Neophyte_brickie

Starting to think about modding this set. @JabbaTheHatt replaced the artoo minifig with an led key chain version that has a 3 stud diameter dome (I think); does anyone know if other iterations of R2-D2 key chains are the same size as the led ones? Specifically, the version that has a part number of 853470? I can't seem to find any information about the size of this particular variant. Also, how difficult is it to remove the metal bit that connects the chain to the top of the head?

@Johbarr Do you mean this? (back on page 41 of this thread?) I had removed the link to the instructions to save space in my drop box, but have restored it here: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/q64hfhvqu4njitdhwzvtg/btwn_mandibles_mf_mod_2.pdf?rlkey=zomvdcn45k6mpm8cocvgrwdtp&dl=0

My four latest acquisitions, with the most recent first: 75351 Princess Leia (Boushh) Helmet 75308 R2-D2 75331 UCS Razor Crest 75355 UCS X Wing (with the May 4th bonuses - Death Star 2 and X Wing polybag) All were purchased substantially below RRP - combination of Lego VIP points, May 4 promo, and retail on-sale. The top 3 are yet to be built!

I seem to recall that someone calculated the correct scale for R2's dome based on the size of the set, and from memory the canonically accurate size is something like 2.5 stud diameter. Obviously impossible in Lego, but the point is 2x2 is no less accurate than 3x3. I agree though, slightly too large is probably going to look better than slightly too small.

This is amazing - fantastic work!

That looks like it! Thanks.

@Brickdoctor, what part have you used for the tip of the laser cannons? It looks like a different part than the 1 x 1 cone that's shown in your 'exploded' render. Beautiful moc, btw!

Ooooh - are you able to elaborate on how you achieved this wondrous feat???? I'm sure I wouldn't be the only one interested!

I've done some more playing around in Stud.io, and can confirm that the docking ring design I came up with just fits on the docking ring base, but in all honesty I think it will look too big. Certainly requires replacement of the modified bricks with clips, as there is no room for the 4 hose nozzles around the outside of the ring: Untitled by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr In the above photo I've tried to make the base plate roughly to the same scale as in the model, and you can see the docking ring is just enormous in comparison. So I've redesigned the same concept as an 8-sided, rather than 10-sided, structure, which required reworking the internals as well: Untitled by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr This brings the outer diameter of the docking ring down to approximately that of the Marshal Banana solution, which is only slightly larger than the stock standard docking ring on the original set. The drawback of the design is that the gaps between the wedge plates in the docking ring wall are now larger, and the overall structure looks less round. If anyone is interested, here is a link to the Studio file for the 8 sided design: https://www.dropbox.com/s/vsz1f7nmjuztno9/Docking_Ring_Novel_v3.io?dl=0 Incidentally, as far as I can tell studying the Studio models, I suspect the lack of attachment between the docking ring outer structure and the internals isn't really a problem - the link chain structure of the outer ring seems to get sandwiched fairly firmly in place between the internal structure and the base plate.

I sure do - have fun with it: https://www.dropbox.com/s/yk1i5xmjx8d6ukc/New_Docking_ring_4.io?dl=0 Please note that the outer part of the docking ring and the inner part are not physically connected in this Studio file.

Reposting the above excerpt from a previous post to clarify the modifications to the structure to which the docking ring attaches. You can clearly see the tiles that I talk about removing in my last post. If you leave the tiles in place you need a 2x2 brick to attach to the underside of the Marshal Banana docking ring (as seen in the photo). If you remove the tiles, you can just stack a couple of 2x2 plates and use that to attach the docking ring (as shown in my instructions linked in the previous post). Also note the adjustment to the position of the 1x1 brick with clip - otherwise the hose nozzles get in the way of the 10x10 inverted dish.

For those that might be interested, I’ve created build instructions for the original Marshal Banana docking ring and my preferred mod of it that makes it a little closer in appearance to the actual movie prop; the links are below: https://www.dropbox.com/s/oz1a4bmbeu4wkpo/Docking Ring Marshal Banana.pdf?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/hzblt2ntygjyoiu/Docking Ring MB Neophyte Brickie mod.pdf?dl=0 Each set of instructions includes a ‘bill of materials’ at the end (ie a parts manifest). Note the instructions DO NOT include the 16 3x1 tiles that attach around the outside of the link tread ring, as this type of connection is not recognized in Studio. Also note the bill of materials is for one docking ring - obviously you’ll need to double if you want to change both docking rings. Also note there are slight modifications required to the hexagonal base construction to which the docking ring itself is attached - as detailed earlier in this thread. The version I’ve made instructions for includes the additional 10x10 inverted radar dish in dark bluish grey; if you build this version, I recommend removing the 6 1x2 lbg tiles and the 2 3x4 modified tiles with 4 centre studs from the hexagonal base, so that the docking ring sits flush on the base. If you don’t want to include the dbg 10x10 dish, you can leave the aforementioned tiles in situ and use a standard 2x2 brick (or 3 stacked 2x2 plates) to attach the docking ring to the hexagonal base. Hope that’s clear.

