NoEXIST

It has some advantages even with low power, but yeah the biggest point is that it won't be PF compatible anymore.

That was very similar to a buwizz design. Standard pins were placed to touch PF connectors. I will be able to to show the part maybe tomorrow. However I don't really think this is the best way of connection for increasing power. JST instead of PF would be all the way better:)

You probably can try to print it right with those 3d models, however pcb designing is the whole other world where the most important would be dimensions and pin placement in general

I do have a buwizz so I can try to make a part that will help with transition between jst and PF connectors Glad to hear people are still interested. I'm alright but I was kinda inactive with this project, I'm busy studying. However I do have some plans to try with new versions of RCDeck. Right now I'm waiting for another ESC option. Previous ones didn't fit requirements. @FriedlS Nice way to give your buwizz a new live:) During this time I got some more CAD and 3D printing skills to improve quality:)

Most of the motors still have less current draw than a buggy motor, but the point was to load it more than 4 buggy motors might do. Interesting for me is that it works fine with this amount of motors, but not with 4 cada buggy motors. Also, all of these ports are still synchronised. Technically it's one port powered by a single ESC

Trying to figure out if there's a problem with new version of RCDeck unit or with my 4 cada buggy motors. (there's a throttle delay and similar things) During previous days I built the RCDeck and exchanged whole electronic units trying to find the issue. Seems like it was not the components issue. Trying to find more arguments to say that's the motors fault and move on! With all my remaining motors it seems to work fine. But I'm still not sure

Working on connections layout and trying to build one.

I added some instructions about first samples in the beginning of the first post in this topic.

Well, actually more I'm hanging around this topic, more I understand this is not really a right way. Now as I was testing new components and it was simply easier to throw everything in a car:) Seems like this topic is showing me maturing into a real RC hobby grade electronics:) In my opinion separate housings are just a way to go!

Yeah, those esc's are also usually being described differently, even through it's the same damn thing. Now I have this one to thinker about. This one is clearly rated for 4s so we do have a clearance. Although it's rated 10A It was working with 4 buggy motors without a problem. No matter how are you going on throttle. You can pretty much do whatever you want with your throttle! However it has a weak BEC circuit which cannot handle a geekservo as it is(it can provide 0,5A). So because PU isn't THAT useful thing for such type of bricks I'm about to leave it without one. But instead of it, there's going to be a dedicated UBEC controller (it's continuous current is scheduled to 1,5A which is probably enough for typical 1/10 scale servo) allowing you use something more than only geekservo. For example more torque or speed rc servo. All of these in a new body:) With 4 full size PF ports and more convenient build. Port and ESC arrangement required a little bit different body... so it's completely new. Hoping for a better cable management too!

This is actually a nice idea. Definitely going to so this as soon as possible!

Time will show us how it goes

Every of them were tested, at least one 3s pack with my skyline. I don't know if my driving style is that comfy for the electronics pr there's a different reason. In your case there probably will be a shipping. And then there's a risk of burning an ESC with not careful enough driving. (I ran exact your one with 3s 5000mah 65c battery, I have no clue how the hell it can handle this, but die using 2L motors in other case) The only thing I wasn't playing around is 2s or 3s. Always 3s and no problems. From this judgement comes out the problem-free use of 2S. Surprisingly, all the damaged bricks were damaged from use with similar 3S batteries. As far as I know you wanted to use it with 2s, maybe yours is safe? I got a sample, but as I said I can't just put it inside an actual version of the brick

So far yours was the only one with external receiver. Other units have this done inside. However I have to say you customers found a flaw I didn't find by myself during my testing. Seems it need a better ESC for those PF ports, otherwise it can be burned quite easily. I did not found any alternatives that can be used with a current RCDeck body, so I'm thinking of recalling it back. I don't know how much time will it take to redesign it. P.S. Customers, please contact me if you already had bad experiences. We'll try to solve that in some way. Sorry for wasted time...

Really nice little buggy!

You're defending first to post about them:) Thanks for kind words!

They don't break the circuit, so they don't need to handle that much current I mean all the components inside RCDeck now are hand soldered together, the pcb I was talking about isn't really a big deal, it's just a base for all the connections

But for stock switches theres a problem that they are also almost 2 stud high or 1 stud wide. Going for smaller switch leads to a different problem, as we want to break the circuit, switch could not handle all the current going from battery to esc Something like that. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJRyh9z I am a little bit jealous to this thing as I cant make such a nice handmade electronics😅 I would say there's only one extra wire compared to original rcd.

Mine was in 1/10 brushless rc. I raced it maybe in 12 o'clock (discharged maybe to 3,5v per cell) and that midnight buzzer was screaming. Maybe components we are using have less battery draw in this conditions, but now I wont leave it like that:) Original RCDeck uses circuit breacking switch, but I still rather disconnect it This is actually a great idea, I would try this! Also you do not need to reduce studs, 2 of them can stay

Definitely not for leaving a battery inside for a long time. I accidentally left my bigger battery plugged in (and fortunately with buzzer), buzzer woke me up midnight because battery were slowly coming to a dead voltage for lipo Those were my design, there's almost nothing to see. I was a key to make pin mounts more handy:) And this esc uses the same, but I cut off everything I didn't need. Actually just did build it today and so far it's not tested. Also it has only 5A esc because I don't have 30A esc at the moment:)

There is an ESC and little PCB for PF pins, let's say it's already full:) for your proper understanding, this thing is 2x4x4 studs. I didn't manage to fit any technic pin connections in there, even half pin. The way out were system pins. I came out with an idea that I don't like those. Normally they are turning off the esc, but they don't break the circuit, so disconnecting the battery is simply safer. Also not sure where to put one, there's no space for switch sticking out (whole top surface is used by pf ports) P.S. I am not talking about lack of space inside:) While building those I understood that there are available 2in1 receivers/esc's. Simply that's the thing we want, but we need to make a lego case for it. As soon as I try to fit completely separate components inside RCDeck - it unfortunately won't be any smaller than my finished 4ch RCDeck. Next thing to do is to design a case with lego connections for a receiver. But the case can't be universal as all receivers are different. Actually separate components in your model give you infinite flexibility, but as I said - not that user friendly. IMO this way there can be 2 products - user friendly all in one(almost) - flexible and cheap, but not that user friendly

Just playing around in my free time. This could be something less user friendly for people not familiar with RC at all. Basically an ESC with lego mounts I could say it's the most universal way of putting hobby grade components in lego

At this point it’s starting to get closer to 3D printed RC projects. Which is great. But in that case I would rather try more “RC looking” arrangements

Any Dumborc transmitter will work

Long time without updates… But now first Decks are getting ready to be shipped