. greenmtvince
    With another club member, we're modelling part of the former Mountain Division of the Maine Central Railroad that made its way from Portland, ME through the scenic and rugged mountains of New Hampshire to St. Johnsbury, VT. One of the significant landmarks along the route at the summit of the White Mountains is the Crawford Notch Train Station. Built in 1891 it features a number of distinctly Victorian elements and its these elements that are giving me considerable difficulty, particularly the witches hat tower and its roof, as well as the multi-angled roof and overhang. I have some architectural diagrams with dimensions that I've been working from. Here's the rough footprint I've started on which works out to the roughly same 1:48 scale as our trains: I was wondering if anyone had some suggestions for how to tackle the roof and the tower or if there were good references to similar Victorian MOCs where I might be able to pick up a few techniques.
  16. greenmtvince
    From Philo's Batteries and Battery Packs Comparison http://philohome.com/batteries/bat.htm The voltage advantage of 1.5V Alkalines vs 1.2V NiMH is present only for the first few minutes of operation. As you can see from the curves, performance drops dramatically after that. If you run at high currents with long trains or especially heavy MOCs, you can see the performance matches the graph. The difference is less noticeable at lower currents such as a stock train set. The above linked page shows low current profiles of AA batteries. Eneloop's are good. I've looked at some other battery tests and seen that the Energizer's and Amazon brand NiMH rechargeables are comparable, so you can trade a bit of capacity or discharge performance for price or availability if need be in most scenarios. A smart charger is probably the most important investment for long term performance of your batteries. If you want more run time, you should try to find a way to fit AA batteries in your model. The capacity and discharge performance blow away the Lego LiPo. If you want more run time and more power... nominal 9.6V and ~2300mAh. with 8x AA NiMH
  17. greenmtvince
    Here's my 1949 Central Vermont 'Ambassador'. https://www.flickr.com/photos/66991564@N00/21211322638/in/faves-36177188@N03/ It's about 20 straight track segments long. There was a fifth car planned for the train, but I wasn't able to get enough dark red before the show.
  18. greenmtvince
    I love little porter tank engines and would love to see this one built! I agree with the above that the image is a bit too dark. You should throw it into Photoshop, GIMP, or some other image editor and adjust the shadow/highlight levels. I do that with my steam locomotives in Bluerender. Edited: Not optimized, but it should give everyone a better idea of the fantastic details.
  19. greenmtvince
    I use this for most tube applications: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJGV9&P=7 Same outer diameter. The only drawback is that it's a little stiffer and a little narrower inner diameter, so if you need to jam a minifig hand in the end you can't and if you do any complex bending or shaping, you need to reinforce the shape with brass tube or piano wire.
  20. greenmtvince
    The Central Vermont used to have that blue and red scheme as well, while the parent company locomotives had the black and red. You could use L drivers (either blind or flanged) for the roof vents. The Big Ben Bricks ones might be best since they don't have a counterweight. Looks great BTW!
  21. greenmtvince
    In the states I probably had mine within a week of ordering it, but that was back in August. If there was a major convention recently or they are processing the Kickstarter backer kits as they had indicated in the last update, I can imagine there might be some delay.
  22. greenmtvince
    My rule of thumb for 8-wide North American Steam is: L = 57" Drivers XL = 69" Drivers M = 45" Drivers The XL is two plates larger than the L. I usually just flip the flanged L driver around in LDD to represent an XL in the model. It won't give you the flanges, but will give you the basic wheel clearances: (The prototype here has 72" Drivers, close enough for XLs)
  23. greenmtvince
    Here's my go at Bluerender with 1:48 scale steam. Central Vermont Railway T-3-a class: Though the smallest of the Texas type locomotives in North America they were the largest locomotives to operate in New England. They were restricted from operating south of Brattleboro, VT, but were an essential part of the manifest freights that moved goods from US ports on the Atlantic coast, across Canada and to Chicago. Grand Trunk (New England Lines) S-1-f class #3406 (WIP): Similar to their larger Texas counterparts on the Central Vermont, the Mikado's of the Grand Trunk New England lines moved manifest freights from Portland, ME to Island Pond, VT. #3406 was the last steam powered fast freight into Portland on April 22, 1956 and the last local freight out of Portland a few months later on June 15. Grand Trunk (New England Lines) E-7-a class #713 (WIP): Built in 1900, and assigned to Island Pond, VT, this little mogul worked the GT NE line until 1954 when it was selected to haul the Canadian National museum train across Canada. From the mid 40s until 1954, it was the primary power on the 7.5 mile long Lewiston Branch mixed train. It is preserved at Exporail outside of Montreal.
  24. greenmtvince
    Thanks for introducing me to Bluerender. I've found it an invaluable resource for visualizing my LDD creations. I'd like to share as well. @Electricsteam would you like to keep this thread for your own MOCs, or should the rest of us use this one to share?
  25. greenmtvince
    Steve, which size of magnets does one need for the magnet holder and coupler you sell?
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