It’s just occurred to me that the above problem is probably not fatal; I suspect the flexibility of the link chain, and the fact that the attachment points for the round corner plates are only at the two opposite points of the docking ring, might allow the gap to be eliminated. The trade-off would be that the docking ring would be forced into a slightly ovoid, rather than circular shape.

Your idea is a really ingenious use of the link treads to achieve a sloped docking ring wall. I agree the diameter of the structure is just a little too small. It was my dissatisfaction with the gaps between the outer tiles in the concepts that used 2x4 tiles for the outer walls that sparked the idea to use wedge plates underneath them. Unfortunately it doesn't get rid of the gaps entirely, and I'm not entirely convinced that the overall look is right. The other caveat I should mention is that I haven't really tested the size of my latest concept against the part of the ship it is meant to attach to - it's possible it might be too big. I posted it here not because I think I will adopt it myself, but to inject some novel ideas into the discussion - see if someone else wants to run with it and improve it. It's been fun playing around with different ideas and solving the challenge of how the Marshal Banana docking ring is put together, but to be honest it's also eaten up too much of my time; I think I've gone far enough down the rabbit hole for now!

Here's another idea I've been working on for the docking rings. The idea developed from the docking rings on Flickr user Flutdisque's Millennium Falcon moc that I posted about previously, and the initial concepts based upon it by @Vouatch. It utilises the large Technic chain link part (Bricklink part no. bb0076 - which seems to have ceased production in 1981!) I figured out a way to make the wall of the docking ring sloped, and have incorporated my design for the internal detail based on four 4x4 round corner plates, with some additional tweaks. The photos are all Studio renders, as I don't actually have the parts to build it! I've struck a problem with it that I can't seem to solve, and am hoping you creative people might have some ideas! First, the details of the outer wall construction: New_Docking_ring_9 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr New_Docking_ring_8 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr New_Docking_ring_7 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr New_Docking_ring_6 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr Complete with internal structure: New_Docking_ring_v2_6 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr Profile shot: New_Docking_ring_5 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr And of course the obligatory comparison shot: IMG_0319 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr This is what the underside looks like: New_Docking_ring_v2_5 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr which is where the problem arises. The connection to the ship is via the internal structure, but I can't figure out how to connect the outer structure to the internals. I thought I had an obvious solution, replacing a couple of the 1x2 tiles with 1x2 - 2x2 brackets, like so: New_Docking_ring_v2_3 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr but you will see the problem once the 4x4 round corner plates (or in this case, 4x8 round corner double plates) are added: New_Docking_ring_v2_4 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr Anyway, happy for any and all thoughts and suggestions, and of course feel free to use the designs if you want.

Could it be the cover of the under-floor smuggling compartment in the engine room (the 'kiss' room - where the hyperdrive lives)?

The answer is - I don't think it would work. The connecting part of the link treads and the older style large technic link chains (that incorporate a couple of studs) are similar in the way they connect but different in size. Interestingly there is also another part just called a technic link chain that does connect to the link tread, but I can't see a way you would connect a tile or any other lego part to it - it looks like just the connecting portion of the link tread (ie the link tread minus the tread part).

I wouldn’t recommend you do this; I strongly suspect the completed model will be way too heavy and the box will be deformed. Maybe if you hide some kind of reinforcement within the box? But it would have to be very strong and rigid.

I honestly don’t know, I don’t have access to the the other black technic links, but it’s a good thought and it should be possible to use Studio to answer that question. I agree with you, to an extent - the outer wall of the MB docking ring doesn’t look very true-to-life. If you could somehow cover every link tread with tiles rather than every second one it would be better. BUT there will always be compromises when it comes to creating something in Lego, it comes down to how much compromise you can accept. I like the MB design because it achieves a docking ring structure that (a) is close to perfectly round (I guess technically a 32 sided polygon, but I’m not going to sweat it); (b) has a continuous slope to the docking ring wall (ie is wider at the base than at the top, without needing to use a stepped construction); and (c) is structurally very stable. I’ve not seen any other solution presented that achieves all 3 of those aims. In doing so, it compromises heavily on accuracy of appearance, but then there’s something about the MB design that just looks very nice anyway (admittedly a subjective value judgement). Having said that, I think it just doesn’t look as good without the 4x4 round corner macaroni tiles, even though the inclusion of these is even more of a departure from the real thing and provides less flexibility in getting the internals to look accurate. So I think at the moment my preference is a sort of hybrid solution that uses the MB design with the macaroni tiles, and my modified design for the internals using the 3L bars, as appears in an earlier post of mine on this page.

