Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'hardcell'.
Found 1 result
-
NEW MODELS WILL APPEAR IN THE REPLIES TO THIS THREAD Models now included in this thread: 1. Gungan Bongo 2. Sith Infiltrator 3. Nubian Royal Starship 4. Wookiee Catamaran 5. Firespeeder 6. Porax-38 (P-38) Starfighter 7. Homing Spider Droid 8. Hardcell Transport 9. Lucrehulk-Class Battleship 10. C-9979 Landing Craft 11. Droid Tri-Fighter 12. Geonosian Starfighter 13. Self-Propelled Heavy Artillery (SPHA-T) (NEW) Hello again everyone I hope everyone is safe and well. It is time to open up another thread with MINIs from the neglected prequels. GUNGAN BONGO First up, the Gungan Tribubble Bongo from Ep. I. I had the model from the original LEGO Star Wars video game in my collection for a long time: I had been meaning to build one myself for a while as this just looked so big on the stand next to Jar-Jar! The lockdown gave me the time and the opportunity. I decided to use the 2x2 transparent domes (astromech head) for the bubbles. I have seen a lot of models use transparent dishes but they just look too flat in my opinion. In essence, for the most part, this is a scaled down version of the model above with some newer parts. There are no clever techniques or anything like that but it looks quite striking on the stand with the Jar Jar minigifure and adds some colour to the collection. SITH INFILTRATOR Secondly, The Scimitar (again from Ep. I), also known as the Sith Infiltrator, which was a heavily modified Star Courier and the personal starship of Darth Maul. Like the Bongo I had previously had a LEGO version in my collection, a modified version of the Microfighter convention model from years ago. Again, this just looked big on the stand so with time on my hands I built my own. The nose section is not built using the normal wedge plates technique as there is not the correct size or gradient for this scale (nose is 4 studs wide). Instead I have used the 1x4 plate with offset and 1x8 tiles to create the dagger shape. A 1x3 plate holds the nose construction in shape towards the nose. There is also a 1x1 round plate with hole on a jumper plate underneath the 1x6 dark grey tile holding that in place. Apart from that no clever techniques really. The bottom dish is held there by the stud on a technic half pin which is in the holes from the round plates. And yes, I know the top dish is cracked (it is old) if you have spotted that. I have tried to hide this with the colour picker function in paint – I will have to order another from bricklink. I love how this one looks on display with Darth Maul and his probe droid. Let me know what you think. More soon. Jon
