DrJimbo

Eurobricks Vassals
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About DrJimbo

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    Technic
  • Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?
    42110 LandRover

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    Ireland

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  1. I received a few parts that looked interesting: hard shocks, long LAs, black friction half-pins, and also the set of 8 LED lights. The lights are naked LEDs that don't lock into a stud hole or any other element. They are small enough to fit through a pinhole or axle hole. The wires are super-thin, and I didn't want to pinch them. I came up with a few options, I'm sure there are more. They can be secured in a boat stud with a 1x1 piece, leaving room for the wire: This allows lamps to be built in the lego style, with a bit of a gap to any backing behind the clear piece. Wires can be threaded neatly. The wires also fit past an axle in a pinhole: A few options, not sure if it can be done at less that 2 studs deep: Looking forward to putting these into a build:
  2. Finally built this. I got a v1 copy at a good price, built it largely to the v2 instructions. I found the build a bit underwhelming, to be honest. Less good aspects - many of these well discussed: axle clearance is poor, speed is slow, phone interface not as good as a physical controller. The v2 updates to keep the doors and bonnet closed do have an inelegant, bolted-on feel. Without stickers, the colours are mostly bland. I often feel that some cosmetic details on these models are off in a way that would be easy to get better. For instance, the use of multiple colours in the diagonal beam on this, when all parts are commonly available in black; the nozzles on the fire extinguishers are prone to breaking off; the extinguishers are too big and badly placed; the exhaust is unsecured; rear lights are prone to breaking off; the fake fuel tanks are clumsily secured at the back. Most irritating - the bed of this truck is ridiculous - the bed not filled, and the sides too low to hold anything. I made some cosmetic fixes: The good: the model does climb remarkably well, and is a good parts pack for me, for control +, planetary hubs, new diffs, etc. I did not realise the green is the same as 24hr race car - good to have a few more parts in this colour.
  3. IIRC, I put in a V6 using standard Lego pistons when building this without too much difficulty. There was a bit of shenanigans to get the input for the drivetrain to mesh well. My impression is that the standard Lego cylinders are a bit too large to be realistic at this scale. The 1 stud/axle scale used here may be close to the true cylinder scale, but exposed in the ‘fake engine’ used here it feels / looks too small to me. Using standard Lego cylinders fills up the engine compartment in a way that is aesthetically pleasing, to me at least.
  4. Has anyone got their hands on these yet:? https://decadastore.com/products/1-with-8-lamp-groups-jv3046?variant=39666233999448 basically a bunch of 8 LEDs ending in what looks like a stud. Looks like great potential for making neat headlight clusters or light bars.
  5. Not exactly a bargain, but chuffed to get 42129 for €180. Seems to have been the last one in the country in from Smyths.
  6. This fabulous B model of the Bugatti has all those features: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-63528/Porsche96/audi-r8-spyder-42083-b-model/#details
  7. That's a nice mod, I added it. This is a great set. Really good lego designer level of mechanics. Lots of functions to fiddle with. I will have to rebuild the Mack to give it something meaningful to tow. Very sturdy - the flip flop beams really supplement frames to allow rigid building. My first experience of the new pneumatic switches - nice and discreet in this style of model. Most of my tweaks are minor colour changes. I tried to make all the lbg behind the cab dbg, it doesn't pop out so much from the dark blue. Small panels above cab to white - the original lbg makes no sense. Also the 15L flip flop below the light bar to white. While still very multicoloured, the different colours are largely confined to zones of the build.
