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Showing results for tags 'L Gauge'.
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Hi all, some days ago I was watching some videos of LGB G-Gauge trains running in the garden. They're big and very well done...and really out of budget for me. So I wondered if I could replicate such a big locomotive using Lego. And trying to be cheap!!! A big train like that needs: an XXL PF Motor; a simple PF battery box; a PF receiver; a PF remote control. All in all we're at about 50 Euros from Lego Shop. 4 large flanged wheels from Lego or BBB (3 Euros each - 12 Euros) - our total increases to, let's say, 65 euros. Then, it's time to think about a body - it must be as simple as possible, sturdy, and without too many special parts. Since I was not particularly inspired (in these days I'm playing a lot with the new Lego Boost set) , I used a well known Lego model. Yes, it is what is seems - a 7720 multiplied by 2 - 32 studs long, 12 studs wide. Even the Voltage is doubled . This was painted blue, otherwise the two red "lights" would disappear. Since track is now quite small - I chose to draw only one central buffer, suggesting this is a narrow gauge model. As you can see it is simple as it can be. I think I can try to stay below the 100 euros limit. Then, this weekend I began to prepare the mock-up to test how heavy it could be, if everything fits inside and so on. Here below you can see the yet unfinished 7720 on steroids . In this photo I used a 45mm track from G-gauge - it is actually a part of LGB track. This big girl will be able to travel on both tracks. Reasoning in studs, the L-gauge puts 4 studs between the wheels, while the G-gauge requires exactly 5 studs. Since wheels will be mounted internally respect to the fake suspensions, both gauges can be achieved by adding or removing two half Technic bushes between the wheels (one per side, so 4 studs + 0.5 stud + 0.5 stud =5 studs). But we want to be cheap - and LGB track are not - so we'll keep the standard Lego track. You cannot see it from the photos, but the black part is all made by 3x2 and 4x2 parts - too small - but I had only those around. Inter-axle is 15 studs - BBB wheels can handle the R40 radius, but this is an heavy locomotive, so I think I'll shorten the inter-axle to 13 studs. Now I'm studying how to transmit power to the wheels - I was tempted to use a chain-driven system based on lego 3711 parts, but it costs a lot and I'm not sure how much weight and torque it can handle. I'll end using the Lego 32702 gears - they seem right and are cheap enough. Let's see how this develops!!! I personally am very curious to see it in action! Ciao! Davide
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I thought I'd put this out here for non Flickr users (and to be honest I dont blame anyone for not using it given its recent changes!) as its a subject that I find very interesting when it comes to building at 7 wide in LEGO, and hopefully others here will also find it of some interest or use to future builds? Many people know within the LEGO community that I strive for an almost "model realistic" look to my LEGO trains, its purely a personal prefference and offers an alternative to the table of building within the medium. One thing I noticed when I switched over to 7 wide 6 or 7 years ago is the first time I put them up against an O-Guage model, is just how close to O-guage model scale they were and with a few tweaks here and there, they could actually be built in some cases to be almost spot on scale wise. I've usually just put the pics of a particular LEGO model into its set / album on flickr, but I've now made a new album / set specifically for my findings every time I take comparison shots. I dont ever work to overlaid blue prints, etc so all my builds are pure guess work to the correct proportions from photos that I aquire of the real things.....and this is where I find most of the interest lays. When I initially design a model, sometimes it will be done using selective compression because I know trying to replicate a 60ft loco, is going to lead to problems through curves, points, etc. Some get to a very close compromise in length and some can be spot on, but I will always try to keep everything in proportion to each other, so that one is shorter to an other if it is in real life. I'll kick this off with a much older model that started out as a King Class, but when put next to an O-guage model lent itself scale wise to being almost spot on to a Castle Class, so with a few rebuilds, resulted in this: Full set: https://www.flickr.c...57629016823127/ So I took 9 work in progress models over today to take some comparison pics to see how I was "fairing up" in my guess work and the results were interesting. I wont go into the ones that I'm happy with, they will all continue to be finished off and posted at a later date. These are the ones that I will be re-working or at least looking at the options with: Class 35 Hymek diesel: My guess work so I thought was spot on with this, but (despite the angle the pics taken, the right end lines up with both models) its actually 4 studs too short. This is a loco that I can goto full scale length with, but with looking at the LEGO geometry against the models geometry I'm not so sure it will look "right" if taken out to the correct length. i.e. the grill bricks in LEGO being smaller than the models grills, hence if I elongate my model the spaces between them will start to look disproportionate. The 9v LEGO motor wheel spacing also plays a big part in this with what looks right, so only experimenting with elongating it out to the extra 4 studs will show the results. I'm expecting that it will not look right and take it back to what I have here, but there is only one way for me to find out. It may open up some possibilities that I didnt envisage at this stage......but this is all what makes it so interesting to me at least as a designer. 0-6-0 Hunslet saddle tank: This one has only been on the go for the last few days and I wasnt convinced with it, especially the rear tender, but I was surprised that I was 1 stud out with the length of the boiler and to me it makes a massive difference to the overall proportional look of the model, so back to the drawing board with this one, that 1 stud means another complete chassis rebuild, with offset wheel spacing, I'll also look at a rebuild in red or black, blue, etc....it may stay green but I'm not sold on it at this stage. 2-6-2 Large GWR Prairie: Now this one isnt like for like. The LEGO model is a Large Prairie, whilst the O-guage is a standard (unfortunately the guys dont have a Large version) but it still gave me a good enough impression of the LEGO models scale, which is about right. Ironically the cab on a large is a lower profile than the standard (or at least the profile of the curve is less), but the boiler is longer with higher side water tanks and lowered running boards on the rear tender. I've always been tempted between the 2 versions of the Prairie but really only wanted to build one. I have some custom rods ordered with Benn (Zephyr) for this, so it will probably stay and MAYBE a standard will also be built....maybe in BR black as pictured, maybe not? Link to size album which I thoroughly intend to keep updating as and when, and start putting pics into from past builds also for size ref: https://www.flickr.c...57644126223681/ I hope this is of some interest and or use to some here, as its not something I see anywhere within our community and whilst I know that not everyone is out to try and replicate the scale as best possible, some are and this type of stuff can be valuable to them. I also wonder if this maybe a thread that others could contribute to with like for like comparison pics? Just a thought for exploring potential :) Carl
