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Hello all, I was checking the website from PV Productions for any new models, when I saw that they are now producing USB to Powerfunctions converter. Combined with any powerbank you have or simple usb-charges , this would give easy option to always have power for running GBC etc. Link = https://pv-productions.com/product/usb-power-box/ Has anybody already used this ? Or any experience with similar things ? Thank you for any advise you can give me.
CorporalDwayneBricks posted a topic in General LEGO DiscussionInterested in lighting up MOCs and sets with tiny LEDs, but not really interested in spending time soldering.. So I would be looking for pre-made starter kits/set kits and ideally with nice expand-ability. I investigated a bit and found vendors called "Brickstuff" and "light my bricks", but those are both US or Australian based. Are there any sellers for Germany/Europe? Is there some sort of a standard/market leader emerging? Also what are folks using for power? The USB connector method per LED and then a hidden USB powered hub/power supply or battery based? Seems battery based would be quite a waste if we are talking lighting up 5+ different MOCs/sets but then 1x USB connector per light is also nuts it seems. Thanks for any hints!
TK2241 posted a topic in LEGO Train TechHello all, I'm trying to find a way to create a power/data coupling between train cars that can be connected/disconnected like the car coupling magnets. Has anyone done anything like this? Background: This is so that I can supply power and control to LED lights (and maybe other devices) in the cars being pulled behind the engine, which will provide the power and control unit (Arduino based MCU) I've tried using a micro USB magnetic connector, but they are too bulky and don't flex easily enough for this. I'd love to find out if anyone has engineered anything similar. Thanks in advance! Arlo
Hi! This is a small island made for the Medieval table of our LUG exhibition, Oeiras BRInCKa 2016, last week. The Mists of Avalegon by Jorge Pereira, on Flickr This was the second time we had real water in our table and since one of us brought a smoking vulcano (real smoke from a RC "portable" fog machine intended for parties) I've been researching ways of doing a fog / mist effect at small scale. Have been working with model train smoke generators and also custom made smoke generators but for this particular MOC I decided to use 3 USB bottle cap air humidifiers. Each unit has a wick that brings water from the bottle to a small metal part at the top that vibrates fast enough to disperse the water in small droplets that float in the air - one can see two of those metal parts at the left size of the island, near the cauldron and the dolmen, the third one is hidden near the pine tree. Each wick was cut to the height of the unit and I also opened a small hole near the bottom so water could reach the wick. Luckily the USB plug is near the top of the cap so no need to protect it from water. At the beginning of the exhibition I used just 1 USB power adapter and 1 USB hub to power all units but later opted to use 3 power adapters to give enough power to each one (I suspect each can draw near 700 mA). It worked very well all 4 days, except that after 8 to 10 hours I also found that I had to remove and reconnect power, not sure if there's some kind of timer or temperature protection in the units. Merlin by Jorge Pereira, on Flickr The Merlin minifig is using a custom made cloak, printed with an inkjet printer on canvas ("Reeves acrylic pad", A5-size paper for painting, 190 grams per square meter) and a Brick Warriors lyre. I forgot to put the elf minifig original cloak but after some hours of exhibition I decided it was best to leave that way, there was already to much water over the MOC and it would probably ruin it.