  8. I finally bought an built this recently - went straight to @jb70's pimped version, as always now. My impressions - it is really big, nice lines, best use of flex axles I have experienced (by this I mean they flow well with panels, are well-secured, and end in the right place). I do find it odd that in a set that includes black as well as red 2- and 4-axles (so recognising that the red stands out visually in certain places, and that the builder can manage the difference) that there remain places where the red versions peep out in the finished car. Why not provide more black ones for e.g. the hinge of the bonnet/hood? I am not an anti-blue pin obsessive, but I find this - well inconsistent. And use the grey axle-pin connectors rather than red as well. So it looks lovely, and the functions all work well - doors, spoiler, gears & engines. It is definitely the best of the Lego 1:8 supercars. And yet it is all slightly ... unsatisfying. Maybe I have too much lego, or I just need to make some function-filled MOC. Anyhow, I am in awe of the technical improvements to the gear box, HOG, etc. There is one outrageously lazily-made bit that I want to share my improvement of.... drumroll... the luggage! The stock version has gaps at the sides and bottom - I can't imagine how the bottom was deemed ok. Here is my pimping contribution, all 100% legal, I would suggest:
  9. Mods may well impact the rebuildability. @jb70's pimp up my Porsche mods definitely made it more attractive to rebuild 42056, and did not disappoint (gear indicator a particular highlight). On the other hand, I built the Bugatti and the LandRover fully pimped from the start (and will do with the Sian shortly). Meaning there is less incentive to tear down and rebuild, since I know the brains trust here has already made them as good as they can realistically be.
  10. Top sets to build - having come out of dark ages with 42030: 42043 - The Arocs is great. The modularity has never been equalled, and there is a bit of almost everything in there. 42053 - The Volvo is an almost pure pneumatic set - I remember thinking 'where are the gears and axles?' - that is really rewarding 42054 - Claas Xerion - there is so much going on in this set, linkages going to and fro, crammed in to a fine-looking model. 42055 - BWE is so different from anything else, the scale is nuts and it is also lots of fun when built. 42056 - Porsche. Sure we have wave selectors now, and lots on here build sophisticated gearboxes, but building the flappy-paddle shifter and gearbox for the first time was a real eye-opener for the capability of Technic. Will we ever see 4 consecutive sets like this run (42053-42056) again? - really amazingly consistent quality. Anything after this I have not built more than once, that may say something about the enjoyment of the build process. I can see myself revisiting 42069, 42078, 42107 as particularly enjoyable build processes. And of course, @brunojj1's Italian supercar - now that's a great build experience!
  11. Ooh, I have not seen those. That would be an improvement. Only remaining minor issue is that care is needed not to insert the pin too far onto the bar, to avoid clutching onto the radar dish.
  12. Finally got this set - agree that it is great value. A few people commenting about the rotating propeller guards - I agree it is not ideal, but this is lego, so I had a go at modding it. The challenge is to get the rotation through the hole in the radar dish, without getting in the way of securing it via studs. My solution is probably not 100% up to standard for official instructions, but works well: Replace the axle on the black gear with a non-friction axle-pin connector: This little build offsets by half a unit vertically and horizontally. (High contrast version in these pics to make it clear): this goes on as before (mostly black version) Top 2 studs of the radar dish go into the part 32291: Here's the good bit. Black 4L bar goes through the radar dish hole and inserts into the 2L non-friction pin-axle connector. This transmits rotation past the static radar dish. There is just enough room due to the shape of 32291. Add the prop on a 1L pin with stud. This I am not thrilled about, since that pin is non-friction with respect to the prop, although it does spin it. With a 5L bar, you could use a black 2L pin (which would stick out the back). 'But wait!' I hear you say. 'You have a one small panel on each side that is not secured'. Strategic placement of red/green lights keeps them from flopping around: Works nicely: https://i.imgur.com/6sCYmMI.mp4
  13. All this talk is making me think I should rebuild my 42053, which is a super set. And that there may be little point in getting this one if it is pretty similar. For those that didn’t get 42053, if this is as well implemented, could be a great buy (although seems pricey, I got a good discount in the Volvo). A 4-claw grabber could be tricky to implement with pneumatics, may end up manual, like 42042, which would be less appealing.
  14. Axle connectors have a wider and a narrower end. And they have 2 flat and 2 curved sides. For a smooth appearance, you want to join like to like.