Since you asked, @Vouatch: IMG_0316 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr IMG_0688 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr IMG_0694 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr I'm undecided. If possible I'd like to somehow hide the 1x1 round plates on the left and right edges. It does look very similar to the model, but without the macaroni tiles there is something unfinished about the overall appearance. Unfortunately it seems none of the 1x1 modified plates or tiles with clips are available in dark tan, so I would probably go with light bluish grey for those. Also, bucket handles in light bluish grey seem to be a rarity, and very expensive, so I'll probably have to leave those as dark tan.

If I understand you correctly, you are suggesting to omit the 4x4 round corner macaroni tiles? I had actually thought of that and even mocked up a version without those tiles a couple of weeks ago in Studio, but I didn't like the look of it. I might have another play, but I think the problem is that the edge of the docking ring ends up looking too discontinuous. The layer of macaroni tiles also gives the whole structure some height; the docking ring wall tends to look a bit shallow without them. Your second suggestion - do I have this right (building from bottom to top) - is to keep the 4x4 round corner plates as the base, then a single layer of 1x1 round plates around the circumference, then the 4x4 round corner macaroni tiles? I haven't tried it, but I think the problem with that is that you will lose the nice slope in the docking ring wall, since the diameter of the circle created by the macaroni tiles will be the same as the diameter of the circle created by the 4x4 round corner plates. This will produce uniform tension along the length of each link tread and the chain of link treads will sit completely perpendicular to the base. The genius of the original MB design is that there is a variation of tension along the length of the link tread elements - greatest where they contact the 4x4 round corner plates and less where they contact the 1x1 round plates, and that induces the ring of link treads to taper from the base of the structure toward the top. When I get time I hope to post an update with build instructions and a parts list.

So I'm trying to get as close as possible to 'the real thing' using the Marshal Banana design. Would be interested in your thoughts on these: I plan to change the bucket handles to light bluish grey, and the dark bluish grey 1 x1 plates with clip (holding the 3L bars / handlebars) to dark tan, but will need to purchase them in those colours. I'm leaning toward the version with the 3L bars - the straight lines and the fact they are recessed further into the docking ring gives a more accurate appearance imo. It occurs to me I could also swap out a couple of the light bluish grey 3 x 1 tiles around the outside of the docking ring for dark bluish grey. You can't see it in those photos but I've also incorporated some red accents, copied from @Frenk512's docking ring design, as posted by @ClassicLook:

The above solution also makes the top layer of 1x1 round plates unnecessary - they can be replaced with standard 2x1 plates if desired.

UPDATE - Marshal Banana Docking Ring improvement I feel rather stupid, but pleased to report that I've cracked it! I was so close before, but that unorthodox technique I came up with in my earlier post is entirely unnecessary - the MB Docking Ring can be achieved perfectly without the hose nozzles. The solution is to shift the chain of link treads down so that the upper 'rail' of the link treads sits adjacent to the middle layer (rather than the upper layer) of 1x1 round plates; in that way the lower rail of the link treads is level with the 4x4 round corner plates. This forces the chain of link treads into a perfect circle of exactly the right diameter. It's a tight fit, but the links hold - and by happy coincidence, the tension in the ring introduces a natural slope to the link treads - and this allows the 3x1 tiles to attach around the outside of the ring at pretty much the perfect angle. Despite the tension, the ring of link treads is in no danger of slipping - the ridges formed by stacking the 1x1 round plates hold it firmly in place. Furthermore, the gap that was there previously between the base of the link tread ring and the 10x10 inverted dish is eliminated. The photos below demonstrate the improved version. I'm finally completely happy with the overall construction, but may still further tweak the design of the docking ring internals. IMG_0632 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr IMG_0630 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr IMG_0633 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr IMG_0619 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr IMG_0636 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr IMG_0637 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr

That is very quick work! I posted a query to Flickr user Flutdisq on their design, and they confirmed that they used BrickLink part no. bb0076 as the link, so you are spot on. I think you are right, there must be a layer of 2x3 plates under the tiles. I notice you reduced your design from 14 tiles around to 12; Flutdisq’s model has 13, but 12 already seems to have a lot of spare room around the internals - it seems like 13 would be too many but it looks right in Flutdisq’s photos?